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Unread 08-23-2013, 02:50 PM   #16
Jeepnovice
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Finally got that done changed valve and put lines in. the whole time it was pretty much making sure flares did not cross thread bc old valve was. Now I just gotta tighten the dogleg cause its connection is leaking! But I had to take a brake!

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Unread 08-23-2013, 06:11 PM   #17
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But I had to take a brake!
It takes a sense of humor to work on the Heeps.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 06:54 AM   #18
Jeepnovice
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Originally Posted by CCKen

It takes a sense of humor to work on the Heeps.
Yea I had to laugh at my self. But it's done! Then I thought maybe I should replace the driver side metal line just so it s all done. So maybe I'm not done!
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Unread 08-24-2013, 10:59 AM   #19
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Yea I had to laugh at my self. But it's done! Then I thought maybe I should replace the driver side metal line just so it s all done. So maybe I'm not done!
a Couple of years ago I changed the long line back to the rear axle, the dogleg at the proportioning valve, the hose/vent block, both lines that go from the block to the rear wheel cylinders, and the wheel cylinders. All these items were ate up with rust.

After I pulled my engine out I replaced the long line the goes from the proportioning valve to the right brake, and the short line that goes to the left brake. Changed the hoses that hook up to these lines and go to the calipers. These items were ate up with rust as well.

Replaced the brake master cylinder because it was puking brake fluid out the back, and replaced the brake power booster because the brake fluid ate the paint off it and it turned into a ball of rust.
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #20
Jeepnovice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCKen

a Couple of years ago I changed the long line back to the rear axle, the dogleg at the proportioning valve, the hose/vent block, both lines that go from the block to the rear wheel cylinders, and the wheel cylinders. All these items were ate up with rust.

After I pulled my engine out I replaced the long line the goes from the proportioning valve to the right brake, and the short line that goes to the left brake. Changed the hoses that hook up to these lines and go to the calipers. These items were ate up with rust as well.

Replaced the brake master cylinder because it was puking brake fluid out the back, and replaced the brake power booster because the brake fluid ate the paint off it and it turned into a ball of rust.
Do u think it ll be better to replace them all? That passenger side front looks intimidating. When I was looking at the bleeders today I noticed rear metal ones are in pretty bad shape.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 06:54 AM   #21
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Do u think it ll be better to replace them all? That passenger side front looks intimidating. When I was looking at the bleeders today I noticed rear metal ones are in pretty bad shape.
The line that runs along the firewall to the passenger side would be a bugger to change with the engine installed. It could be done if absolutly required. I replaced mine with the engne removed for rebuild so it wasn't that difficult to do. Removing the valve cover and cutting cable ties on the harness looms so they could be moved out of the way would help. The new line is to be fed from the proportioning valve side towards the passenger side. Study what it looks like currently and you'll see what needs to come out of the way.

The two brake lines at the rear axle are easy to change, with one exception; the flare nuts at the brake cylinders may be frozen in place and would require replacing the wheel cylinders as well.

I replaced mine using OEM tubes because they had stone guard wraps. You could bend new lines to match the old lines but they wouldn't have the stone guards (if that's not an issue with you). You would measure the overall length of the old lines and get two sections of prefab lines from NAPA then bend to match the old line.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 04:37 PM   #22
Jeepnovice
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Originally Posted by CCKen

The line that runs along the firewall to the passenger side would be a bugger to change with the engine installed. It could be done if absolutly required. I replaced mine with the engne removed for rebuild so it wasn't that difficult to do. Removing the valve cover and cutting cable ties on the harness looms so they could be moved out of the way would help. The new line is to be fed from the proportioning valve side towards the passenger side. Study what it looks like currently and you'll see what needs to come out of the way.

The two brake lines at the rear axle are easy to change, with one exception; the flare nuts at the brake cylinders may be frozen in place and would require replacing the wheel cylinders as well.

I replaced mine using OEM tubes because they had stone guard wraps. You could bend new lines to match the old lines but they wouldn't have the stone guards (if that's not an issue with you). You would measure the overall length of the old lines and get two sections of prefab lines from NAPA then bend to match the old line.
I'm thinking I ll change the ones at rear axle and wait till totally necessary to do front. What about plastic connection that goes to axle? That looks so rusted its intimidating!
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Unread 08-27-2013, 06:02 AM   #23
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I'm thinking I ll change the ones at rear axle and wait till totally necessary to do front. What about plastic connection that goes to axle? That looks so rusted its intimidating!
What plastic connection?

Is this it...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3349&ppt=C0066

If this is what you're talking about, the only thing that's a PITA is getting the the clip that holds the hose end on to its support bracket out, then the new one in. The new clip usually isn't the same size as the original. The Chinese haven't quite figured out how to duplicate parts exactly.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 09:13 AM   #24
Jeepnovice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCKen

What plastic connection?

Is this it...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3349&ppt=C0066

If this is what you're talking about, the only thing that's a PITA is getting the the clip that holds the hose end on to its support bracket out, then the new one in. The new clip usually isn't the same size as the original. The Chinese haven't quite figured out how to duplicate parts exactly.
I couldn't see the link. This brake lines are killing my patience now rear of valve flare is gushing out fluid. I noticed while bleeding brakes.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #25
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Luckily it was just loose! It's nice to have a second set of eyes when doing this. Now I can feel some pressure on brake after bleeding far rear tomorrow I ll do rest n hope for the best I'm hoping to have it on the road by this weekend!
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Unread 08-31-2013, 12:59 PM   #26
Jeepnovice
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Originally Posted by Jeepnovice
Luckily it was just loose! It's nice to have a second set of eyes when doing this. Now I can feel some pressure on brake after bleeding far rear tomorrow I ll do rest n hope for the best I'm hoping to have it on the road by this weekend!
Brakes are all bled except for driver side front I got lazy. It brakes but they feel rough. I'm gonna start changing rear brakes tonight and see if it feels better or should I do front first?
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Unread 09-03-2013, 07:15 PM   #27
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Brakes are all bled except for driver side front I got lazy. It brakes but they feel rough. I'm gonna start changing rear brakes tonight and see if it feels better or should I do front first?
This should get interesting.

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Unread 09-04-2013, 08:54 AM   #28
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Unread 09-05-2013, 10:52 AM   #29
Jeepnovice
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Originally Posted by anony
I had the same problem with the rear axle hard lines. To install homemade lines (with armor installed) A connection needed to be made either to the junction block or wheel cylinders then the line stretched to the opposite connection point.

If making your own there is one place online, that sells spools armor for restoration & older vehicles for a reasonable price ... pre-made exact fit lines are more expensive and you won't be able to make the lines a little longer but they do come with the armor already installed.

Also the nuts used on the old rusted OE lines were longer ... they come in two versions, long and short, regular aftermarkets are usually the shorter nuts, less area for wrench contact. You usually need to specifically order the longer version to match the OEs.
Doing lines was such a pain and so is doing drum brakes lol
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Unread 09-08-2013, 11:33 PM   #30
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