[NDTracer]

Last winter I had some issues where my 98 classic wouldn't registar any of the gauges (overhead counsel worked). When I would turn on a blinker it usually triggered something which allowed the tack/spedo ect to work. One time I turned it off when it did this and it wouldn't start again for a couple hours (didn't sound to have spark). I took it in and they said the corrosion from the battery onto the cables caused a large enough resistance to cause this. Does this make sence to you? Also they said the cables would be a couple hundred dollars to replace. This seams way high and was wondering what all of you have found.

Thanks

[90Redlimited]

I replaced my melted battery cables on my old XJ with universal ones I bought for like 6 bucks each, they were thicker gauge too. I can't remember but I did have some problem with the gauges and the ABS light staying on. Find somewhere that sells universal cables and give it a shot. Those car audio shops are a good place since they like to swap for thicker gauge and move the battery to the trunk.

[madrabbitt]

1. get GOOD cheap cables at autozone. I'd do a minimum of 4 gauge wire with possibly a 2 gauge from battery + to pdc, and battery - to block WITH a ground wire to frame. Also, 4 gauge alt to batt and alt to pdc, and a min of 6 gauge batt to starter.

2. pull the dash and gauge cluster, clean the connections to every harness you see.

[MonkeyGrass]

I had a similar issue. Stealership wanted like, $78 for the battery lead cables..

I went to Advanced, bought the $.60 generic battery terminal clamps, and stripped, cleaned and crimped the new ones on my existing wire on there. That's the way to go as long as the corrosion is at the end of the lead wire (usually where it happens). Worked like a charm. If your problem is further down the line (like near the starter or something) then y ou will need to replace the wires, but seriously you can get some of the right guage wire and two termminal connectors and make the cable in about 20 mminutes for a couple of bucks. BTW - this was recommended by my mech, who also feels the same way about the stealer. What a joke. Battery cables cost $6-10!! I can understand paying a premium for a brnaded, OEM part, but over 7 TIMES the worth?! Are you kidding me? Go get the top-post style clamps, some battery gel and you'll be fixed in no time...

[NDTracer]

Well you all are saying what I thought which is why I didn't do it in the first place. My thoughts were to cut the end off of the wire and recrimp an end on it. This is assuming the wire will be long enough with 2" or so cut off. If it won't then what works best to clean the cable, it would be below the covering but could cut that off and use a shrink tube. I have no problems with either of these options. I have access to all of the equipment needed as my dad sells farm machinery so I can just try a new cable too. I just have to get to his place (4 hour drive) to try it, we (wife & 2 kids) don't get there that often anymore.

So what would be the indicator that the aftermarket cables don't work? The antilock light on?

[madrabbitt]

thick cables are thick cables.
read the #2 to my answer, theres a second problem you need to fix after you fix the cables.
In fact, it might be covered under warrenty, since i think there was a tsb on it.

[NDTracer]

Thanks alot and I will have to get to is sometime soon and replace the battery at the same time.