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Unread 09-03-2010, 07:12 AM   #61
the6nightmares
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Got it all back together last night, and the aforementioned hole is on my head as well. So I bought a little plug, lo and behold it was seeping coolant. So back to the parts store today to get a tighter fit.

She started right up, first attempt. Made a little noise, although I poured oil all over the new components before installing the valve cover, so I'm sure that helped. I still have what sounds like a slight tap, possibly the lifters which I opted not to replace. I found contradicting information about that so chose to remain with the originals. I hope I don't regret that. Will add more info after my testing tonight.

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Unread 09-03-2010, 08:17 AM   #62
irs009
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Ta Da...Good work man! Wanna do mine when it goes bad?.....just jokin, be proud.
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Unread 09-03-2010, 09:34 AM   #63
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the6nightmares View Post
Got it all back together last night, and the aforementioned hole is on my head as well. So I bought a little plug, lo and behold it was seeping coolant. So back to the parts store today to get a tighter fit.

She started right up, first attempt. Made a little noise, although I poured oil all over the new components before installing the valve cover, so I'm sure that helped. I still have what sounds like a slight tap, possibly the lifters which I opted not to replace. I found contradicting information about that so chose to remain with the originals. I hope I don't regret that. Will add more info after my testing tonight.
How tight did you tighten the rockers? I know 19ft/lbs is the spec but my torque wrench starts at 25 so I had to guess more or less with mine. When I started it up it was quiet until the whole issue of my lack of oil pressure reared it's ugly head Also every 4.0 I have seen/ owned has always had some sort of ticking.
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Unread 09-03-2010, 12:52 PM   #64
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The wrench I have is old school needle type, it starts at 0. They were torqued to 20, or whatever the spec in the FSM said.
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Unread 09-08-2010, 07:31 PM   #65
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[IMG]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo67/poisonthewizzle/IMG_3147.jpg?t=128399499

4.0 Head Removal

(it should be noted that I did this repair in the garage with hand tools, and no engine hoist. There may be better methods for some of the steps, but this was how I did it, and it all worked out well. Please take this information as a guide, and do not attempt any repair you are not comfortable with.)

Straight from the FSM

1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Drain the coolant, pet**** located behind passenger side headlight
a. Disconnect hoses at thermostat housing and water pump


(Thermostat connections)


(Get rags ready, there will be coolant in the hoses)


(Pet**** Access)




(Drain into bucket)


3. Remove the air cleaner assembly
4. Remove the engine cylinder head cover




(note the stud locations to replace injector wire retainer)



5. Remove capscrews, bridge and pivot assemblies, and remove rocker arms



6. Remove the push rods
a. It should be noted that if reusing the push rods, rockers, capscrews, bridges and pivots, they should be retained in the same order in which they were removed; reinstallation in the same location is imperative


(rods and rockers removed)
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Unread 09-08-2010, 07:42 PM   #66
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7. Loosen the serp belt at the idler pulley


(tension bolt located just above bracket bolt)

8. Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor (4 on top of compressor) set aside




9. Remove the A/C compressor bracket bolts from the cylinder head





10. Loosen the through bolt at the bottom of the bracket (located against the block)

11. Disconnect the power steering pump bracket, set pump aside, do not disconnect lines. (3 bolts holding pump in place)






(Located on the front of the pump/ bracket)

12. Perform fuel system pressure release procedure. (remove fuel filler cap, locate the pressure release valve on fuel rail, surround with paper towels, or shop rags. Using the special tool or a small pick, remove the cap and depress the inside pin to release pressure)






13. Remove the fuel line (the connector to the rail will require a special quick release tool)






14. Disconnect all connectors, fuel injectors, oxygen sensors, MAP, etc etc









15. Disconnect all vacuum lines from the manifold

16. Disconnect throttle cable bracket
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Unread 09-08-2010, 07:52 PM   #67
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17. Remove spark plug wires or coil pack depending on setup




This is where my instructions differ from the manual:

The exhaust manifold bolts located on the underside of the manifold are extremely difficult to reach. I have been told they are accessible with a number of extensions and universal joints, although I was unsuccessful in that aspect. 4,2,1,5,7 are the underside bolts that are difficult to reach




I opted not to disconnect at the precat connection because of the difficulty to get a wrench on. The preferred method was to unbolt the down pipe from the exhaust pipe.



10 years and 100,000 miles had caused the bolts to rust and shrink, rendering them impossible to remove. I used a saws-all and cut the pipe AFTER the flange, and decided to pull the head with intake exhaust and down pipe attached.







18. Once ready to remove the entire unit, or just the head depending on your method, locate the 14 head bolts. 12 pt, deep set inch.

a. If the bolts have been removed before (indicated by a pain dab) replace the head bolts (I replaced mine anyway)





19. The no 14 bolt, farthest back on driver’s side is unable to be removed due to the cowl.

a. Loosen the bolt, and pull it upward and tape around the bolt holding it in place





20. Once the head bolts are removed you are ready for removal.

21. Double check that all connections have been disconnected, prepare for removal

22. As mentioned, I pulled the head with manifolds and down pipes attached

a. I do not have an engine hoist: taking a length of chain, I screwed it into the head through the capscrew holes. Make sure the chain is long enough to get a bar under it without hitting the fenders

b. We used a 5.5ft iron pry bar weighing 50lbs or so. Place the bar under the chain, one man on each side of the front end near the tires, gently lift straight up, using a 3rd person at the front to guide the unit, and we used a 4th under the jeep to help guide the down pipe out around the motor mounts
















23. Once out, disconnect the manifold bolts, the dowels and the studs mounted to the old head






24. The dowels can be removed by gripping with vise grips and tapping out with a rubber mallet, the studs can be removed with a socket

25. Insert the new spark plugs into the new head

26. Check the valve seal by pouring a small quantity of fuel into the cylinder to insure a tight seal
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Unread 09-08-2010, 08:00 PM   #68
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27. Place the new manifold gasket on the head and reattach the manifolds to the new head.

28. Clean engine block top of old gasket, using a razor for optimal cleanliness

29. Wipe any oil, coolant, or other debris off the piston tops






30. Use a tap down the block bolt holes to insure clean threads, and use either a shop vac to suck, or an air compressor to blow any debris out of the holes

31. Place new head gasket on the top of the block, making sure it is aligned properly on the indexing pins

32. Lower head and connected parts slowly down in place (remembering to place the no 14 bolt in the head, taped up to keep out of the way)

33. Once the head is in place, insure alignment and place head bolts in place, making sure the stud bolts are in the correct locations.








34. Follow the specs to tighten the head down





a. Tighten in sequence 1-14 to 22ft lbs

b. Tighten all in sequence 1-14 to 45ft lbs

c. Check all bolts to verify they are set to 45ft lbs

d. Tighten bolts in sequence 1-10 to 110ft lbs

e. Bolt 11 to 13 100ft lbs

f. Bolts 12 through 14 to 110ft lbs

g. Check all bolts in sequence to verify tightness

h. The no 14 bolt will require an extension and universal to get a correct angle for tightness

35. Place push rods carefully into the same location they were removed, making sure they are placed correctly in the lifter

36. Place the rockers in the correct location placing the bridges and pivots in place.

37. Finger tighten cap screws, tighten to 21ft lbs, switching from one screw to the next at each turn to eliminate damage to bridge





38. Place new valve cover gasket in place, pour oil over new components to lubricate for first start up

39. Replace valve cover

40. Reconnect injectors, and other connectors, as well as vacuum lines.

41. Reconnect Throttle cables

42. Reattach fuel line

43. Reattach the A/C compressor bracket bolts

44. Install Compressor

45. Install Power steering pump

46. Install belt, and tighten

47. Install plug wires/ coil pack

48. Reconnect exhaust (weld in my situation)

49. Make sure all connections are connected

50. Fill with oil

51. Fill with coolant

52. Start up and check for leaks and make sure oil pressure, engine temp and all operations are normal. Enjoy
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Unread 09-08-2010, 08:09 PM   #69
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Couple extra photos




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Unread 09-08-2010, 09:06 PM   #70
thakoolaidkid
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Wow man, good writeup. Makes me think I could do it to mine if it came down to it. How much was it for all the parts you used?
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Unread 09-08-2010, 09:37 PM   #71
alexrule123
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Nice write up! When I did mine I didn't remove the whole AC bracket, I just removed the two bolts that attach it to the head with a box end wrench. I also had to fabricate a socket to fit for the number 14 bolt by cutting a socket shorter and drilling out the inside of it so it would fit over the stud...fun times....
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Unread 09-09-2010, 07:06 AM   #72
the6nightmares
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I did not remove the bracket entirely, just the top 2 bolts into the head, and loosen the bolt into the block just so it had a little play to it.

That socket fabrication crossed my mind as well. All in, parts prices

Clearwater Cylinder Head $425
head gasket $35
manifold gasket $22
tstat and gasket $9
push rods $40
rockers $50
pivots $25
bridges $12
serp belt $25
head bolts $30
oil $12
filter $5
coolant $10

Total parts plus misc expenses, (exhaust bolts, deep set socket, shop rags, light bulbs) $700 ish
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Unread 09-09-2010, 08:02 AM   #73
alexrule123
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That's not bad at all. I already had a head and it still ended up costing me around $210 and that was with re-using the push rods and rockers.
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Unread 09-09-2010, 09:46 AM   #74
the6nightmares
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Wish I could have gotten off that cheap. I had a noise recently develop on start up, a nice tapping sound. I was afraid it was a lifter, but I did not replace them and the noise is gone. When I checked the old rockers, the capscrews were tight to spec and you could grab the rocker arm and move it laterally (pull toward grill/ push toward windshield) and cause a tap sound. I think I had worn parts with 100,000 miles on them. Figured why not for the slight increase in expense might as well, eleminates having to replace them down the road.
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Unread 09-09-2010, 10:38 AM   #75
alexrule123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the6nightmares View Post
Wish I could have gotten off that cheap. I had a noise recently develop on start up, a nice tapping sound. I was afraid it was a lifter, but I did not replace them and the noise is gone. When I checked the old rockers, the capscrews were tight to spec and you could grab the rocker arm and move it laterally (pull toward grill/ push toward windshield) and cause a tap sound. I think I had worn parts with 100,000 miles on them. Figured why not for the slight increase in expense might as well, eleminates having to replace them down the road.
Well I actually had to spend $200 twice since I had to buy all new gaskets and new head bolts ($30 is worth the extra piece of mind that it would work the first time) when I had to do the engine swap. So I did the head replacement twice...fun times...
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