Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Are talking about true 3- link + panhard, or radius arm + panhard on which only the other of the radius arms has the upper arm on it?
True 3-link works great and with the right designs is also very strong. A radius arm system that uses only one upper arm and stock mounting hardware IMO is a no-go. Stock UCA mounting bolt on the axle is a 10mm class 10.9 bolt (or could be replaced with a 3/8" grade 8, which is just as strong or weak) - it does not really require a very big hit to shear it.
If running a 3-link or a "one-upper-arm radius arm" system, the upper arm should use at least 12mm class 10.9 or 12.9 bolt, or 1/2" grade 8 - but preferrably 14mm or 9/16". You do not want that single upper arm bolt the shear off, it will cause a lot of carnage. I know a few aftermarket long-arm systems use a single arm 10mm or 3/8" bolt-type-of-setup - which IMO is simply bad design.
Other than that, there's nothing wrong with it, and there really should be no difference in street manners between radius arm systems that use one or two upper arms. A single upper arm system flexes better and causes quite a bit less strain on the links, bushings and link mounts when wheeling.
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***