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Old 09-15-2008, 10:31 AM   #1
blacklabel000
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best method to go 6.5in?

so ive got 4.5 OME right now, and i need some more clearance

so i was on ebay earlier and i found a set of RC 2" spacers for the front and 1.5-2" shackles for the back-should i go that rout

or pick up a set of new 6.5 coils and leafs?

the spacers and shackles are 100$ and the coils and leafs are 350+

so what do ya think?

thanks-nick

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Old 09-15-2008, 10:33 AM   #2
1offroadin4x4
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I was in the same place as your are. I put in 1 3/4" pucks and 1 3/4 shackles in the rear. Worked just fine. I later upgraded to the 6" coils up front and left the pucks in. Still drives just fine, flexes good, and no vibes that I can feel. This also kept the jeep level, no more tilt to the front.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #3
freeburg
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go with the spacers and shackles...... what i did....
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:44 AM   #4
JeepinRU
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you might need a new drop pittman arm (considering the size of the one u have now)
and a new trackbar
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:54 AM   #5
blacklabel000
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new track bar yes but ive got the dropped arm already so i should be good there,

so offroadin you have roughly 8 up front and 6.5ish in back? hows that workin for ya because that exaclty what im lookin to do

i need room for my 36s under there
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:10 AM   #6
kg4kzv
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I think your going to need new CAs if yours are not adjustable. Bake lines if you have not changed them out yet. How about a TCD or SYE if you don't have one of these you will SYE being the best. Ditch the drop pitman arm you will need to upgrade the steering.

I have a 6.5 Rusty's with short arms. I think this combo might be contributing to my DW as my arms are at a bad angle. So something you might look at.



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Old 09-15-2008, 11:15 AM   #7
freeburg
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6.5 is also the limit i'd run short arm's any higher get long arms
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:49 AM   #8
1offroadin4x4
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It's working great. Up until the other day I was running that much lift on adj. short arms w/ stock driveshafts and no SYE. Just recently put the drop brackets on, and wow, the difference is awesome. I've got 36's on mine and still get a good deal of flex. Took it for a drive on the road Sat. evening and can't complain, get some wobble around 50ish or so, but I'm on unbalanced tires and havn't had it aligned in forever cuzz it's primarily trailered everywhere it goes.
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Old 09-15-2008, 02:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklabel000 View Post
new track bar yes but ive got the dropped arm already so i should be good there,

so offroadin you have roughly 8 up front and 6.5ish in back? hows that workin for ya because that exaclty what im lookin to do

i need room for my 36s under there
Most of us running 36s or larger, or 35s for that matter, are doing so with with 5-6" of lift. A couple of guys are running less than that.

If you want that much lift, that's fine, but it's by no means needed to run 36s.

edit: I really hope you're planning some axle upgrades and a whole new rear axle to run those 36s though.
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:40 PM   #10
blacklabel000
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already got that covered,hp44 up front and d60 in rear,frame being stiffened as we speak and im planning on makin my own long arms or buying the drop bracket kit...

and i can fit 36s now, id just like to be bigger, its a problem i have

i have changed brake lines and added tc drop, but i never did need a SYE so im set there for now.

so just go with the spacers and shackles? ive got most everything else covered, unless u think im missin something?let me know!

thanks a ton-nick
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:47 PM   #11
blacklabel000
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well since we got that out of the way ive got a few questions before i start my axle swap if ya dont mind

what should i do about the locker situation? i have no money as it is and need to do somthing, now this is a trail rig only so the cheaper the better

thanks-nick
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Old 09-15-2008, 09:03 PM   #12
kg4kzv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklabel000 View Post
well since we got that out of the way ive got a few questions before i start my axle swap if ya dont mind

what should i do about the locker situation? i have no money as it is and need to do somthing, now this is a trail rig only so the cheaper the better

thanks-nick


For a trail rig only and cheap. I can only think of one Lincoln locker.

Chris.
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Old 09-15-2008, 09:10 PM   #13
robsjeepxj
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For a trail rig only the cheapest(around $100 or less each) and by far the easiest way to lock it is definately to spool it. 100% traction nothing to fail. Throw a couple of them in and look out.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:27 PM   #14
blacklabel000
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ya ok ive heard of those, is that the way to go if i decide to take it on the road any time ever?
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:31 PM   #15
broncofire75
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If you like your tires to last like 7000 miles on road run a spool.

If your just going to town and back a few times over a year or so then do it but otherwise get a cheap locker that will disengage when turning and such.
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