2000 XJ Suspension Torque Specs - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 10-27-2013, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
matthartman1
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2000 XJ Suspension Torque Specs

So my girlfriend's 2000 XJ has been having "death wobble" issues. After crawling underneath and finding the Sway Bar Link Bushings decrepit, getting them off and FINALLY removing the lower T55 bolt with a c-clamp and oversized socket I've made it to the easy part of installing new links.

Unfortunately however, I only have the Haynes for my 98ZJ. Would someone be willing to post the torque specifications found at the beginning of the suspension & steering systems chapter for the stabilizer bar-to-link nut and stabilizer link-to-axle bolt/nut?

Also, if anyone is having issues removing those lower link t55 bolts, the c-clamp is the way to go. Tried the pitman puller... just a PITA.

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post #2 of 5 Old 10-27-2013, 10:48 PM
AZ Jeff
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Sway bar link torque is NOT critical to eliminating DW. The ZJ specs would be the same as the XJ for that model year, BTW.

"Reasonably Tight" is adequate for sway bar parts.. If you still have DW issues after that its NOT the sway bar or it's links.

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post #3 of 5 Old 10-27-2013, 11:12 PM
5-90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthartman1 View Post
So my girlfriend's 2000 XJ has been having "death wobble" issues. After crawling underneath and finding the Sway Bar Link Bushings decrepit, getting them off and FINALLY removing the lower T55 bolt with a c-clamp and oversized socket I've made it to the easy part of installing new links.

Unfortunately however, I only have the Haynes for my 98ZJ. Would someone be willing to post the torque specifications found at the beginning of the suspension & steering systems chapter for the stabilizer bar-to-link nut and stabilizer link-to-axle bolt/nut?

Also, if anyone is having issues removing those lower link t55 bolts, the c-clamp is the way to go. Tried the pitman puller... just a PITA.
1) If I have the FSM for it, the torque specs are on my site. www.kelleyswip.com/tech.html.

2) When torquing suspension parts (especially with rubber bushings!)
- With the wheels in the air for access, snug the fasteners down finger-tight.
- Put the wheels on the ground
- "Bounce" each corner hard, let it stop on its own.
- Do that last bit again.
- Now torque to spec.

For suspension fasteners, failure to do this will accelerate bushing wear. You want to torque the bushing fasteners down in their "natural" position - vehicle on all four wheels, at rest, suspension relieved. If you torque a bushing through bolt with the wheels at "stuff" or "droop," you'll be fixing the bushing in an unnatural position, and just sitting still in the driveway will stress the EPDM elastomer!

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post #4 of 5 Old 10-29-2013, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
matthartman1
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Jeff, correct... this has just been a step towards the overall DW issue. Thanks for your reply. I have found the exhaustive list of DW causes/solutions and am actively working my way through. Thanks for your response.
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post #5 of 5 Old 10-29-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
matthartman1
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5-90, Thanks for the walk-through. I knew enough to drop it down but the "bounce" was new information. I had some issues finding the specs on your site but if Jeff is correct, they should be the same as the 2000zj. I suppose my current concern is that with 78lbs of torque on the link nut (link to sway bar) those rubber bushings will be pancakes. SO...until I hear otherwise I'll let it ride at the very specific "reasonably tight."
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