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Unread 05-03-2011, 03:47 PM   #1
abidingcrawdad
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1995 FSJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Prior Lake, MN
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'95 Cherokee Sport(2DR) Tail/Running Lights

Recently I towed a trailer for a friend, ever since fuse 15 has been blowing(takes about 10-15 minutes to blow) I used the trailer wires on the tow-job, they hadn't ever been used during my ownership.

So; now the tail lights and running lights won't work, I replace the fuse and they work, but I don't get what the deal is.

It looks like some one who had the Jeep before me replaced the trailer plug(shoddily) so I snipped that off and sealed the wires, put a new fuse in; it blew again.

Headlights, Brakelights, and turn signals all work fine; I'm stumped.

I would greatly appreciate any help at all, getting a bit frustrating

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Unread 05-03-2011, 07:29 PM   #2
keepishop
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Try a bigger fuse, maybe a 20?

As things get old the wires corrode and cause more resistance. My power seats in my old jeep came with a 5, but would blow the fuse every now and then. A 10 fixed it.

If it was a full on short circuit, the fuse would be blowing instantly anyway.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 02:58 PM   #3
abidingcrawdad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keepishop View Post
Try a bigger fuse, maybe a 20?

As things get old the wires corrode and cause more resistance. My power seats in my old jeep came with a 5, but would blow the fuse every now and then. A 10 fixed it.

If it was a full on short circuit, the fuse would be blowing instantly anyway.
I tried a bigger fuse, it keeps blowing, online it says I should have a 15(I've seen...) but mine's always had a 20. I tried a 25 and it blew anyways.. It's been almost 2 months, don't have money to bring it in so I have to do this myself.

I've checked the tail/driving light sockets and bulbs, everything seems alright there..

Anything else I could try? thanks a million
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Unread 05-23-2011, 10:40 PM   #4
keepishop
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Is it a uhaul (or whatever) tow harness, or a stock one? I know mine is connected with a bunch of hacky splices, yours might be too. Try just removing it.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 10:42 PM   #5
sbxj
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you've got a short somewhere
putting a bigger fuse in is the worst advice
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Unread 05-24-2011, 11:24 AM   #6
abidingcrawdad
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Right on sbxj, I'm trying what is recomended; ignorance, heh...

keepishop; it was just a regular crap-job trailer wire harness, I've already removed it and sealed the wires, still popping the fuse, it doesn't pop right away though.. it can sit and idle for a while, but when I drive it, it blows after about 5 minutes or less.
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Unread 05-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #7
keepishop
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Right on sbxj, I'm trying what is recomended; ignorance, heh...

keepishop; it was just a regular crap-job trailer wire harness, I've already removed it and sealed the wires, still popping the fuse, it doesn't pop right away though.. it can sit and idle for a while, but when I drive it, it blows after about 5 minutes or less.
Does it blow if you are idling and push the brake pedal?
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Unread 05-24-2011, 02:31 PM   #8
abidingcrawdad
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nope, only when I'm driving it seems. while idling; I can hit the brakes, turn them off and on and it doesn't pop, when I start driving it doesn't take long at all
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Unread 05-24-2011, 09:17 PM   #9
keepishop
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nope, only when I'm driving it seems. while idling; I can hit the brakes, turn them off and on and it doesn't pop, when I start driving it doesn't take long at all
Try popping out all of the bulbs and go for a quick drive. If it doesn't blow, then you have a place to start looking at the wiring harness.

I'm thinking maybe you have an exposed wire in the harness that hits body metal when you are driving.
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Unread 05-25-2011, 07:34 PM   #10
abidingcrawdad
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tried that, and put in one bulb at a time; so now it's isolated to the passenger tail-light. replaced the socket, still popping though...

where is a likely spot it could be rubbing through? the insulation at the rear looks just fine, the wires are all happy.. driving me insane
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Unread 05-25-2011, 10:20 PM   #11
keepishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abidingcrawdad View Post
tried that, and put in one bulb at a time; so now it's isolated to the passenger tail-light. replaced the socket, still popping though...

where is a likely spot it could be rubbing through? the insulation at the rear looks just fine, the wires are all happy.. driving me insane
At that point, I would just give up and run wires from the driver side tail light to the passenger side. haha

Test the supply and ground wires on both sides and make sure they match. I bet they don't. Someone with more electronics know-how could probably tell you more.
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Current: Black 89 limited, dakota bastard pack, zj coils, 1.5" lift, open cooling swap, bronco 2 carrier, rad fan switch
Rest in Pieces: Red 1990 cherokee dana30/8.25 - v8 zj coils & s10 bastard pack 2.5" lift - 31x10.5r15 tires - v8 zj tierod

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Unread 05-25-2011, 10:46 PM   #12
sbxj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abidingcrawdad View Post
tried that, and put in one bulb at a time; so now it's isolated to the passenger tail-light. replaced the socket, still popping though...

where is a likely spot it could be rubbing through? the insulation at the rear looks just fine, the wires are all happy.. driving me insane
I recall having a short at the tailight in a '93 and it was where the rubber boot enters the body.
everything may look fine but it could be a small cut in a wire making contact to another wire. Have you exposed all the wires in the harness?
good luck!
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Unread 05-26-2011, 09:13 AM   #13
bro-quo
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I have a '94 2dr and was having the same problem. Kept blowing the fuse for turn signals, running lights and dash/gauge lamps every time i turned the ignition on while the headlamps, brake lights, and reverse lights were not affected. The issue turned out to be the trailer lamp harness and upon cutting it out and replacing it the problem was no more.
0502110007bresize.jpg  
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Unread 05-26-2011, 01:33 PM   #14
JWELK
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If the fuse only opens when driving, I'm thinking something is getting hot. Check for wires that could be near the exhaust or chafing on the drive shaft.
To prove this, put the tail lights on w/o the engine running, you may need a charger or another car nearby to jump. Then let the engine idle and see if opens at this time. Purchase a "test socket with combo brake and tail lamp. Tack solder the black socket lead to one side of one your blown fuses. Solder a piece of wire to the other side of the blown fuse. Install the lamp in the socket and wrap one of the leads to the pigtail. Insert this device in the tail lamp fuse position. The test socket lamp should dimly light and the tail light bulbs should also light dimly. When the short appears, your test light will light normal and your taillights will go out. The taillight section of your test fixture will allow less current, the brake will allow more and both wires connected will allow even more current. Carefully wiggle the wire harness around until an observer tells you your test fixture has turned off. This procedure allows you to troubleshoot the circuit without going thru boxes of fuses. I have also substituted a small "sonalert" (back up alarm, but softer) for single person troubleshooting. The noise does get annoying after a very short while. As the lightbulbs limit the current flow, this prevents the penny in fuse box scenario.

Ever hear about the guy with a similar problem? This was in the days when they had glass fuses, at any rate he discovered that a .22 long rifle was a good substitute for a blown fuse. Worked fine for awhile. I understand it was only minor surgery to have the slug removed form his leg. I would imagine his ego has yet to recover.

Regards,

Jim W

That's what a Jeep is, you know. It's not just tires a tub and an engine; that's what a Jeep needs. Not what a Jeep is. What a YJ really is, is freedom.

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1995 , cherokee sport , driving lights , not working , tail lights

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