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#1 | |
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Registered User
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brake light on, pads good
I picked up this 99' Cherokee sport 4.0 auto for a winter beater and I'm fixing it up slowly. So one issue i just saw that I'm working on is the brake light is on. I check the front pads and they look like they were just changed. I also checked the fluid in the reservoir and that is also good.
What else could cause the brake light to be on? any sensors?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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two things will turn it on, first is the parking brake switch, the other is a hydraulic switch in the proportioning valve
disconnect the wire from the switch on the valve, if the light goes out then you have a hydraulic problem. if it doesn't go out, the parking brake switch is on |
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#3 |
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Thanks for such a fast response, I'll check it out tomorrow if its not snowing.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Had to fix a couple other things, but while i was under the hood i took off the plug that is proportion valve and the light went off. So I'm going to go ahead and assume its a "hydraulic problem".
The peddle feels fine, but i read around it could be uneven pressure so I guess a start would be to bleed the brakes. but i also should check the rear shoes. |
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#5 |
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could be that the switch is bad , ive only had mine come on when there is air in the system so bleed them and see what happens. or you jack the back up and put it in gear and see how it stops
__________________
7" long arm lift, HNT sye , herculined inside, bush wacker fender flares now geared and locked !!! 62 mm bored throttle body's fs - pm |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
THE FIX: Have an assistant sit in the vehicle with the key "ON" so the brake light is illuminated. Open a bleeder on the OPPOSITE part of the brake system while someone applies SUBSTANTIAL pedal pressure. The key is to ONLY open the bleeder far enough to cause the light to go out, and NOT far enough to create a pressure imbalance in the opposite direction, thereby tripping the light switch again.
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AZ-Jeff 1992 XJ 2" lift -- RIP 2000 XJ 3" lift -- Australian Ford Big Brakes up front, rock rails, ZJ rear discs (with WORKING parking brake), C4x4 rear bumper/tire carrier, Hella H4 headlights, IPF driving lights, OEM skid plates, OME springs/shocks, JKS LCA's, JKS Sway Bar links. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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I'll see if i can get the GF to help me this weekend with that. I was driving it really for the first time tonight and thought the rear's were locking up a little hard. Maybe I'm just not used to non-anti lock brakes since i haven't driven the YJ in a while either. But I'll try bleeding it first.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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yeah something is wrong, rear brakes on the xj dont work that good.
__________________
7" long arm lift, HNT sye , herculined inside, bush wacker fender flares now geared and locked !!! 62 mm bored throttle body's fs - pm |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Actually try looking under the dash by the brake pedal for a white box with a pin like switch and a wire on it leading to somewhere i don't know, the brake is supposed to press it when your not using the brakes... keeping the lights off. This is where my issue is, but now i can't figure out how to get that switch back in place.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Thanks I'll take a look, i still have a feeling its a uneven pressure issue discussed above.
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#11 |
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Registered User
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for those of you curios, turns out my wheel cylinder was bad and finally just gave out.
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#12 | |
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The Great White Ghost
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 40° 3'42.36"N 112° 2'16.73"W, Utah
Posts: 4,900
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Quote:
__________________
A big thank you to whomever sponsored my membership!! 1974 CJ-5 258 3spd SOA on 31's [Sold in 1991] 1995 ZJ Limited 5.2 on 31's [Sold in 2009] 1990 XJ Laredo 4.0, nothing special [Sold in 2010] 1955 Willys CJ-5 #12171 [Sold in 2011] 1997 ZJ Limited 5.2 The Great White Ghost 1953 Willys M100 trailer |
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