brake booster adjusting rod - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
bandit88
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brake booster adjusting rod

is there and/or how do you adjust the booster rod for correct proper braking?i adjusted it once before and it caused the brakes to stick and the rotors were glowing hot.put all new complete brakes on my xj (minus booster)and dont want to ruin my brakes.is there a measuerment on the rod or do you adjust it for a pedal depth or something??? hope some one can help


88 xj chief (ex conservation vehicle),4.0,aw4,np231,danas..35-r..30-f ,all new brake components
3 inch lift,flareless,trimmed fenders 31x10x50 maxxis mudders,galaxy 88 export c.b.,102 inch steel whip,dx 1600 linear(sweet sixteen)
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 09:55 AM
XJING
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I dont think there is any adjustment possible on any brake booster/master cylinder rod. The system will adjust itself with a proper bleeding. Good Luck
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 09:57 AM
AZ Jeff
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You are normally not expected to EVER adjust the rod for "proper braking". The rod comes adjusted from the mfr. to the correct length to match up to the appropriate Master Cylinder.

Why do you feel you need to adjust the rod? (What symptoms do you have that makes you think the rod adjustment would improve braking?)

AZ-Jeff
I don't own an XJ any longer, but I still think they are the best of all the Jeep products ever made. My XJ was my favorite vehicle in my 50+ years of driving.
So...I stick around and give advice.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
bandit88
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when i first got it ,my boss at the salvage yard said to adjust it to cure the low pedal.that was a few years ago, but now i have all new brakes and dont want to put them towards excess wear or damage. and i havent adjusted the rod since then, i just want it to be right. the rod does have threads and a end cap so i have no idea

88 xj chief (ex conservation vehicle),4.0,aw4,np231,danas..35-r..30-f ,all new brake components
3 inch lift,flareless,trimmed fenders 31x10x50 maxxis mudders,galaxy 88 export c.b.,102 inch steel whip,dx 1600 linear(sweet sixteen)
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 10:43 AM
asheets934
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I've had to adjust mine. When i first got my 89 i had to take it in slightly because it was making the brakes drag. Your master cylinder is attached to the booster with two bolts, remove them. Pull the master cylinder forward carefully, dont want to break the lines of any of the vac lines in front of it, untill you have it off the bolts and the pushrod. The pushrod should have a end you can get a wrench on, its pretty small like less than 10mm i think. Anyway, grip the shaft with some visegrips and crank that to adjust. Once you see it, its pretty self explanitory. A little turning goes a long way here so you probobly end up pulling the master cylinder off, adjusting the rod, reassembling, testing, then redoing the whole process 2 or 3 times . . .

89 XJ Wagoneer Ltd. 4.0, AW4, NP242. TBM, Cat temporarily gutted *cough*, Removed Air Box Silencer, flat black rattlecan job. Ghetto Fab all around!
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 11:38 AM
XJING
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Excellant, I learned something today. I had no idea that you could "adjust' that, I have my '88 master/booster swapped to a 95 but didn't know it could be adjusted. Mine doesnt need it but its handy to know.
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-09-2006, 12:04 PM
Timo_90xj
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Yep, it sure can be adjusted. As said, normally there is no need because boosters and mc's are sort of like matched pairs. But if you buy them separate, or replace just the other one, there may be a need to do that. It's possible to either have the adjustemnt rod too far out (brakes dragging) or too much in (play on brake pedal).

If you've ever removed your mc it's pretty clear how the adjustment can be done. I think I've got a picture on my home computer, but not here at work.. I can try to remember to post a pic when I get home.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


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***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #8 of 12 Old 02-14-2011, 07:09 PM
apsoto
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Ok, Almost 5 years later, hopefully someone sees this post.

I'm replacing my brake booster and the master cylinder push rod on the original (bad) booster is firmly in place, but I can adjust the rod with my hand.

With all new (remanufactured) one's that I buy the MC push rod rattles around a bit and when I try to adjust the rod the whole unit spins as opposed to the original one where the inner bolt of the rod rotates and the outer sheath stays put.

Has anyone seen similar behavior? I'm wondering since all the 'good' new boosters I look at are the same, maybe it's my original (bad) booster that has the 'bad' or incorrect push rod. Is it safe to just crank down a on the outer sheath with a vise grip and adjust the inner rod in/out? I'm afraid of stripping it because it was so easy to adjust with my fingers on my original booster.

https://picasaweb.google.com/apsoto/...32362721649490
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-10-2011, 10:34 AM
cpjisaac
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I am replacing my brake master and pulled the booster off to get at the pedal push rod-any ideas on how to get the old push rod disconnected?
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-11-2011, 02:16 AM
apsoto
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Here's the diagram from my 97 XJ FSM

https://skitch.com/apsoto/f2nf5/97-x...ge-864-of-1724
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-12-2011, 07:30 AM
cpjisaac
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Thanks-got the rod of the pedal, what about of getting the rod off the booster? My new master came w/ a new rod and rubber seal-concerned that I may make the booster bad if I do not change it correctly.
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-12-2011, 11:56 PM
apsoto
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I'm a 97 XJ and the brake booster is a single unit as far as I know. The rod that connects to the pedal does not come off (as far as I know) and the rod inside the booster unit that pushes in/out of the master cylinder is adjustable but also is not meant to come off.

I did have a problem finding the 'correct' booster when I replaced mine. Even though the 'part' you get at most parts store look correct, I had problems getting the rod inside the booster to adjust correctly. I eventaully had to take in my old booster to show it to the parts guy and had him order various different ones from different manufacturers to find the one that looked the 'closest' to OEM for me.
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