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Unread 09-06-2013, 10:19 PM   #1
noslime
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advice on ford 8.8 regear to 4.88 gears

I'm a noob so don't hassle me! Anyway, i have seen my question asked and the only answer was don't do it yourself. I am the kind of person that can pretty much do anything I try, and like to learn new things. Kinda makes up for the fact I'm very un-athletic and throw like a girl.. Anyway, I want to put a 8.8 Explorer rear on my Cherokee and upgrade to 4.88 gears. I plan on reading up on the subject and watching a few dvds. I've found most of what I need @summit racing to do it. My question is two fold:
1. What all should i replace and what weaknesses does this diff have? Should i go with limited slip?
2. Is there any point? Can I fit 35" with 15x10 rims and a 3" lift? I know that i need to cut my fenders, but does it have to be more than what Bushwackers can cover?
Any other options/opinions are welcome
Thanks!

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Unread 09-07-2013, 08:27 AM   #2
98muddyjeep
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First off some make/model/year/ engine/axle info would greatly increase your chances of getting some answers,yes you can do gears on your own with the right tools,but if you make a simple mistake it can be more trouble than its worth. I would change all the bearings make sure the vents are clean as or a locker or not how hard are you gonna wheel this jeep? An air locker is great for hard core stuff but expensive,a auto locker is good for almost everything but can sometimes suck on road. Plan on bumpstops and trimming a bit if you want 35's on 3" and bushwackers will cover nicely,try searching around a bit and see other peoples build threads and see what they have done you may go a route you never thought of.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 10:17 AM   #3
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noslime View Post
1. What all should i replace and what weaknesses does this diff have? Should i go with limited slip?
* Wheel bearings, oil seals
* Obviously the R&P kit, and full rebuild/ setup kit
* Weaknesses on the F8.8 are the limited slip carrier, axle tubes are prone to spinning on the housing (weld the tubes to housing -> problem solved), c-clip design is not exactly an issue, but is pretty much the only downside vs. D44
* If you plan to wheel this thing, don't even bother with an LSD. Get a selectable locker or a Detroit locker, or in minimum a Detroit truetrac. If you want to save some $$$, get an open diff and install a lunchbox locker.

Quote:
2. Is there any point? Can I fit 35" with 15x10 rims and a 3" lift? I know that i need to cut my fenders, but does it have to be more than what Bushwackers can cover?
Is there a point? Yes; F8.8s are cheaper than XJ D44s, overall are slightly stronger, has good aftermarket support like the D44s do. Downside is you need the leaf spring perches and other crap welded on the axle, but that same thing applies to any rear axle that does not come out from under an XJ.

35 x 12.50 on a 15 x 8 4" BS wheels does fit on 3" of lift if you trim the fenders enough, whack in some pinchweld seams and bumpstop around 2"-3" in the front. Rear cut & fold, front trimmed along the outer edge of the fender flare (or slightly higher). Using 35 x 12.50s on a 15 x 10 wheels will result in the tires sticking out 2" wider outside of the body line, which in turn may give you some headache with the clearance. I'd stick with 15 x 8 wheels, especially if you're not planning on using beadlocks.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 09-07-2013, 11:54 AM   #4
Diamond-x
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As Timo mentioned, the Limited Slip carrier is weaker than the open diff. This is moot if you plan to get a locker, which replaces that part.
I've not heard of a LS carrier breaking, they're just smaller than the open to fit the plates.
The Ford Explorer 1995-2001 has the axle with disk brakes. You should weld the axle tubes to the cast steel diff, pre heat with a slow cool down for best results.
Iron Rock offroad has a swap kit and truss for $200. You'll need a pinion flange from an Aerostar or Ranger for the proper u-joint fitment. or use the Explorer flange with a dual ftr u-joint.
I'm in the midst of this project myself.

Not sure about the 3" lift with 35's. You'll need to trim for sure.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 12:03 PM   #5
noslime
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What about regearing my 8.25 to a 4.88

I also found summit racing has a rack and pinion gear set for my 8.25.. Is that an option or am I asking for trouble? It would be cheaper than modifying a 8.8 no?
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Unread 09-07-2013, 01:28 PM   #6
Diamond-x
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noslime View Post
I also found summit racing has a rack and pinion gear set for my 8.25.. Is that an option or am I asking for trouble? It would be cheaper than modifying a 8.8 no?
The RING and pinion is a good option for your 8.25, cheaper and easier than the complete axle upgrade. However, the Ford 8.8 is stronger even than a Dana 44 and is the best solution for a bulletproof driveline.
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Unread 09-10-2013, 09:25 PM   #7
Mike934
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I'm rocking an 8.8 on 33s biggest regret is the giant lip. So I'm gonna weld in some 1/4" flat stock so kinda make it a step vs a huge lip...help it slide a bid more.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 02:06 AM   #8
Mighty Thor
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I am running 4.56 gears in my 8.8 and did the set up myself. You can see how I did it in my XJ build thread below my signature. I also installed an E locker. I am running 33 inch tires and had to go with 6 inches of lift and fender trimming to keep stuff from rubbing. I don't get real crazy, just off road at the farm. I don't think you can run 33s on 3 inches of lift without some radical cutting in the back.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 02:41 AM   #9
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty Thor View Post
I don't think you can run 33s on 3 inches of lift without some radical cutting in the back.
I ran 35s on 4" lift, rear cut 'n fold - rears stuffed so that I had flat leafs riding on bumpstops by the time tires were just about the catch the wheel openings.

On the front, if you want really good uptravel with 33s or 35s on around 3-4" lift, you better take out the sawzall, some sheetmetal and a welder to make room under the battery tray and stock airbox. It works with 35s and some bumpstopping though, without seriously limited uptravel (IIRC I had around 3.75"-4" uptravel at ride height).

I can't say this amount of flex on 4" true lift, 35s, long arms and around 2" added bumpstops is too bad (would've been the same on 3" lift, running 33s):

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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:46 PM   #10
Mike934
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I'm running 3" and 33x10.5s currently...actually I'm dropping ins down some. I have custom deavers with a 7.5" long shackle, with HD no lift relocators for the rear. Up front is a RE 3.5" coil with adjustable arms and drop brackets. I'm going to drop the front down about an inch since its sitting higher than the rear currently by around. 1". Ill post a pic I snapped yesterday. My rigs a build in process still.


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[QUOTE=Motorcharge;15252353]Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?[/QUOTE]
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Unread 09-11-2013, 12:49 PM   #11
Mike934
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This pic make its look taller because only the tires on the driver side are on, so its leaning a it making the gap at the wheel wells bigger. The first pic is how it truly is. Even still you can see he fronts taller, and my basic ride height.


I'm 6'1 and am still taller than my jeeps roofline. The roofline on my 93 2500 4x4 suburban on 235/85/16s is actually a few inches taller still. Again that's at the top of the roof.
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[QUOTE=Motorcharge;15252353]Overlanders do it over land via overlanding because they like to overland?[/QUOTE]
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