[jebmccall]

hey im running a combination of rustys and RE. my setup is rustys 3 inch HD coils, RE SF2 adj. lowers, RE SF2 fixed uppers, RE 16000 Tracbar, for the rear i run rustys 2 inch leafs with their 2 inch tapered block, rustys hydro shocks1 inch t-case drop, C1500 brake lines, and the total invested is like 700. it flexs really good, rides great and handles decent even with no sway bars

im running 33x12.50s with stock or lack of bump stops and it does rub in the rear at full stuff and a little up front since i have trimmed. id say ive taken .75 inchs off up front and up to the pinch welds in the rear

[jebmccall]

yeah the big difference between the 4.5 and the 6.5 is that you have to do alot more with the 6.5, over teh knuckle is a definite, SYE and CV rear drive shaft, and with 35s you will want to upgrade the brakes. this is why i stayed with 4.5. only thing im going to do to the steering is new HD tir rod and draglink

[Crewdude007]

Originally Posted by jebmccall

yeah the big difference between the 4.5 and the 6.5 is that you have to do alot more with the 6.5, over teh knuckle is a definite...

^6.5"+ definitely requires more!

You don't have to go OTK, but you do have to upgrade the steering somehow. The stock steering simply won't do anymore. OTK steering usually requires modifying the coil buckets and relocating the sway bar mounts. That can be a lot of work, especially if you don't plan on keeping the front axle for very long.

[jebmccall]

yeah i jsut could not remember what all is required, i know SYE is obvious, otk is best, dropped t-case or i inch drop crossmember, long arms are highly suggested over 4.5, and thats all i can think of. thats why im at 4.5