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Unread 01-13-2010, 07:39 PM   #1
Kevin108
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Any tricks to installing lift shackles?

I got a set of RC 2" shackles I'm going to put on Friday. Any tips?

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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:06 PM   #2
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PB BLASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Otherwise no
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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:07 PM   #3
leftlanetruckin
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Tips as in what?
You remove the stock shackles, put the new ones in, and torque the bolts.
Do you need a step by step direction as to how to change the shackles?
You kind of confused me....
Are they 2" lift shackles, or 2" longer than a stock shackle, meaning 1' lift? If they are 2" lift shackles, be prepared for a goofy pinion angle, possible vibrations, and your leaf springs not lasting too long.
Martin
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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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It helps to have a lot of PB and access to air tools.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 05:42 AM   #5
Kevin108
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I swear by PB Blaster at home and at work, so that's a given.

LLT: Jeep XJ Adjustable Shackles My springs have a slight negative arch. I'm sagged 1.75" on the drivers side and 1.5" on the passenger side. This was a quick fix until I feel like fooling with the spring packs.

HH: I have access to air and impact wrenches, etc.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 11:12 AM   #6
Moose_God
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You will need:

Air tools and/or a long breaker bar and cheater pipe.

Prybar for getting everything aligned.

Beer.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 11:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose_God View Post
Prybar for getting everything aligned.
Beer.
X2 especially the beer


TIP:

Don't torque your shackle and leaf bolts down until the weight of the vehicle is back on the suspension. I've had issues with the shackles not seating correctly when torqued in the installation position (drooped suspension)

Also, every xj I have worked on had the nuts on the outside (near fenders) so to get the bolt out you had to loosen exhaust, and even skid plates (if equip) When reinstalling, put the nut on the inside.



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Unread 01-15-2010, 10:01 PM   #8
Kevin108
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What I learned today:

Rough Country includes no instructions at all - just a box full of shackles, hardware and other pieces you won't understand until you remove the factory shackle.

It takes longer to get the jack stands setup optimally than it does to actually install the shackles.

Have a friend handy. It was infinitely easier to have someone else pry on the springs while you lined up the shackles just so to insert the bolts.

If you have a Curt rear hitch, you can't put the bolt in on the drivers' side with the nut on the outside. This results in the nut making contact with the tail pipe and rattling occasionally. The bolt head is thinner than the nylock nut and would likely clear the tail pipe but the hitch blocks you from being able to insert the bolt the opposite way.

My solution was to cut the factory pipe just behind the last hanger and replace it with a bolt-on turn down from the parts store. The new turn down tapers down in front of the shackle instead of behind it.
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Last edited by Kevin108; 01-19-2010 at 08:53 PM..
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