Another axle swap/front 4-link - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-16-2013, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
that1guy123
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Another axle swap/front 4-link

I have an 87 XJ that is starting to fall apart. A while ago I picked up a D44 and D60 that came out of an 87 Chevy. Obviously, I want these under my Jeep along with a 6" - 7.5" lift. Pretend that money isn't an issue and neither is fabrication.

I know I can buy coil buckets and weld them on the front axle and use lift springs, but I don't want my articulation limited by a track bar. A triangulated 4-link is what I would like to do. The lower control arms will be easy, but I don't know where to start with the upper control arms. Can anyone provide examples or describe how it should be set up?

My second question is about the rear leaf springs. Can I use XJ lift springs and risk putting new mounts on the D60, or would it be worth the extra hour and dollar to 4-link the rear as well? How do I know what kind of u-joint to use between the axle and driveshaft?

I will reinforce the unibody and add a 4.8 stroker, and later on a Dodge NV4500 along with 4.88 gears and Detroit locker in the rear. I just want to upgrade the stuff that's breaking before I go off to San Diego for the Marine Corps.

Any links/references/advice would help. Thank you!

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-17-2013, 07:21 PM
ratmonkey
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they'd need to be triangulated, preferably double triangulated. you'll need more than 6" of lift to clear the motor with the upper arms like that. you'll also need to invest in full hydraulic steering. at this point you now have a trail rig only.

a good double shear track bar doesn't limit flex enough to worry about on a full bodied xj, you run out of shock travel or bind up the steering or drive shaft joints way before you bind the track bar up.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #3 of 6 Old 05-18-2013, 10:26 AM
ibjeepin95
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You won't be able to triangulate the front to ditch the track bar. Not enough room in the front to do so.


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post #4 of 6 Old 06-07-2013, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
that1guy123
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Full hydro, or would assisted be better? Is it very common for full hydro to fail? That's the only thing I would be worried about. What are the minimal lengths and angle between the control arms to get rid of the track bar, so what I'm asking is: why isn't there enough room?
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-07-2013, 08:46 PM
underpowered
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Full hydro is the easiest option when doing a flexy 4 link setup and will reduce bump steer. triangulated 4 link will have a vertical movement path with a small front/rear arc due to the links.

the current setup, parallel 4 link with panhard, not only has a front/rear arc but side to side due to the panhard. this lets you use th efactory style steering with little bump steer.

while Hydro is the Most common and easiest, it is not the only solution. take more time and fab, but you can run manual steering with 4 link and eliminate most bump steer. just gotta get creative.


otherwise. are you going for single or double triangulated? single maybe be easier if you triangulate only the lowers, double would be hard due to the oil pan and short wheel base of the XJ.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-07-2013, 08:52 PM
SFRautomotive
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are you set on trying to get rid of the front track bar? a properly set up front 3link w/ panhard with flex more than you will need

00XJ limited.....Tons, ORI's, Caged
92xj....Linked, Locked, Caged, Armored...RIP
what are leaf springs?
"You're what's wrong with America. You don't drink enough PBR and you probably run sway bars on the street. Fawking communist."-ibjeepin95
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