1999 Cherokee fuel filter replacement - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 20 Old 09-20-2010, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
350zmarty
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1999 Cherokee fuel filter replacement

Has anyone replaced a fuel filter on a 99 Cherokee with 6 cyl. I hear it is in the gas tank ??

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post #2 of 20 Old 09-21-2010, 02:37 AM
CJ7-Tim
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The 1997 - 2001 fuel filter is inside the gas tank, attached to the fuel pump. It is not normally replaced unless fuel pressure/flow testing shows a blockage.

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post #3 of 20 Old 09-26-2010, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
350zmarty
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What it is doing is it will not start on the first crank, but starts the second time every time. Runs great. I put new plugs and wires(plugs were not fouled).
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-26-2010, 08:20 PM
orangeNblue302
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does it sound like it wants to turn over on the first crank?
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post #5 of 20 Old 09-26-2010, 08:25 PM
EricsXJ
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You may have a small leak in the system that is causing the fuel system to depressurize after the engine is shut off. Then when you attempt to start it the first few cranks won't start it because the system is not at pressure yet. Try holding the key at the "on" position for a second or two before cranking. You should hear the fuel pump turn on (its a very slight noise that you can hear if you listen for it) as it pressurizes the system. Then turn it to "start" and it should start on the first crank.

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post #6 of 20 Old 09-26-2010, 08:45 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350zmarty View Post
What it is doing is it will not start on the first crank, but starts the second time every time.
When the 1997 to 2001 Cherokee won’t start on the first try day after day, the first thing to suspect is a failed check valve on the fuel pump. The fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located in the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in the following symptoms:

SYMPTOMS

· Longer than normal cranking times
· Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
· Rough idle for a few moments of idling
· Rough running for first ½ block of driving
· Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -

1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45 PSI.


POSSIBLE CAUSES

· Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank.
· Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.

Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.

1. Connect a fuel pressure gauge at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gauge should read 49 psi plus or minus 2 psi.

2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.

If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky injector.

There are a few solutions to the problem –

1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.

2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.

3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.

You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.


If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality OEM style unit. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies, like Airtex, don’t hold up and fail completely within 12-18 months. .

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #7 of 20 Old 09-26-2010, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guy's, good advice.
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post #8 of 20 Old 09-27-2010, 09:09 AM
tjwalker
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Almost assuredly the "check valve" in the fuel pump assembly. It is an EXTREMELY common problem on your vintage. It started going bad on my 99 at around 80k.

Follow Tim's advice above.

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post #9 of 20 Old 10-26-2010, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
350zmarty
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It ended up being a inline O2 sensor
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post #10 of 20 Old 10-26-2010, 11:55 PM
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I know the older cherokees won't start on 1st crank, not supposed to (1st crank gets oil to cylendar head, 2nd - time to start).
Do the later models start on the 1st crank??
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-27-2010, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
350zmarty
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Mine does now that I got the in-line 02 sensor replaced. Stars straight up on the first crank
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-27-2010, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
I know the older cherokees won't start on 1st crank, not supposed to (1st crank gets oil to cylendar head, 2nd - time to start).
Do the later models start on the 1st crank??
What do you mean by first crank? Do you mean the first full rotation of the flywheel or actually the first time you turn the starter on it will not fire up and you have to engauge the starter once more for it to actually start? If the latter I've never heard of such a thing. My engine turns over once or twice and fires right up every day, I have always turned the ignition to the on poistion for 1-2 seconds before engauging the starter, have always done it.

It's interesting that an O2 sensor would cause the vehicle to not start the first try. Was it the pre cat or post cat sensor?

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post #13 of 20 Old 11-02-2012, 12:11 AM
DunmerBoy
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is there any reason to change the check valve besides the minor annoyance?

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post #14 of 20 Old 11-02-2012, 06:37 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunmerBoy View Post
is there any reason to change the check valve besides the minor annoyance?
You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.

.

A recent Gallup public opinion poll shows the NRA, at 58% approval, has a higher approval rating than either Hillary Clinton or Barack Obama.

Progressive Liberalism: Bringing you new Healthcare ideas so wonderful, they have to include mandatory participation ...

Originally Posted by Ronald W. Reagan: Government is not the solution to our problems; Government is the problem.
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post #15 of 20 Old 11-02-2012, 11:28 AM
DunmerBoy
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oh okay good, I was just worried it was hard on the starter or something

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check valve , fuel filter , hard starting , heat soak , starts on 2nd try , vapor lock

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