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Unread 08-25-2011, 10:45 PM   #1
mrwhite
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6.5in lift

I'm looking into the Rough country 6.5in x-series kit, it comes with a transfer case drop. I am wondering if I really need an SYE or should I just wait until I know for sure it's going to vibrate unbearably? If anyone has any suggestions on other lifts I should look at, I'm trying to keep it below $1000 (preferably WELL BELOW :P ) for just the lift. I'd like to run 33s or 34s, hell even 32s if they are way cheaper. 3in seems pointless and for less than $100 more than the 4.5, I can get the 6.5in (unless I go with the rusty's 4.5in). These tires are going to go on stock rims that look suspiciously like these:


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Unread 08-26-2011, 01:19 AM   #2
nrpalmer32
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With that large of tire on stock wheels, you should look into some nice wheel spacers then. I've heard that you will rub your tires on the LCA at full lock. Or purchase some wheels with 3.75" BS or 4" BS to hopefully not rub
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Unread 08-26-2011, 02:35 AM   #3
chris87xj
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I can't tell what year XJ you're working on, but at 6.5" of lift you're going to want a SYE or wear out parts. At 4.5" lift it might be negotiable, but still preferable.
I can't tell how wide of tire you're considering but anything wider than 9.5" may be subject to rubbing control arms with stock backspaced rims. The wider the tire, the more noticeable it becomes.

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Unread 08-26-2011, 06:32 AM   #4
foggybottombob
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I have a 4.5" lift on short control arms. I would not want to run 6.5" without going to long arms. That is the biggest difference between 4.5 and 6.5 inches for an XJ.

Short arms on a 6.5" lift will sound like something is hitting the body with a bat every time a front tire hits a pothole on the road. I don't know what the rear lift in your kit consists of but I highly recommend getting a shackle relocation bracket so that you can fix the rear shackle angle. A vertical rear shackle makes the same body pounding noises in the rear. If you leave the stock shackle mount and put on a longer shackle it will likely wind up being vertical.

Note that I have had both conditions described above before settling on a 4.5" lift myself. The only reason to lift a suspension is to clear tires. If you have 32's they will fit a 4.5" lift with no fender trimming. Tires bigger than 32's require either trimming or bigger lift.
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Unread 08-26-2011, 08:31 AM   #5
mrwhite
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It's a 98 with the 8.25 chrysler axle. I didn't really want to spend another $200 on an SYE and then another $300 on a new driveshaft.
Maybe I'll just go 4.5in then...
Unless there are more options?
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Unread 08-26-2011, 08:57 AM   #6
Timo_90xj
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If you're going to run 32s or 33s, there is absolutely no reason going higher than 4.5" - especially so because you're willing to keep it as simple and cheap as possible. Usually you will need a SYE + double cardan joint drisvesahft, but as mentioned you may get lucky and be able to run stock stuff with a TC drop. You will loose some much needed belly clearance with a TC drop though.

As far as ride quality and flex, I would never go above 4.5" with short arms and no drop brackets. Even 4.5 inches with (adjustable) short arms without drop brackets is a pretty bad ride IMO. When I changed from short arm to long arms on my ~4" lift, the difference in ride quality was HUGE.

Stock wheels and 12.50 wide tires, you will rub the LCAs.
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Unread 08-26-2011, 09:17 AM   #7
XJmallcruiser
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Im at 8" witha transfer case drop... Just throwing it out there... Not reccomendig it though... If you have the np242 t-case get the IRO hack an tap its $200 for the yoke an rebuilt frnt ds
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Unread 08-26-2011, 05:58 PM   #8
mrwhite
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Does anyone else make a 5.5in besides IRO?

I didn't really want to get new wheels, but if I have to then I have to, rusty's has a whole 4.5in kit for $1630.

I don't really care about ride quality. This isn't my primary mode of transportation lol. And if the TC drop only causes you to lose 1in of clearance bfd. haha
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Unread 08-27-2011, 08:51 AM   #9
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Go with a 4.5 lift most end up being 5". Sure a 6.5 lift cost just a little more to buy but to actually run it it will cost alot in the end. I ran my 4.5 re lift with out a sye for a while but you could hear the ujoints hating themselves lol put the sye in and all better.
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Unread 08-27-2011, 01:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mindless View Post
Go with a 4.5 lift most end up being 5". Sure a 6.5 lift cost just a little more to buy but to actually run it it will cost alot in the end. I ran my 4.5 re lift with out a sye for a while but you could hear the ujoints hating themselves lol put the sye in and all better.
Were you running a tcase drop or not?
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Unread 08-27-2011, 01:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
I can't tell what year XJ you're working on, but at 6.5" of lift you're going to want a SYE or wear out parts. At 4.5" lift it might be negotiable, but still preferable.
I can't tell how wide of tire you're considering but anything wider than 9.5" may be subject to rubbing control arms with stock backspaced rims. The wider the tire, the more noticeable it becomes.

what lift is this and what size tires?
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Unread 08-27-2011, 06:16 PM   #12
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Let me throw this out there for you.
6.5" of lift and wanting to spend under $1000 should not be in the same paragraph, never mind sentence!
The RC kit is cheap for a reason, it is made of cheap parts that will only marginally perform, if you are lucky.
At 6.5" you NEED long arms, new steering and so on. I know someone out there runs 15" of lift on short arms, doesnt have a SYE, runs stock steering, and so on, but that doesn't make it right or safe.
Do yourself a massive favor and run a 4.5" lift system (notice I didnt say "kit") that is within your budget. Go with a good brand, or piece it together with good parts.
You never mentioned what terrain/type of wheeling you hope to do. This is a big factor in decision making. If you are going to daily drive it and want to look "cool", then make your life easier and buy quality.
RC exists for the single reason of people wanting to fit a @35" tire for the least amount of money, and damned the consequences.
I can offer anyone a test drive in my rig on 37's, and guarantee it rides just as good if not better than a bone stock rig. This is because it's suspension, steering and brakes are all thoroughly thought out, and not skimped on.
A SYE is a requirement IMHO. Especially if the drive shaft angles are going to be completely screwed up. A lot nicer being able to run in 4wd hi with the rear drive shaft removed than calling a tow truck or blowing up a transfer case isn't it?
Sorry to be long winded, just want to save you some money and be safe on the road. Buy it right the first time and then be happy with the results.

Martin
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Unread 08-27-2011, 10:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
Let me throw this out there for you.
6.5" of lift and wanting to spend under $1000 should not be in the same paragraph, never mind sentence!
The RC kit is cheap for a reason, it is made of cheap parts that will only marginally perform, if you are lucky.
At 6.5" you NEED long arms, new steering and so on. I know someone out there runs 15" of lift on short arms, doesnt have a SYE, runs stock steering, and so on, but that doesn't make it right or safe.
Do yourself a massive favor and run a 4.5" lift system (notice I didnt say "kit") that is within your budget. Go with a good brand, or piece it together with good parts.
You never mentioned what terrain/type of wheeling you hope to do. This is a big factor in decision making. If you are going to daily drive it and want to look "cool", then make your life easier and buy quality.
RC exists for the single reason of people wanting to fit a @35" tire for the least amount of money, and damned the consequences.
I can offer anyone a test drive in my rig on 37's, and guarantee it rides just as good if not better than a bone stock rig. This is because it's suspension, steering and brakes are all thoroughly thought out, and not skimped on.
A SYE is a requirement IMHO. Especially if the drive shaft angles are going to be completely screwed up. A lot nicer being able to run in 4wd hi with the rear drive shaft removed than calling a tow truck or blowing up a transfer case isn't it?
Sorry to be long winded, just want to save you some money and be safe on the road. Buy it right the first time and then be happy with the results.

Martin
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Unread 08-28-2011, 02:06 AM   #14
Timo_90xj
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6.5" requires quite a lot more than just installing coils, leafs and shocks. RC kit is far from being complete. Actually, I've never seen a 6.5" lift kit that includes all the necessary parts..
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Unread 08-28-2011, 05:50 PM   #15
leftlanetruckin
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Originally Posted by alexrule123 View Post
Where do I sign up for this?
Anytime you find yourself in Missouri or anytime you see me on a trail, feel free to come on over
We also have a built in RTI ramp at the house too.....
truck2.jpg

Very true that there is no COMPLETE 6.5" "kit" out there so far as I know.
I would much rather see/buy/own/drive by a well thought out and complete 3-4.5" lifted XJ than a 6.5" lifted death trap.
I have yet to run a "steering stabilizer" on any of my rigs. All they do is mask a problem. Thus why I can drive the rigs at 70+MPH on any roads without worry. Hell my wife and kids spend more time in the XJ than anything else we have, so it HAS to be right IMHO.

Martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

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