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Unread 08-28-2010, 12:39 AM   #1
Empty_Pockets
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4.0 to 4.0 H.O. swap....newb questions

I just bought a 1990 cherokee, and on the way home the head gasket went. Now the motor 4.0 NON H.O. and trans have 205k and the motor also had some bad piston slap. I would rather not build the motor. The truck is Uber clean and I got it cheap. I found a complete 1996 4.0 H.O. motor and trans from the junkyard with 80k for $250 is this a direct plug and play swap?

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Unread 08-28-2010, 03:13 AM   #2
Timo_90xj
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Short answer:

No, not a direct swap, find a renix engine from '87-'90 XJs.



Long answer:

Nope, it's not a direct swap. You've got a Renix engine, so the computers (both ECU/TCU) and the sensors and engine wiring harness is different from the HO engines. Intake/ exhaust manifolds are different, and the heads aren't a direct swap due to that. Also the tranny/ tc spline count is different, 21 on renix, 23 spline on the HOs.

IIRC you can use ho block + head + manifolds and bolt in the renix sensors, but there a few things you gotta take into account if you do so. One thing is there is no knock sensor on the HO blocks, and I'm not sure how easily you can make the renix knock sensor work on the HO block (if at all). Other thing is Renix thottle body is mounted using 3 bolts, HO is 4 bolts - you gotta make an adapter plate to make them work. I also don't remember about fuel rail, IMO it should work, but it's possible fuel rail mounts and bolt holes do not line up between renix/ho.

All in all, it is much easier to just look for a renix engine, or rebuild the one you have now. Why not making it a stroker while at it?
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 08-28-2010, 04:27 AM   #3
cruiser54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Short answer:

No, not a direct swap, find a renix engine from '87-'90 XJs.



Long answer:

Nope, it's not a direct swap. You've got a Renix engine, so the computers (both ECU/TCU) and the sensors and engine wiring harness is different from the HO engines. Intake/ exhaust manifolds are different, and the heads aren't a direct swap due to that. Also the tranny/ tc spline count is different, 21 on renix, 23 spline on the HOs.

IIRC you can use ho block + head + manifolds and bolt in the renix sensors, but there a few things you gotta take into account if you do so. One thing is there is no knock sensor on the HO blocks, and I'm not sure how easily you can make the renix knock sensor work on the HO block (if at all). Other thing is Renix thottle body is mounted using 3 bolts, HO is 4 bolts - you gotta make an adapter plate to make them work. I also don't remember about fuel rail, IMO it should work, but it's possible fuel rail mounts and bolt holes do not line up between renix/ho.

All in all, it is much easier to just look for a renix engine, or rebuild the one you have now. Why not making it a stroker while at it?
Absolutely wrong info posted here. This is the typical post we see from those who have never done the swap. It is incredibly easy and has been done many times. Snatch up that HO and we'll guide you through the process if you need any help. Tear the HO down to long block form and swap your stuff over. Be sure to use your distributor, flywheel/flexplate, intake and exhaust manifolds, sensors, accessories and their respective mounts.
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Unread 08-28-2010, 07:49 AM   #4
Timo_90xj
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I wasn't giving any wrong info. Of course you can swap almost everything from the renix engine to the HO, but it really isn't a direct swap in that case, is it?

I'm still about 95% sure that the port locations and shapes on renix and HO heads/ manifolds don't line-up perfectly, although they can be installed to each other IIRC. I've seen both side by side (that was about three years ago though) and I'm pretty darn sure the heads are a little different. Manifolds I'm 100% sure that they are not the same on these engines.

As we both wrote, almost everything is different between HO/ Renix engines sensor- wise along with intake and exhaust manifolds, flexplate/flywheel, distributor, etc.. Swapping everything from an engine to another is easy and straightforward, and can be done in a day. But if you're looking at a direct swap, you simply CANNOT bolt in a complete HO engine to your renix Jeep and be done with it. Simple as that.

edit: The great thing about the Jeep I6 enignes is that you can pretty freely mix & match a lot of stuff from the early 4.2s up to the last 4.0s built for '06 model year. But not everything is a direct bolt- on or a swap, and some mods may need to be done to have the parts and/or accessories to mount correctly.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 08-28-2010, 08:09 AM   #5
Empty_Pockets
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Thanks for the input guys....Im looking to throw away the entire motor in the truck cuz of the miles, an dissues it has, just wanna remove and install a diffrent motor and run it.
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Unread 08-28-2010, 08:34 AM   #6
Timo_90xj
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Are you looking at getting a complete engine with all the accessories/ manifolds, or just the long block? If you're only getting a long block, then it doesn't matter much whether you get a renix or HO. Renix block is slightly stronger, all HO heads flow better.

If you decide to buy a HO motor, make sure to look how well the renix manifold/ HO head ports line up. IIRC the difference isn't that huge, but like I wrote it's been a few years since I saw the heads side-by-side.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 08-28-2010, 11:43 AM   #7
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I found a great deal on a complete 4.0 ho and I already have a complete 4.0 so can I make this work?
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Unread 08-28-2010, 05:05 PM   #8
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The ports are off by less than 3/16". Use the Renix intake/exhaust gasket. It's all plug and play and nothing to fear at all. Been there and done that as many others have. You'll be fine. Grab that cheap HO before someone else does. No worries. Need help, post up or private email.
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Unread 08-28-2010, 11:10 PM   #9
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Do I have to change the intake/exhaust manifolds? whats the diffrence? I can grab the H.O. for 250 with the trans and it has 80k only problem is the car had a dash fire and the harness got destroyed
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Unread 08-29-2010, 02:34 AM   #10
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Is it so damn hard reading the posts we have written? We've already answered that question multiple times

Strip the HO engine to long block, so that you can use ALL external renix parts (including distributor).

As I also wrote, remember the AW4s and transfer cases behind renix engines and HO engines won't simply bolt-on. IIRC some of the sensors are different between the AW4s, so they would need to be changed from your old tranny to the new tranny. Remember spline count on the tranny output is different between the two, so I suggest also getting the transfer case with the HO engine+tranny.

You can use your old AW4 if you wish, but in that case you must swap the flexplate from your old engine to the HO engine.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 08-29-2010, 02:55 AM   #11
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Ditto, ditto, ditto.
The knock sensor boss may not be drilled or it may be drilled and not tapped. You can drill & tap the boss (best!), find another place for the knock sensor, or tie it out of the way.
Some report having removed the sensor and shorting the connector pins with a 1k Ohm resistor. Then, just tie the connector out of the way. It's just as easy to tap the hole while the engine is out of the Jeep and let the system make use of it. Usually work arounds are more work and less satisfactory than doing it the way the manufacturer did.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 04:07 AM   #12
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There are 2 pipe type plugs on the side of the block. You can take one out to use for the knock sensor. I took an old 3/8 extension and ground it down to fit the square hole. The knock sensor will thread back in.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 06:46 AM   #13
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Go get the frickin motor before someone else does. Consider the trans etc as future trading material. Don't bother using that stuff. Do as I and others have suggested. The drilled and tapped knock sensor boss will most likely be there, and you only have to remove a coolant gallery plug on the HO block's driver side to instal your coolant temp sensor.
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Unread 08-29-2010, 08:48 PM   #14
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so looked at the motor, car had a bad interior fire that spred to the engine bay, so I coudnt hear it run. Turns over by hand, oil looks clean, Idk wether or not to go for it he wasnts $200 for that and a brand new rad, Im not taking the trans cuz its 2wd. Get the motor? or keep looking?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 11:55 PM   #15
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How many miles? What caused the fire? Are you sure it started in the interior? They usually start under the hood. Could have been from backfiring through the throttle body - bad valves, timing chain, or other issues are possible. Was there compression when you tried to turn it by hand?
If the answer is low miles, i.e. less than 125k, fire started for odd reason in the interior and not much burned under the hood, say just wiring, and it had good compression when you turned it through, I'd get it. Basically a free new radiator.
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