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Unread 06-16-2013, 04:34 AM   #1
Pinktip
Registered User
1998 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Stillwater, NY
Posts: 10
Auto trans won't shift out of 2nd

Hi folks,
95' Cherokee sport, 4.0l,4x4, 150K

Never had shifting issues with it, but had a high idle that I troubleshot
to IAC motor. Had TB off a couple of times and was searching for vac leaks.
Buttoned it up last Nov and never ran it on the road until yesterday
as I was prepearing to sell it.

With shifter in 3od, trans will only go into 2nd and at over 3k rpm.
Same with manually shifting it.
Transfluid is clean an at level.
FIlter?
Did I leave something unplugged when messing with the high idle?
Index into P, R N normal.
Shifts are firm and crisp.
Linkage is on the TB

THoughts? Thanks!

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Unread 06-16-2013, 05:09 AM   #2
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 8,406
1. Adjust your TV cable. Here is a link on "how-to".

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/

2. Test your throttle position sensor. Here's more.

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
__________________
99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242
Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche
Without "data", all you have is an opinion!
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Unread 06-16-2013, 04:25 PM   #3
Pinktip
Registered User
1998 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Stillwater, NY
Posts: 10
Thanks TJW! I'll go through the list.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 06:03 PM   #4
Pinktip
Registered User
1998 FSJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Stillwater, NY
Posts: 10
The TV cable adjust solved the shifting issue. Thanks!

But now I have a check engine light.
There is no OBDII port on a 95' correct?
Did the battery disconnect and no luck.
I did have the light when I first started the vehicle over
the wkend and an it cleared. Thought maybe a little water in the gas
Had a stumble when I first started it tonight after TV adjust
but then ran fine.

Any info appreciated!
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Unread 06-18-2013, 05:05 PM   #5
tjwalker
It's the crank sensor!
 
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Minnesota, MN
Posts: 8,406
Glad I could help with the shifting issue. To answer your question about a check engine light on a 95, your 95 is OBDI so you can retrieve the codes yourself. Here is how. Post the EXACT code(s) here for comment.

Retrieving OBD codes on the Jeep Cherokee (XJ) OBD1 Models: 1991-1995

1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).
2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.
3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost.

NOTE: A "5-5" will always occur to signal the end of the sequence. Some will flash the "1-2" code indicating a recent battery disconnect even if you haven't done it. Ignore these
__________________
99 Cherokee, 4.0 AW4, NP242
Past Jeeps: 49 Willys, 81 Scrambler, 88 Comanche
Without "data", all you have is an opinion!
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