Awful Sounds -
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post #1 of 3 Old 05-30-2013, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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1983 CJ7 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pompano Beach
Posts: 46
Awful Sounds

94 XJ, 2WD, 4.0L auto, owned for just a month or so. 160k miles

It's so hard to search for "sound" type issues, so after an hour or so I thought I'd just post:

The other day, accelerating from a stop at idle, I heard what sounded like I smashed into something, then continued on kind of sluggish. I did not, however, smash into anything. No sound at idle, nothing when I rev in neutral, which points me to trans problem. If I get on it from a standstill or even while moving, it sounds like kind of like metal on metal- like if you pushed a screwdriver against a pulley or a really loud brake squeal. Acceleration is slow through first gear, but after a bit it evens out, sort of like a dirty injector might run. Also sounds like a clunking sometimes from the right front wheel area, but that may just be a shock issue. I haven't dropped the trans pan to see if there's a chunk of something laying in there yet, but any ideas would help before I start.

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post #2 of 3 Old 06-05-2013, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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1983 CJ7 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pompano Beach
Posts: 46
I know everyone was waiting with a chuckle ready, but:

Crunch was the three bolts holding the passenger motor mount secure shearing clean.

Awful sounds were the fan hitting the shroud, the radiator, and even the frame

Sluggishness maybe the driveline being all cock-eyed.

Thanks everyone!!!
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post #3 of 3 Old 06-06-2013, 03:46 PM
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1990 MJ Comanche 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Prescott
Posts: 11,570
Amazing what you find by lifting the hood!!

This should interest you:

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @

This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.

If you own a Renix Jeep, you must check this out:

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