another endlessly overheating xj - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Cherokee & Comanche Forums > XJ Cherokee Technical Forum > another endlessly overheating xj

1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Front Upper & Lower Control ArSwag Off Road BIG-HIT TJ-YJ Rear BumperFS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome Effect

Reply
Unread 07-04-2013, 12:20 PM   #16
igee99
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Augusta, Michigan
Posts: 1
Overheating Jeep

I have been a auto tech and jeep owner for quite awhile now. I have found to get the best cooling action from your system is to flush it good twice a year. Especially the four liter engine. Being a iron head and block builds up a lot of rust "fur" on the cooling jacket of the engine and radiator. Put flush in it and drive it for at least an hour. I have been known to drive it for two days. Remove the thermostat and flush with a garden hose on full pressure until the water runs clean. Then reinstall the thermostat and remove one of the heater core hoses, preferably the top one. Fill system at the rad with 50/50 mix coolant until it runs out of the hose. Hold the hose above the level of the engine. Run engine until thermostat opens and if you have good heat the air is out. I do this religiously twice a year for myself and my customers and have had excellent results.

igee99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-04-2013, 07:42 PM   #17
dented
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 26
Fan shroud

I had a constant overheating issue with an 89 XJ. New fan shroud, no problem.
dented is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-05-2013, 06:37 PM   #18
Mywrangler94
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Staten Island, New York
Posts: 443
I'm going with IGEE, Its what I do with my YJ. Even though I have a griffin aluminum radiator, a FlowKooler waterpump, High Flow thermostat and housing, I run constantly at 195-220. Depends on driving situation. Thats as good as it gets for me......I'm happy, and so is my 4.0. And yes guys, you NEED water in the coolant for it to absorb the heat from the block more efficiently.
Mywrangler94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-13-2013, 05:08 PM   #19
whadeezlrg
Registered User
1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: high desert, ca
Posts: 14
ok well I figured this really deserved the update. me and a buddy replaced the timing chain, gears, and dampener last week. while we were at it i decided to go ahead and do the oil pan gasket as well since I had a small seep, and the replacement gasket that comes with the timing gasket set is kinda bogus....good thing we did, there was a bolt from the oil pump snorkel sitting in the bottom of the pan. bolt replaced. old timing chain(appeared to be the factory chain) had about 1/2-3/4" of free play....new one had MAYBE 1/8"

anyways the point of this update.

finished timing chain and reassembling all of the accesories/components, reinstalled rad...yada, yada, burp the system yada...fired it up, instantly started, and then it sat and idled at about 250-300rpm for the next 10min. shut it off, re started it....same thing very low idle(basically this confirms my theory that the ecu was trying to compensate for a rich condition caused by incomplete ignition in the combustion chamber by leaning out the fuel mixture) after a few more on/off cycles she started up and idled right around 700 rpm. I took it for a test drive around town up and down hills that normally heat me up pretty quickly, I couldn't get the needle to go over maybe 205 even with the a/c on full blast....to top it off my jeep has never run better since ive owned it (50kmiles, 2.5years) literally has twice the power, throttle response, better fuel mileage, runs quieter, etc. bottom line if your having an overheating gremlin have a smog shop run a "test" if you have high Nox chances are your due for a timing chain (I'd be willing to go and get another smog done on my xj because I am that confident that my nox levels have gone down considerably since replacing my timing chain)

for the record: yes it has a stock mech fan shroud, water jackets in block appear to be in great condition(free of rust/corrosion/scale deposits), I had a block test done on it last summer and it was fine...The cooling system is/was fully functional throughout the duration of my overheating issues, as I said before I thought that the engine was just producing more heat than a flawlessly running cooling system was capable of handling...

Here's to mountain roads without a heater!

Bottom line: Replacing my timing chain SOLVED my overheating nightmare.
whadeezlrg is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #20
djb383
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 2,201
Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
The single row Griffin is rated to handle 400 hp. You don't have anywhere near that.
Understood......but what makes the Griffin (other than the tank material) so different than the OE rad? How wide is the Griffin's 1 row, how many rows vertically and how many fins per inch? If the Griffin has a wider row, more rows vertically and more fins/inch, then that would explain the 400hp rating/extra cooling performance. If it doesn't have more of those 3 items than a OE rad, then basically it has aluminum tanks vs OE plastic and tank material doesn't seem like a cooling performance improver........rad heat dissipation is all in the core's design.

The OE rad is a aluminum 1 row that's 1.25" wide, has 30 rows vertically and 15-16 fins/inch. My ? is, how do the Griffin design/construction numbers compare to OE, other than HP.
__________________
Man Law - hoods should be raised at least once a week.....have a look see.
djb383 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 05:00 AM   #21
Carves
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western N.S.W., Australia
Posts: 1,041
Quote:
Originally Posted by djb383 View Post
Understood......but what makes the Griffin (other than the tank material) so different than the OE rad? How wide is the Griffin's 1 row, how many rows vertically and how many fins per inch? If the Griffin has a wider row, more rows vertically and more fins/inch, then that would explain the 400hp rating/extra cooling performance. If it doesn't have more of those 3 items than a OE rad, then basically it has aluminum tanks vs OE plastic and tank material doesn't seem like a cooling performance improver........rad heat dissipation is all in the core's design.

The OE rad is a aluminum 1 row that's 1.25" wide, has 30 rows vertically and 15-16 fins/inch. My ? is, how do the Griffin design/construction numbers compare to OE, other than HP.

I sorta chuckle at radiator company horsepower claims.

Is their 400hp radiator meant for 4.0l i6 XJ .... or a flat4, turboed 400hp subaru ..
Carves is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 08:22 AM   #22
Jeff9
Registered User
2000 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
The one item that will have more effect on cooling an XJ than anything is an aluminum radiator. I had a 2 row CSF and a 3 row CSF all metal radiator. The 3 row had marginally better cooling than the 2 row. I have a 260 hp stroked 4.6 liter. It gets hot when you try to use the extra horsepower. I got a single row aluminum griffin radiator rated for 400 hp and most of the time the temp stays at 190 to 195. I made every mod I know of except a tranny oil cooler but the aluminum radiator mod had more effect than all the others put together. Aluminum radiators have much wider tubes than brass radiators. Aluminum is stiffer and can be made this way without the tubes ballooning under the 16psi pressure. So find regular thickness XJ aluminum radiator.

You can sell the slightly used CSF radiator on ebay very easily.
Are you referring to this (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-5-70095) Griffin rad? It's the "Exact Fit" part. If not, which one are you referring to?
Jeff9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 04:02 PM   #23
djb383
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 2,201
That link says 1.5" core (1/4" wider than OE stock), but nothing about number of rows vertically or fin count. And that pic in the link is for RHD, must be one of those "down under" things.
__________________
Man Law - hoods should be raised at least once a week.....have a look see.
djb383 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-30-2013, 02:25 AM   #24
brigbeach
Registered User
1996 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brigantine, Brigantine, NJ
Posts: 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by djb383 View Post
Fan shroud intact/in place?
OK, I replaced my fan clutch, thermostat, water pump last year and haven't had any issues. I am always on the beach and it never goes past 220. While on the highway going 75 for a few miles it went up to 245. As I slowed down to my temp dropped back to 210. Any ideas why it would spike?

When I replaced my fan I did NOT for some reason put this on.
brigbeach is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cherokee , hot , overheating , xj
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.