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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Aux light wiring Help
Hello So I'm going to be running 4 100W lights on 2 different relays
Im using this diagram. ![]() My question is.From the switch to the Ignition Where exactly do I wire it to? A guy at the auto parts store said i should tap into a Red/white wire that is under the dash. I found a red/white wire by the brake pedal, but It is fairly tight and I dont want to go cutting wires really. Where exactly should I run this wire from the Switch? I was also planning on just eliminating the indicator light. Im using 12gauge wire throughout the entire thing. Should I use 12ga wire when wiring the switch? Thank you!
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1990 YJ Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Lift 32x11.50 Lemans A/T |
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#2 | |
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Web Wheeler
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OK, the parts guy is an idiot. Do not tap into the red/white wire. Go to your fusebox, and find either key on, or key off power source. Whichever you prefer will work fine. Then to tap into power from the fusebox you will most likely need a spade connector. Go from the fusebox to the switch, and from the switch to the relay. The "control" side (meaning the switch side) is very low current. Typically it doesnt exceed 300mA. I would run 18-22 gauge wire for the control side. There is no need to run 12 gauge wire for the control side. However 12 gauge wire is the smallest that you want to run for the lights.
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#3 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Quote:
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Current: Black 89 limited, dakota bastard pack, zj coils, 1.5" lift, open cooling swap, bronco 2 carrier, rad fan switch Rest in Pieces: Red 1990 cherokee dana30/8.25 - v8 zj coils & s10 bastard pack 2.5" lift - 31x10.5r15 tires - v8 zj tierod jf irc @ irc.freenode.net #jeepforum |
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#4 |
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Go Jeepin
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: out in the garage - Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 15,305
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Find a fuse or circuit that has power only when the key is ON. Tap into that circuit. When you do that, the fog lamps shut off when you take out the keys and you won't forget them and run down the battery.
Click here -> Jeep Stuff
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. FOR SALE: Wide Track CJ-7 Dana 44 rear axle. PM me for details A Government big enough to give you everything you want, is a Government big enough to take from you
everything you have. The course of history shows that as a Government grows, Liberty decreases. |
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#5 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western N.S.W., Australia
Posts: 864
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Your power source for the switch will depend on your requirements ... I normally have any extra lighting I fit ( especially rear and side ), switched from a permanent power source ... as its handy to flick the lights on whilst putting up a tent at night ... without the delightfully melodious tones of the door open / lights on / key in the ignition chimes ![]() Indicator light is a handy thing altho many switches can be got with them built in .... easy way of course is ... toggle switch up = off ![]() As the others have said .. you only need small gauge wire for the switch, relay control wiring ... Last edited by Carves; 02-09-2010 at 04:37 PM.. |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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I have a 2000
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Honestly Just explain it like your talking to a handicapped person thanks for all the replies so far
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1990 YJ Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Lift 32x11.50 Lemans A/T |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Is this what you mean when you say tapping into a fuse?
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1990 YJ Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Lift 32x11.50 Lemans A/T |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western N.S.W., Australia
Posts: 864
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#9 |
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Registered User
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A couple things. 12 gauge wire is really too small for 200 watts, if you're running them as shown on the diagram. (Single wire to a "Y" split) That single wire section will be carrying a 200 watt load(14.5 amps @13.8 volts). If you're intent on using 12 gage wire, run two separate wires directly from the relay to the lights(One wire to each light). And two wires FROM THE BATTERY POSITIVE TO THE RELAY. That way, each run is only carrying 7.25 amps. This will result in less voltage drop. And your lights will be brighter. Oh, and there's that reduced risk of overloading the wires and that fire hazardy thingy. Think of it like hooking up a fire truck to your garden hose, rather than the 4 inch hose that comes from a hydrant. I use 10 gauge wire for my 100w KC's. The other thing is, Checker/O'Reilly's/Autozone etc.. sell plug in power taps that will tap off your fuse box. The modified fuse thing will work, as long as it doesn't short out on something. If that fuse ever blows, your lights don't work until you get around to modifying another fuse. Hope this helps. Also, I just tapped off the back of the cigarette lighter socket. Short wire run, and it's controlled by the key. If you plan on using those plastic covers on your lights when not in use, you might want to reconsider the indicator light. I fried a couple on my CJ-7 years ago. Bumped the switch and didn't realize it. Those lights burned through the covers like a laser beam.
Last edited by xj2k1; 02-09-2010 at 05:17 PM.. Reason: Addendum |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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so this is what your recommending I do if I use 12gauge wire?
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1990 YJ Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Lift 32x11.50 Lemans A/T |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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That should work, just make sure your relay is rated for at least 40 amps if you use 2 20 amp fuses.
The way mine is set up is: large power feed lines to the light bar, with a 30a fuse to the battery (direct) there is a relay on the underside of the light bar for each light some cat5 wire to trigger the relays, runs to switch box the switches get power from the acc line with a 1a inline fuse all in all, my setup is similar to yours, except I didn't have any relays higher than 20a but I did have wire my pair of 100w lights draw approx ~16A when both on, so with the right gauge of wire, you should be ok with 1 20a fuse & relay |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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So you basically used the diagram that I initially posted using 2 100 watt lights? and a 20 amp really and fuse?
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1990 YJ Rubicon Express 2.5" Standard Lift 32x11.50 Lemans A/T |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western N.S.W., Australia
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Ryanjeeper .... I think you said you were going to use one relay per pair of lights in your first post ....
In that case 20a relays will be fine ... 30amp better and so on ... till you're happy with possible overload scenarios. If you're going to run individual wires from the relay to the lights ... thats good too as it allows the use of smaller wiring if you wish ( 10amp minimum capable ) .... and it would probably be worthwhile getting the "normal" bosch light relays which don't have an 87a terminal .... but have two 87 terminals instead. Relay types explained here --> Relay_Info Run your earth connections from the lights to a real good ground ... a bolt, not a crappy selftapper ... or right back to neg on the battery for best results. |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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That's basically my setup yes the only difference is I used 1 relay per light, just so I could control the light individually but your setup will work fine !
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#15 |
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Registered User
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The diagram looks right, except. I would use 10 amp fuses. The two wires will share the load evenly. Instead of a 20 amp fuse on each wire, run 10 amp fuses one each of the two wires. OR, attach one of the fuse holder leads to the relay. Then attach the two wires from the battery to the other side of the fuse holder. Then you can get by with a single 20 amp fuse. In case you're unaware of it. You can get fuse holders that use the blade style fuses. That way, if you've got spare fuses for the Jeep you've got spare fuses for the lights. I gave up on glass fuses long ago. One more thing. I recommend a relay socket. That way, if and when a relay craps out you can just plug in a new one.
Good luck NOTE: If you turn on your lights and they won't shut off, the relay contacts have welded together. Your relay isn't big enough to handle the current load.(personnal experience) At that point you'll need a bigger relay(current rating) or a relay for each light. And yes, you can run two relays with one switch. |
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