Hiya fellas and ladies, I want to start off by saying - I come in peace from the ZJ section of the forum!
About 18 months ago I swapped an HP D30 from a 1995 XJ into my 1996 ZJ. Its been great so far, it's much quieter than the old worn out LPD30. The only issue being that I snapped off one of the 8mm bolts for the U-joint straps flush with the yoke. I forgot I had used blue locktight, and thought I would re-torque them when I was re-torquing my newly installed suspension, it didn't work out at planned. I ordered the Spicer U-joint U-bolt kit and drilled out all for holes to accept the u-bolt, but the nuts on the U-bolts were so tight to the yoke, they were starting to round over when I tightened them down. I also think it was out of balance because this, some would tighten down farther than others. This got me through a few trips, but I've had the front shaft off a majority of the time.
I have since ordered a new Spicer U-bolt style yoke and a new pinion nut. I am ready to install them this week, but I have been reading so many conflicting things, I want to ask you kind folks for the correct info.
The HP D30 uses shims vs. a crush sleeve washer on the LP D30. This part I know, but I have seen write ups still saying to mark the original nut and measure the rotational force of the pinion before removing it. I have also read to always use a new nut. So why mark the original? Is measuring necessary if the preload is already set by the shims?
I have also seen varying final torque specs for the new nut. anywhere from 130 ft.lbs. to 250 ft.lbs. - 160 ft. lbs. seems to be the recommendation I've seen the most. What does the 1995 XJ FSM say? Is any locktight required? If so, wouldn't that change the actual torque applied?
Sorry for so many questions, I just want to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance!
About 18 months ago I swapped an HP D30 from a 1995 XJ into my 1996 ZJ. Its been great so far, it's much quieter than the old worn out LPD30. The only issue being that I snapped off one of the 8mm bolts for the U-joint straps flush with the yoke. I forgot I had used blue locktight, and thought I would re-torque them when I was re-torquing my newly installed suspension, it didn't work out at planned. I ordered the Spicer U-joint U-bolt kit and drilled out all for holes to accept the u-bolt, but the nuts on the U-bolts were so tight to the yoke, they were starting to round over when I tightened them down. I also think it was out of balance because this, some would tighten down farther than others. This got me through a few trips, but I've had the front shaft off a majority of the time.
I have since ordered a new Spicer U-bolt style yoke and a new pinion nut. I am ready to install them this week, but I have been reading so many conflicting things, I want to ask you kind folks for the correct info.
The HP D30 uses shims vs. a crush sleeve washer on the LP D30. This part I know, but I have seen write ups still saying to mark the original nut and measure the rotational force of the pinion before removing it. I have also read to always use a new nut. So why mark the original? Is measuring necessary if the preload is already set by the shims?
I have also seen varying final torque specs for the new nut. anywhere from 130 ft.lbs. to 250 ft.lbs. - 160 ft. lbs. seems to be the recommendation I've seen the most. What does the 1995 XJ FSM say? Is any locktight required? If so, wouldn't that change the actual torque applied?
Sorry for so many questions, I just want to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance!