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Unread 06-06-2010, 07:41 PM   #1
Mean Max
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Basic Repair - Transmission mount replacement

This is a "how-to" for a really simple repair. A '98 XJ 4.0L/automatic/NP231 came in the shop with a clunking noise in the driveline. The transmission mount was extremely collapsed & the exhaust system mount bracket (located between the transmission mount & transfer case) was hitting the crossmember.

Here's how close it was at rest, and some pics of the general condition of the mount.






I used a floor jack & a block of wood to support the case while replacing the mount.


A 13MM socket was used to remove the 4 nuts that attach the transmission mount to the crossmember.


The crossmember is attached with a 15MM nut & bolt on each side.




An 18MM head bolt is located on the left & right side of the mount, attaching it to the transfer case.


Here you can see the exhaust mounting plate that is sandwiched between the mount & the transfer case.



Replace the mount with the new one & tighten the 18MM head bolts.


Reinstall the crossmember onto the mount using the four 13MM nuts at the center, and the 15MM nut & bolt on each end of the crossmember.
I used anti-seize on the 15MM crossmember nuts & bolts.


Here you can see the extra clearance gained by istalling a new mount, and best of all there is no more clunking!


Max

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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 06-06-2010, 08:02 PM   #2
xjfever
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At least that one was still one piece, mine came out in pieces.
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Unread 06-06-2010, 08:25 PM   #3
Mean Max
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Funny you should mention that. The idea of the mount being the problem was almost dismissed because it wasn't broken. When giving it a closer inspection I noticed the lack of clearance at the exhaust mount. Once the mount was replaced it was clear that the problem was indeed caused by the mount.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 06-06-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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Mine was dry rotted and the rubber fell out all over the place when I took it out. Bad thing was that I had looked it over a few times and it looked fine before I removed it. I also pushed the t-case around and it seemed sturdy so I had ruled it out as being the problem. Then once it had somewhere to go when removing it, it fell to pieces. I kicked myself for driving it around for months making awful noises and overlooking the problem. Now it is quiet back there and feels a lot smoother.
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  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
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Unread 04-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #5
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reviving old thread

Thanks for the write-up. i've been suspecting mine for awhile and today it just
started some clunking just as I got home. I got under it and noticed when I pushed around on the rear drive shaft the TC would move up and down. It also clicks a little where it goes in the TC. Time to grease that too. maybe that could be my NP242 shifting issue too.
I vote this be made a sticky
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Unread 04-10-2011, 05:27 PM   #6
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I think I'm having the same problem. There is very little space between my exhaust mount and the cross member. If you get a chance Max, could you look at the pic of mine. I just started a threat labeled "Where to start..."

I'd appreciate it.

Also, Any problems with going solid mount over the rubber?

Ryan
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Unread 10-03-2011, 01:42 PM   #7
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Does only one know what size/thread the bolts are used to mount the mount to the transmission? Mine are missing.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 02:01 AM   #8
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and does anyone know the torque of these 18 mm head bolts that go up into trans?
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Unread 01-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #9
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and does anyone know the torque of these 18 mm head bolts that go up into trans?
60-81 N-m (44 ft-lbs.)
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Unread 01-22-2013, 09:59 AM   #10
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Caveats (some of these may have been covered):
- Using LocTite #242 on the mount screws into the case should be considered mandatory
-
As should the use of new nuts on the studs into the crossmember (threaded M8-1.25. I use CRES nuts with Nylon locking collars, so they don't vibrate loose. Easier than dealing with LocTite, in this position.)
- If one mount is shot, replace all three (both engine mounts.) Why? The old mounts will cause accelerated wear on the new one, and wear it out rather quickly.
- While replacing engine mounts, check the screws holding down the engine-side brackets. Use your thinnest feeler gage and try to slide it under the head of the screw. If it goes, remove the screw and put one or two flat washers under the head, then reinstall the screw. Use LocTite #242 - torque specs are on my site in the Tech section (www.kelleyswip.com/tech.html, should be.)
- When jacking up the engine, use a "spreader" between the jack foot and the oil sump. I usually use a section of 2"x6" lumber, about 10" long. It is possible to put your jack foot through the oil sump - which would suck

All three mounts may be replaced with hand tools and a floor jack and a little time - replace them one at a time.
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Unread 03-18-2013, 01:14 PM   #11
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I had an exhaust rattling sound during idle under the floorboards for years. I also had a terrible vibrating / grinding sound during hard acceleration. A few weeks ago I had a new transmission installed after a theft recovery so I knew it wasn't a bad tranny. Last weekend I decided to replace the transmission mount and both engine mounts hoping this would solve the problems. (Would have been nice if the shop recommended changing the $29 tranny mount while they already had it all pulled out.) Sure enough the exhaust rattle at idle is gone and the vibration under hard acceleration disappeared. Feels like a brand new Jeep.

The old transmission mount was covered in gunk and shrunk considerably. The engine mounts didn't look bad but had a little dry rot. I found another write up on replacing the motor mounts that was great (http://www.cherokeeforum.com/article...eplacement-11/). Thanks to this write up I saved hundreds on labor at the dealership and only spent $73 at Napa Auto Parts for the 3 mounts. The whole job took only a few hours and I didn't hit any snags. I can't believe how much smoother my '00 XJ Sport runs.
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Unread 03-31-2013, 09:58 AM   #12
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Mine was replaced this weekend. Here's the height difference between a sagging transmission mount and a new one.

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Unread 05-30-2013, 02:17 PM   #13
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good lord. I need to do mine...
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Unread 09-20-2013, 09:47 PM   #14
Shinigami88
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Bumping an old thread but I'm doing mine tomorrow morning. Exhaust rattles like crazy on the cross member and in a week or two I'll change the motor mounts.
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Unread 09-23-2013, 07:14 PM   #15
dgood
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You will need an 18 mm 13 mm and a 15 mm. The reason I say this is because not many people have an 18. As long as nothing is rusted all 3 moons will take u about 2 hours to do it self.
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