I'm about to embark on an engine replacement for my beloved 2001 Cherokee Sport (409,000 happy miles). I'm going with the ATK engine (4.0 in-line 6). I do all the work I can on the car (brakes, water pump, radiator, alternator, etc), but have never done an engine swap. I'm not doing this to be overly-ambitious or cocky...I'm a (temporarily?) unemployed teacher and I HAVE to do this myself. My question is, does anyone know of a link or another source for a step by step guide for this, just to be sure I cover all the bases? I just bought the Daimler-Chrysler manual for the car. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Honestly, the answer is no. There is no total complete set of instructions that I know of, I did my 99 two years ago and I had to piece together about 4 different tutorials to get anywhere. I would suggest just taking a lot of pictures as you take it apart for reference. Everything is pretty easy until you have to seperate the engine from the transmission. The flex plat bolts arent bad, the but reverse torx bolts holding the tranny on are so squished under the firewall, you almost have to take your front motor mounts out first. Other than that, its kind of fun. Just get the engine down to the block and be VERY careful when taking all of those little black plugs off on the wiring harness. Good luck!
Swapped the motor in my 97 just a couple months ago. Hubby & I tackled it from start to finish in about 21 hours. No repair manual either. Best advice I have....get a good supply of plastic cups to keep track of all the bolts, nuts, screws, etc & label them with a sharpie as you disassemble the motor. And take pix to refer back to.
Hardest bolts were the 2 reverse torx on the top of the tranny at the firewall. There is almost NO room to get to them.
The FSM covers the R&R of an engine in it's entirety. However, you will need either (1) a very good memory, or (2) take pictures as you go, and separate and label fasteners and other parts into small containers.
WANTED--MJ Comanche to restore. Must be solid, (relatively) rust free chassis. Send me a PM if you have a line on one that is for sale.
It's using water to the tune of a half-gallon per day, but no visible leaks (blown head gasket?). Turkey gravy under the valve cover last July, although the last 2 oil changes since then (2,000 mile intervals), the used oil has looked fairly normal. Also, recent lifter noise has become quite loud. I guess I figured it doesn't make sense to do half a re-build. The transmission has no issues.