I was reading Sharpie's thread about going doorless in a 97+ here
. When I got to thinking "why can't we just cut the bottom on the hinge off like on the earlier models, so that going doorless on a 97+ is a one man job?", so I went outside and looked at the hinges on my 99 and my 88. It looks like the hinge on the 88 sticks out from the body a little further than on the 99 which allows the 88's door to be pulled straight up. The 99's door, however interfers with the A-pillar just enough so that you can't pull it straight up and off.
After coming to this realization, I thought maybe a "short" hinge pin on the top hinge and a "full length" hinge pin on the bottom hinge will allow me to pull my doors straight off and on by myself. I decided to try it, and this is what I came up with:
Remember, modifying your hinges will never allow you to have factory hinges again without buying brand new ones and welding them on.
First, I took the doors off following Sharpie's instructions, making sure to undo the wiring behind the kick panel and also to take out the hinge pins.
This is what the the part of the hinge thats left on the Jeep should look like:
I then unbolted the hinge from the door (remember to mark where they were bolted, this will make door alignment much easier). After this, I cut the bottom of the hinge off so that the hinge looked like this:
The extra pieces from the hinge that you won't need anymore should look something like this:
Next, I took some 4" long 5/16" bolts and cut them down to act as new hinge pins. The bottom hinge pin needs to be long enough to go through the entire hinge. The top hinge pin only needs to be about to the blue line:
After I cut the bolts, I welded them to what is left of the hinge. This is the bottom hinge, remember the top one will need to be shorter (Please ignore the crap looking welds):
All thats left now is to bolt the hinges back onto the door and slide the door back onto the Jeep. You may need to do a little bit of aligning, but take your time, it will be worth it to have nicely sealed doors.
After some aligning, I got my door to have almost factory gaps and sealed perfectly:
The back doors are done using the same method as the front. However, they are really easy to do compared to the fronts though do to the extra room you have to work with (no fender right there by the door). Also, if you don't have power windows or locks there are no wires to disconnect for the back doors
The last step is to take your doors back off, enjoy how easy it is, and then go drive around and watch the crazy looks you get.
Also, for anyone who is interested the weights for the doors on a non-power 4 door are:
68 lbs/ea for the front doors
42 lbs/ea for the rear doors
This is using an old bathroom scale, so it may be a little off, but should be in the ballpark atleast.