Long time reader first time poster here...done tons of searching on the forum and outside sources but I can't seem to find an answer.
Working on my 89 XJ and I found out the 4 wheel drive works in 4 low but NOT in 4 high. I know that 90% of xj 4x4 problems are caused by vacuum lines but I don't think this is the issue here since 4 low definitely works and 4 high does not.
I pulled off the shift fork and everything is intact there. Since the 4 low is working I'm afraid it might be a more serious/expensive issue.
Any help, insight or links would be greatly appreciated.
on a side note.... where do i refill the shift fork oil from?
Last edited by Eighty9XJ; 04-17-2010 at 07:29 PM..
I would start by making sure that the transfer case linkage is adjusted properly. Someone else ought to be able to quote the correct method for that.
"Dee", a Patriot Blue 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L High-Output PicturesBuild Thread The Rocket Sheep "Live Free Or Die; Death Is Not The Worst of Evils." -General John Stark
Originally Posted by speedbucket
perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
Originally Posted by Millermagic
It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
vacum does NOT affect the TC shifting. If it works in 4lo but not in 4hi it is NOT the vaccum. Look at the linkage or some other internal problem with the TC. The vacum only disconnects the front axel. But you should check it or convert to the cable axel lock or install solid axels.
When you jacked up the front end and spun it in 4hi did the front driveshaft spin too? Or better yet, with the front jacked up and in 4hi try to rotate the front driveshaft by hand. If you can, then you have internal TC problems. It should be locked with the rear driveshaft in 4hi and since the rear tires are on the ground you shouldn't be able to rotate it.
is it lifted at all or totally stock? my '87 lost 4WD when I lifted and did a trans/tc drop. i could get it into 4Hi by going into 4Lo but thought I was only in 4Lo. just an inch can throw off the whole linkage.
you can always pull the tc and have a look inside, i have plenty of photos of how it ought to look and several links if you need them. it is a little tedious.
you can also disconnect the linkage and tc and shift it with your hand by grasping the metal tab that connects to the linkage. i've done this to get in and out of 4WD before.
the vacuum lines only control the disco on your front axle...
'87 XJ Pioneer with 32" KM2s, etc.
The transfer case is not all that complicated, For some decent pictures do searches for installing the slip yoke eliminators. You basically have to open the transfer case, take it apart, replace some of the pieces and then put it back together same as in a repair.
Also remember that in an open differential vehicle the wheels will turn even if the driveshaft is locked (4wheel drive engaged) If you want to know if the transfer case is engaged, try turning the drive shaft as stated by an earlier post.
Is that supposed to look like that?
you can see where the long rod (part of the linkage) connects to the metal tab on the right side of the picture. that's the tab i'm talking about.
in this picture the tcase is the reverse of how it's installed on the vehicle. the output yoke on the bottom of the pic is the front output yoke.
also you can have someone move the shift lever while you watch the linkage from underneath. you can hear the tcase clink into position...if it doesn't do that when the shifter is moved it's probably your linkage.
this happened to me. red arrow is the bracket on the frame and the blue points to the pin that allows the linkage to pivot properly. the green is the support tab on the tcase, not the shifting tab.
'87 XJ Pioneer with 32" KM2s, etc.