1995 HP D30 Pinion Yoke Replacment - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 2 Old 08-09-2017, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
1996maroonzjf
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 328
1995 HP D30 Pinion Yoke Replacment

Hiya fellas and ladies, I want to start off by saying - I come in peace from the ZJ section of the forum!

About 18 months ago I swapped an HP D30 from a 1995 XJ into my 1996 ZJ. Its been great so far, it's much quieter than the old worn out LPD30. The only issue being that I snapped off one of the 8mm bolts for the U-joint straps flush with the yoke. I forgot I had used blue locktight, and thought I would re-torque them when I was re-torquing my newly installed suspension, it didn't work out at planned. I ordered the Spicer U-joint U-bolt kit and drilled out all for holes to accept the u-bolt, but the nuts on the U-bolts were so tight to the yoke, they were starting to round over when I tightened them down. I also think it was out of balance because this, some would tighten down farther than others. This got me through a few trips, but I've had the front shaft off a majority of the time.

I have since ordered a new Spicer U-bolt style yoke and a new pinion nut. I am ready to install them this week, but I have been reading so many conflicting things, I want to ask you kind folks for the correct info.

The HP D30 uses shims vs. a crush sleeve washer on the LP D30. This part I know, but I have seen write ups still saying to mark the original nut and measure the rotational force of the pinion before removing it. I have also read to always use a new nut. So why mark the original? Is measuring necessary if the preload is already set by the shims?

I have also seen varying final torque specs for the new nut. anywhere from 130 ft.lbs. to 250 ft.lbs. - 160 ft. lbs. seems to be the recommendation I've seen the most. What does the 1995 XJ FSM say? Is any locktight required? If so, wouldn't that change the actual torque applied?

Sorry for so many questions, I just want to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance!


-Tim
96 4.0 Laredo, 42RE, NP242, HP30 & D35c 3.55, OME 2.5" HD Coils, Bilstein 5100s, IRO Adj. LCAs
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post #2 of 2 Old 08-09-2017, 01:51 PM
Timo_90xj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
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I've built a few HP D30s (one R&P swap on my XJ, two different HPD30s to my ZJ).

If you're replacing just the yoke, bare minimum is to pull the brake calipers and then measure rotational force required to rotate the pinion. You do get a more accurate reading if you pull the shafts and drop the carrier, but the HPD30 being a shim- style axle with the pinion preload, preload shouldn't change with a new yoke. It can, but it shouldn't.

Now, after you've measured the rotational force with a suitable needle- or dial-type inch/ lbs. torque wrench, remove the pinion nut and yoke.

Before installing the new yoke:
* Clean off any oil, grease or thread locker from the pinion threads
* Use a new pinion nut
* Apply blue thread locker to pinion threads
* Install yoke, install washer, thread in the pinion nut
* Torque to ~160-180ft.lbs. - I've never had a pinion nut come loose with that torque rating on a HPD30.
* Measure rotating torque; should be the same or a few in./lbs. more than with the original yoke.


Do keep in mind D30 and D44 axles which use the same size pinion nut, same spline count yoke etc. may require well in excess of 250lbs./ft. when crush sleeve is used. So over- tightening isn't really going tot happen unless you go stupid crazy with the torque..

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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