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Unread 06-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #1
1996xj
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1996 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: MI
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Ball joint loose in yoke

I replaced my Upper ball joints a few months ago and just noticed that they are no longer fully seated in the yoke or "ear" on the axle, loose to the point where I could actually twist the top of them bit. After doing a little research I decided to replace them with a the Moog "problem solver" ball joints which are supposed to be slightly wider than the OEM ones. It didn't take that much force to press them in there, so not I'm worried these will eventually work loose too.

Anyone else run into this issue before?

BTW, I coated the moog joints with Permatex "Sleeve Retainer" loctite, so hopefully that will give them a little more bonding strength.

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1996xj
3" Rough Country Lift, 3in shackles, 3 RC shocks, 31" BFG ATs, 2 KCs, Lighted Roofrack, Soft 8s, TC drop, Custom oil leak deflector.
If only i could get a set of tires to last me 10,000Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
i am just gunna drive around in 4lo on dry streets, and peel out
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0H.O.XJ
I once got a ticket for jerking while driving it. The cop wouldnt let me use his pen to sign the ticket.
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Unread 06-02-2013, 04:18 PM   #2
lazyxj
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Tack them in with a MIG welder, top and bottom.
The yokes are already screwed up so there is little to lose.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 12:59 PM   #3
1996xj
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Well the passenger ball joint has already move up a bit, so it looks like I will be welding it.
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1996xj
3" Rough Country Lift, 3in shackles, 3 RC shocks, 31" BFG ATs, 2 KCs, Lighted Roofrack, Soft 8s, TC drop, Custom oil leak deflector.
If only i could get a set of tires to last me 10,000Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
i am just gunna drive around in 4lo on dry streets, and peel out
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0H.O.XJ
I once got a ticket for jerking while driving it. The cop wouldnt let me use his pen to sign the ticket.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #4
chriskeenan
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you could have the yokes machined out to accept a repair sleeve, which would also need to be machined and then pressed or welded in place.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 07:33 AM   #5
1996xj
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Location: MI
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Decided to just weld it today. Put 4 tack welds around it without the ball joint getting hot. But then decided to put a two large welds on it just in case, which made it too hot to touch. Hopefully I didn't damage the joint internals.

I only welded the pass ball joint as the drivr side was still in place. Oddly it was the moog joint that came loose, while the store brand one stayed tight. Obviously there are other possible varible but kinda pissed i spend 2.5x as much on the moog joint and it didn't solve the problem.
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1996xj
3" Rough Country Lift, 3in shackles, 3 RC shocks, 31" BFG ATs, 2 KCs, Lighted Roofrack, Soft 8s, TC drop, Custom oil leak deflector.
If only i could get a set of tires to last me 10,000Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
i am just gunna drive around in 4lo on dry streets, and peel out
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0H.O.XJ
I once got a ticket for jerking while driving it. The cop wouldnt let me use his pen to sign the ticket.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 08:59 AM   #6
Pats94
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Welding ball joints? Why would that seem to be a good idea? I understand being on a budget but not a good idea there.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 10:44 AM   #7
lazyxj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats94 View Post
Welding ball joints? Why would that seem to be a good idea? I understand being on a budget but not a good idea there.
How would you suggest fixing this problem while spending little or nothing?
Locktite, knurling or shims isn't going to be strong enough.
He has a D30 with worn yokes and doesn't want to spend big bucks on it, so, other than replacing the axle housing or having expensive machine work done, tacking is his only choice for keeping the ball joints tightly in place.

The tacks should be kept small and allowed to cool between tacks, to prevent damaging the internals. If placed correctly, the tacks can be ground off, if the ball joints need to be removed in the future.
I have done this to two D30s, both of which are still on the road after several years of daily use.
If he is building a serious rig, finding a good replacement housing or better still, a bigger axle is the best solution.
A cheaper, more involved solution would be to cut and remove the Cs and then weld in good ones, rotating them to correct the caster...it's not an easy thing to do.
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Unread 06-06-2013, 09:30 PM   #8
1996xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats94 View Post
Welding ball joints? Why would that seem to be a good idea? I understand being on a budget but not a good idea there.
There's no where for the ball joint to go if the welds fail... It still rode fine even when both ball joints were loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyxj View Post
How would you suggest fixing this problem while spending little or nothing?
Locktite, knurling or shims isn't going to be strong enough.
He has a D30 with worn yokes and doesn't want to spend big bucks on it, so, other than replacing the axle housing or having expensive machine work done, tacking is his only choice for keeping the ball joints tightly in place.

The tacks should be kept small and allowed to cool between tacks, to prevent damaging the internals. If placed correctly, the tacks can be ground off, if the ball joints need to be removed in the future.
I have done this to two D30s, both of which are still on the road after several years of daily use.
If he is building a serious rig, finding a good replacement housing or better still, a bigger axle is the best solution.
A cheaper, more involved solution would be to cut and remove the Cs and then weld in good ones, rotating them to correct the caster...it's not an easy thing to do.
That's good to hear. Just trying to keep it going till it succumbs to rust, basically just for around town driving, and doesn't go off road anymore.

Thanks for posting.
__________________
1996xj
3" Rough Country Lift, 3in shackles, 3 RC shocks, 31" BFG ATs, 2 KCs, Lighted Roofrack, Soft 8s, TC drop, Custom oil leak deflector.
If only i could get a set of tires to last me 10,000Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
i am just gunna drive around in 4lo on dry streets, and peel out
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0H.O.XJ
I once got a ticket for jerking while driving it. The cop wouldnt let me use his pen to sign the ticket.
1996xj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-07-2013, 07:22 AM   #9
moggie99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyxj View Post
Tack them in with a MIG welder, top and bottom.
The yokes are already screwed up so there is little to lose.
That's what I did and after several months of quite hard use they are still in place.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #10
AZ Jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyxj View Post
How would you suggest fixing this problem while spending little or nothing?
Wrap them with Duct Tape. Just kidding!
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Unread 06-12-2013, 07:16 PM   #11
Pats94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ Jeff View Post

Wrap them with Duct Tape. Just kidding!
I thought what was doing was the same thing! Lol
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Unread 06-12-2013, 07:20 PM   #12
Pats94
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2001 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Des Moines, Ia
Posts: 421
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyxj View Post

How would you suggest fixing this problem while spending little or nothing?
Locktite, knurling or shims isn't going to be strong enough.
He has a D30 with worn yokes and doesn't want to spend big bucks on it, so, other than replacing the axle housing or having expensive machine work done, tacking is his only choice for keeping the ball joints tightly in place.

The tacks should be kept small and allowed to cool between tacks, to prevent damaging the internals. If placed correctly, the tacks can be ground off, if the ball joints need to be removed in the future.
I have done this to two D30s, both of which are still on the road after several years of daily use.
If he is building a serious rig, finding a good replacement housing or better still, a bigger axle is the best solution.
A cheaper, more involved solution would be to cut and remove the Cs and then weld in good ones, rotating them to correct the caster...it's not an easy thing to do.
I would SUGGEST that you fix it right. Sometimes cheap Micky mouse fixes get people hurt and not just you. If that's how you want to fix it please stay off road. The cheap fix is blow a c note get a used front end....
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