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Unread 06-10-2009, 02:36 PM   #46
pmccoy9876
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Here's a question for you: if you have wheeled it already, do you feel like the extra strength from the truss was necessary, or overkill? I'm about to dive into my own D44 HP build in a week or two here, and only plan on running 37s max at any point (I'll be on 35s for now.) I'm having trouble justifying spending $500 on a truss instead of maybe say $300 on brackets alone.

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Are you insane? Do you have any idea how many slip-and-fall accidents are caused by carelessly discarded banana peels? This is a crime of Vaudevillian proportions and must not be tolerated in a civilized society.
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Unread 06-10-2009, 02:59 PM   #47
ep191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccoy9876 View Post
Here's a question for you: if you have wheeled it already, do you feel like the extra strength from the truss was necessary, or overkill? I'm about to dive into my own D44 HP build in a week or two here, and only plan on running 37s max at any point (I'll be on 35s for now.) I'm having trouble justifying spending $500 on a truss instead of maybe say $300 on brackets alone.
You can build your own truss for less than $500 bucks. It might not be neccesary, but just imo if you are going to go through the trouble swapping an axle you might as well throw some insurance strength in there.
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Unread 06-12-2009, 01:10 PM   #48
Starboard M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccoy9876 View Post
Here's a question for you: if you have wheeled it already, do you feel like the extra strength from the truss was necessary, or overkill? I'm about to dive into my own D44 HP build in a week or two here, and only plan on running 37s max at any point (I'll be on 35s for now.) I'm having trouble justifying spending $500 on a truss instead of maybe say $300 on brackets alone.
It was nice having a "bolt on" truss and brackets, but I also modified them a bit, and it made getting everything in there (trackbar, and steering) a real pain.


I also have not finished hooking up my breather tube since I thoughtfully put the truss over the breather hole, so I need to figure that out.



Truss, not sure. Not many people will be able to bend a D44, especially if it has 1/2'' tubes like mine does. It was a bit heavy, although I wasnt to worried about unsprung weight. At some point I will be cutting all the brackets off and doing a 3 link in the front, and most likely not doing a truss. There are many people who have built front 44s and not used a truss who have not had any issues. It was convenient for me, but as far as if it was worth it..... Not sure.
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Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 06-12-2009, 01:30 PM   #49
foggybottombob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccoy9876 View Post
Here's a question for you: if you have wheeled it already, do you feel like the extra strength from the truss was necessary, or overkill? I'm about to dive into my own D44 HP build in a week or two here, and only plan on running 37s max at any point (I'll be on 35s for now.) I'm having trouble justifying spending $500 on a truss instead of maybe say $300 on brackets alone.
You have to put some kind of truss over the diff housing to have a place to weld on the driver side upper control arm bracket. I just used 4" wide 1/4" flat plate. I think it was $15.
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Unread 06-24-2009, 02:54 PM   #50
Stang5lgt
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Looks good man!
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Unread 07-07-2009, 06:07 PM   #51
pmccoy9876
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So, I finally got around to changing everything from the spindles out on my HP D44, but I've run into a bit of a snag.

When I went to NAPA, I got the rotor from an 80 F-150 (4x4). It's only the rotor, though, there is no hub or anything in the middle. Is it supposed to be a 2-piece assembly, with a removable hub unit, or is it supposed to be a single piece? When I looked at the old hub assembly on the axle right now (a Chevy 8-lug, I believe,) it looks like a 1-piece unit with manual locking hubs. I just figured I'd try and find out before I went back to NAPA and looked like an idiot.

Also, after re-reading the article, you mention F-150 in the original write-up, but say '85 bronco in a later post. I take it the parts for these are interchangable?
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Are you insane? Do you have any idea how many slip-and-fall accidents are caused by carelessly discarded banana peels? This is a crime of Vaudevillian proportions and must not be tolerated in a civilized society.
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Originally Posted by RyanCJ2A View Post
I have no input of any value to this thread but those are awesome.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 08:25 PM   #52
BigPete
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this looks good. just taging this for my bew XJ project that will start at some point in the near future...
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Unread 07-07-2009, 08:56 PM   #53
foggybottombob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccoy9876 View Post
So, I finally got around to changing everything from the spindles out on my HP D44, but I've run into a bit of a snag.

When I went to NAPA, I got the rotor from an 80 F-150 (4x4). It's only the rotor, though, there is no hub or anything in the middle. Is it supposed to be a 2-piece assembly, with a removable hub unit, or is it supposed to be a single piece? When I looked at the old hub assembly on the axle right now (a Chevy 8-lug, I believe,) it looks like a 1-piece unit with manual locking hubs. I just figured I'd try and find out before I went back to NAPA and looked like an idiot.

Also, after re-reading the article, you mention F-150 in the original write-up, but say '85 bronco in a later post. I take it the parts for these are interchangable?
I used '79 F150 hubs and rotors on my chevy flat top dana 44 knuckles. The hubs and rotors are separate parts. You have to press them together.
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Unread 07-08-2009, 01:40 PM   #54
pmccoy9876
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Thanks. I was getting really confused because he kept referring to them as an "assembly," but always showed them as one piece. Ok, I'll see what kind of shape my old hubs are in and see if I could reuse them.
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Originally Posted by MrNate View Post
Are you insane? Do you have any idea how many slip-and-fall accidents are caused by carelessly discarded banana peels? This is a crime of Vaudevillian proportions and must not be tolerated in a civilized society.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanCJ2A View Post
I have no input of any value to this thread but those are awesome.
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Unread 09-30-2009, 07:04 PM   #55
Starboard M
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Alright, so its time for some updates.

Most of this will be comparing what I had with the D30 to the D44.

Wheels
Alright, so when I switched axles, I had to change the bolt pattern. I got some 15x8 alloy wheels with 3.5'' of backspacing. With the D30 I had 15x8 steels with 2.5'' of backspacing.

Weights for both:
Steel at 26.2 lbs per wheel


Alloy at 16.6 lbs per wheel


Difference of 9.6 lbs per wheel. About a 40 lbs weight savings overall. Not bad.

These are the specs on the wheels I got


Gears

Everyone talks about the size difference between a 44 and 30. I knew there would be a difference, but I didnt realize it was going to be this much.
Obviously 44 on the bottom


This is hard to see, but the 44 is on the bottom, with the 30 on top


44 on the left


Dana 30 gears are about 15/16'' wide. This is for 4.88 gears, so Im not sure if that matters or not.


Dana 44 gears are about 1-3/16''. These are 3.55 gears, again, not sure if that matters.


Heights
One of my main concerns for the 44 was how much ground clearance I was going to lose.

These are on a flat garage floor at around 32psi in 35'' tires.
Underneath the diff of the 30: 10-3/4''


Under the 44:10-1/2''


Under the tubes
Dana 30: 14-1/4''


Dana 44:14-1/2''


Under the lower control arms. I wish I had raised the mounts up, but they are heavy enough to take a hit. Oh well.

Dana 30:12-1/2''


Dana 44:about 13''




I gained no lift when I did this swap
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Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
Honestly, its dicks like you that make unnecessary comments via the internet that have no impact what so ever.

Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 09-30-2009, 07:07 PM   #56
Starboard M
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Random "measurements"
My trackbar ended up being 35'' long from bolt to bolt. Not to bad if I do say so myself



How it looked with the D30


And 44



Steering angles for the 30. This isnt quite accurate because there was some spring back, but its fairly close


And 44. Again, some spring back, but close


Wheelbase was 101.5'' before this swap


I ended up moving the axle forward a couple inches to 103.5''


WMS
I believe a stock D30 is around 60.5'' WMS to WMS. My 44 ended up being 61.5''. I think you can widen a 5 lug axle by swapping 8 lug outers onto the axle by about 3''. Im not positive on that, but I know its possible.




Outer tire to outer tire


Dana 30:76''


Dana 44: 74''. I have no idea how that works out. I did loose 2'' of width from backspacing, but I gained about 1'' for width. Same tires, and similar psi.




Rear Drums to 5x5.5

I have Alloy USA (now Factory 10) rear shafts in my XJ 44. They are dual drilled for 5x4.5 and 5x5.5, which is awesome for many reasons.
1. Dont have to buy new axleshafts
2. My dad and I can carry one set of rear shafts as spares. He has a XJ 44 he is building and it will have a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
3. If I for some reason blow my spare tire, and need to borrow a friends, I can convert the rear back to 5x4.5 since most of them have that pattern.

Anyway, I tried to find a machine shop to drill my drums out for the new pattern, but most wanted $100 or more to drill them. I figured what the heck, I can do it. So I bought a set of transfer punches, borrowed my friends drill press, and boom, dual drilled brake drums.


Also note my awesome shackle angle


Random thoughts

My 44 fully dressed minus fluids and steering weighted ~270 lbs. I dont know what a 30 weights, but Im sure its significantly less then that.

At a later date I will do a comparison of disks on a 30 and 44.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
Honestly, its dicks like you that make unnecessary comments via the internet that have no impact what so ever.

Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 09-30-2009, 08:02 PM   #57
pmccoy9876
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How close does your tie-rod come to hitting the springs at full lock? I never got to the D44 this summer, but it's set up for hi-steer with a drag link that runs to the hi-steer instead of the tie-rod, and it will definitely hit the springs with the perches I have unless I change the tie-rod to setup like yours.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrNate View Post
Are you insane? Do you have any idea how many slip-and-fall accidents are caused by carelessly discarded banana peels? This is a crime of Vaudevillian proportions and must not be tolerated in a civilized society.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanCJ2A View Post
I have no input of any value to this thread but those are awesome.
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Unread 09-30-2009, 08:12 PM   #58
Starboard M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmccoy9876 View Post
How close does your tie-rod come to hitting the springs at full lock? I never got to the D44 this summer, but it's set up for hi-steer with a drag link that runs to the hi-steer instead of the tie-rod, and it will definitely hit the springs with the perches I have unless I change the tie-rod to setup like yours.
The steering does not come anywhere close to the coils. The panhard is in front of the coils, and it does come close to those.

I ended up moving the coils back so the leading edge of the coil is level with the front of the axle tube.


I wanted a long panhard, so I had to modify a fair amount of stuff. I could have kept the T&T panhard mount and probably had a lot less effort, but I like to make things as difficult as possible.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
Honestly, its dicks like you that make unnecessary comments via the internet that have no impact what so ever.

Boatsides/Hybrid Cage/Tube Dash== Custom Winch Bumper== Bolt in HP44
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Unread 10-01-2009, 06:31 AM   #59
pmccoy9876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starboard M View Post
but I like to make things as difficult as possible.
haha. So are your spring mounts integrated into the truss, or separate? When I just mocked my spring mounts up on the 44 (mine are from Rusty's offroad) the springs stuck out pretty far over the front of the tubes, plus the hi-steer setup currently on mine puts the drag-link in the front most hole on the arm, and the tie-rod in the rear most hole on the arm, which I think is causing most of my clearance issues. If I switch to a setup like yours where the drag link connects to the tie-rod, I might be ok. Did you fab your tie-rod/drag link, or order it?

Also (I'll have to check this later, since the D44 is in Ohio and I'm in FL) I believe my track bar mount is going to be too low, as it's integrated into the spring perch, but below the perch itself, so I'll probably have to fab one of those as well.

Just trying to get all my stuff sorted out so that I can dive right into it when I go home for Christmas.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrNate View Post
Are you insane? Do you have any idea how many slip-and-fall accidents are caused by carelessly discarded banana peels? This is a crime of Vaudevillian proportions and must not be tolerated in a civilized society.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanCJ2A View Post
I have no input of any value to this thread but those are awesome.
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Unread 10-01-2009, 10:45 AM   #60
foggybottombob
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You might want to look at an 80's grand waggoneer tie rod and drag link. They are similar to the XJ parts but a little longer and stouter.
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