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#1 | |
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Senior Member
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Ball Joint write up?
I have searched the forums and the search thing doesnt seem to want to cooperate with me and doesnt show anything related to what I type..
Any known write ups for ball joints, replacing track bar, or tie rods?
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1998 Cherokee XJ 159k miles
"I may get lost, but I never get stuck" There was a distinct moment where I felt the Jeep go past the center of gravity. My buddy and I looked at each other and just said "Oh ****". |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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As far the ball joints
1. With vehicle on ground break loose the axle nut, and remove (Or you can leave it together and remove it with the wheel bearing. 2. Jack Vehicle and remove wheel 3. Remove the brake caliper, rotor, and pads 4. Remove the TRE's 5. Remove the 3 bolts on the back side of the knuckle that hold the wheel bearing assembly. 6. Tap on the hub evenly around it to remove the wheel bearing. 7. Loosen the ball joint nuts 8. With a nut still bearly on one or both ball joints take a hammer and tap where the stud is on the knuckle, and it should fall. 9. Remove the outer knuckle. 10. Go to your local parts store and rent a ball joint remover/installer and replace the ball joints. 11. Then in the knuckle there should be a threaded taper remove this with a ball joint spanner wrench, and install the new one w/ some anti seize. thread it til the bottom is flush with the knuckle then back it off just a hair. Install the new knuckle tightening the lower joint first then the top evenly. Torque for the lower is 75 ft/lbs and the upper is 80 ft/lbs. 12. Install the axle shafts 13. Install the hubs using the 3 bolts to suck it together. tighten evenly across the 3 bolts in a clockwise rotation. 14. Install the TRE 15. Install the brakes 16. Install the tire. 17. Tighten the axle nut 18. Grease and inspect
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/bert-bus-build-thread-949079/"]Bert Bus Build Thread[/URL] Small Block Chevy 327 TH400 Swap in progress. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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TRE use a pickle fork, and they come right out, same for the track bar.
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/bert-bus-build-thread-949079/"]Bert Bus Build Thread[/URL] Small Block Chevy 327 TH400 Swap in progress. |
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#4 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
D30 Ball Joint Replacement - 1 Steering (no particular "tie rod" page but enuff info to get u the idea) Round #2 - Page 12 (it's a TJ but very similar to xj)
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2001 XJ Sport 4.5" RC LA Custom snorkel Detours/winch Flux Capacitor Heat Machine |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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You don't need a pickle fork. It ruins the boots. Just unbolt the castle nut and whack the knuckle right next to the tie rod stud and it will pop out. I sometimes use a tie rod puller which is $12 at your parts store.
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2001 XJ Sport 4.5" RC LA Custom snorkel Detours/winch Flux Capacitor Heat Machine |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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If your replacing them then yeah a pickle fork works great.
His question was on replacing not removing.
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[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/bert-bus-build-thread-949079/"]Bert Bus Build Thread[/URL] Small Block Chevy 327 TH400 Swap in progress. |
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#7 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Now i shall go eat some pickles.
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2001 XJ Sport 4.5" RC LA Custom snorkel Detours/winch Flux Capacitor Heat Machine |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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yes I want to replace, I dont care what they look like after I remove them so thats no big deal but either way I could probably borrow a pickle fork then from advance. Trackbar is getting done first.
Thanks for the write ups!!
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1998 Cherokee XJ 159k miles
"I may get lost, but I never get stuck" There was a distinct moment where I felt the Jeep go past the center of gravity. My buddy and I looked at each other and just said "Oh ****". |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I put this here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/ball-joint-replacement-927259/, but will say it again here with more detail:
Did mine last week, bought the Moog uppers and lowers for a tad under $200 (yep, all 4 failed safety inspection) from rockauto, included shipping. Shop wanted ~$700 to do it all plus alignment, thought I had better take this on myself after reading and watching numerous how-tos online. I'm a little surprised they were wore out, but did get a second opinion. Uppers were greased ~ 3 times per year, no abuse, but I do have almost 170,000 miles now. Never had to replace ball joints on other vehicles that went past this mileage (Ford F-100, Dodge Shadow, and Pontiac Montana), but maybe the 4X4 is rougher on them? I rented most everything from Autozone and it worked good. FYI, great video links on how to do this: YouTube - Jeep Cherokee Ball Joint Replacement part 1 - HD YouTube - Jeep Cherokee Ball Joint Replacement part 2 - HD I did use the pickle fork, the castle nut on the lower replacements were larger, a 1 5/16", than the factory ones. Balljoint press worked good, did have to use the washers as indicated on the video since the ball joints are off-set. May want to try to find the offset adapters that are discussed in the how-to provided in Muddeprived's D30 balljoint replacement link post. You want to be perfectly lined up before you start cranking on the press, or the old ones won't budge. Took our time and it was about 9-10 hours to do both sides so I wouldn't go cheap on the parts, bought the Moog joints off of rockauto.com. Did use a slide hammer to pull the axles out and no damage to the hubs. I also did like in the video and did not disconnect the tire rod, rather moved the knuckle around front and sat it on a bucket after driving it off the old joints. Oh, and after doing the job, I had the alignment checked and it was perfect, no front end alignment was required.
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Patriot Blue 2000 Sport 4X4 4.0 inline six, AW-4 Automatic, stock 192,000 miles and counting http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e65/mhall02/Mike%20Pics/Jeep1.jpg Last edited by mhall02; 02-04-2010 at 10:52 AM.. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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Does anyone know roughly how long it would take to replace the upper and lower ball joints on the just right front?
__________________
1998 Cherokee XJ 159k miles
"I may get lost, but I never get stuck" There was a distinct moment where I felt the Jeep go past the center of gravity. My buddy and I looked at each other and just said "Oh ****". |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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without any problems and a good press, 2 hours max if you take your time.
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#12 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
My XJ had been thru 18 Michigan winters and it took me at least 8 hours spread over 2 days to do the job on one side...if they use salt on the road in your area plan on a similar experience. |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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As noted in post above, shop wanted to charge 4 hours time. If I had to do it again, I think it would be more like 4-6 hours total.
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Patriot Blue 2000 Sport 4X4 4.0 inline six, AW-4 Automatic, stock 192,000 miles and counting http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e65/mhall02/Mike%20Pics/Jeep1.jpg |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Hey guys, this thread has been very useful to me since I just had to replace my ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm having a problem getting my axles back in though. They don't want to engage the drive shaft. I have the TJ raised up with the pumpkin hanging down and thought that might be the problem but I don't know. I slide the axles in and it feels like they're just not finding the right spot. Maybe I should have taken them out on at a time? If I turn one side the other side will turn, but the drive shaft won't.
Thanks for any help.
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'98 TJ Sahara 3" Full Traction Economy spring lift 33X10.5 BFG M/Ts Outlaw I wheels w/3.75" Backspacing |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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