1990 XJ Lift Question - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 39 Old 08-15-2010, 07:52 PM
xjfever
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If you have any sagging in the rear I would recommend going with full replacements. Adding the AAL's to already tired packs will lead to premature sagging of the lift.


  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #17 of 39 Old 08-15-2010, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
D0dgeRam1500
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Would the 3.5" rear leaf packs + the 1.5" rear shackle cause it to have the rear sit higher?

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post #18 of 39 Old 08-15-2010, 09:06 PM
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You can do their 2.5" AAL + 1.5" shackles, or IRO does have a myriad of other options, including I believe some 4" full packs. If you call them, they'll get you exactly what you need. They did it for my kit - I did the 2.5" AAL and 1.5" shackles for a few reasons

1) I liked the idea of having shackles to use with a higher lift later on (quick take on/off 1.5")
2) I know I'm going to go bigger again within the next year, so I already know 100% I'm going to do full packs soon
3) Hey, it comes with 4 shackles!


If you're sure about this lift height, then of course go full packs if you can afford to do it now - that's definitely doing it all in one job.
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post #19 of 39 Old 08-15-2010, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
D0dgeRam1500
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I saw on another thread that you guys think that longer lower control arms would help with a lift. Which ones do you think I should get?

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post #20 of 39 Old 08-15-2010, 11:20 PM
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I went with IRO's adjustable lower control arms, and they're solid. Also that way if you get adjustable, you can always adjust them if you decide to go bigger (which most do, including myself!) Also, they'll give you a discount on them if you buy them with a lift in the same order.That'd be my recommendation.
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post #21 of 39 Old 08-16-2010, 06:48 AM
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For 3" of lift the stock arms are fine. The actual recommended length for lower control arms at 3" of lift is 16" which is only 1/4" longer than the stock arms. I recommend longer arms for anything over 4" of lift though as the axle will start pulling back toward the rear at that height. If you have the extra cash for lower arms and want the upgrade then they will be nice to have, but not necessary if you don't want to spend the extra money on them.

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #22 of 39 Old 08-28-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Will I need Slip Yoke Eliminator and Drive shaft Kit on a 4 inch lift? I know it's recommended on 4.5 inch lifts.

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post #23 of 39 Old 08-28-2010, 04:24 PM
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No, the t-case drop will usually work for your model on anything under 4.5" You may not even need it though. On the 96-up models the output on the t-case is different and usually requires the SYE at lower lift heights than the 95-older models.

  1. '95 XJ country edition, 4" coils/3/4" spacers, HD leafs with extra main added in, Ironman adjustable control arms, rough country shackles, aussie locker, JK rubicon shocks, 35" mudder's, soft 8's, cobra cb
  2. Sold'99 WJ limited, 4.7L, 3" IRO lift. Bilstein shocks, JK rubicon wheels, 255/70/17's, carolina driveshaft, IRO adjustable control arms, IRO adjustable A-arm
  3. Sold '00 TJ, 4" lift, rusty's adjustable control arms, skyjacker shocks, rock krawler adj. trac-bar,rugged ridge SYE and RE driveshaft, soft 8's, 35" mud king xt's,XJ HP D30 w/aussie locker, 4:88 yukon gears, hella 500's, rock crusher diff covers
4. 04 Dodge ram 1500 quadcab, yes, it has a hemi.
5. '08 BMW X3, Mods in progress.
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post #24 of 39 Old 08-28-2010, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjfever View Post
No, the t-case drop will usually work for your model on anything under 4.5" You may not even need it though. On the 96-up models the output on the t-case is different and usually requires the SYE at lower lift heights than the 95-older models.

X2. I'm running the 4" IRO kit without t-case or SYE, and I get no vibes from the driveline. Normally every XJ is different, but the pre-97's tend to do better with lift as far as driveline angle goes.

Lift it, and if you have vibes, use the t-case drop - although I don't recommend running a t-case drop for a long time. Eventually you'll want to just bite the bullet and get an SYE - you'll need it when you go bigger anyways!
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post #25 of 39 Old 08-31-2010, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I keep on changing what I'm going to do lift wise. I can get a deal on a 3 inch BDS lift kit. They have a really nice warranty too. If I break any BDS part, they will replace it no questions asked. I have a question about the shocks though. I don't like lift company standard shocks but their upgraded ones are too expensive. I'm thinking of going with Bilstein 5150 series shocks but I don't know what size I need. So does anyone know what size shocks I need for my Jeep when I lift it 3 inches?

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post #26 of 39 Old 02-20-2017, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ7-Tim View Post
Read the older threads about lifting, your friend is trying to be helpful but has some bad info.

Drop pitman is not needed until you are at 6-8"

At 3" the stock control arms are OK, maybe lowers if you have the money.

Avoid any adjustable track bar that uses tie rod ends.

Engine/transmission skids aren't really needed unless you wheel on really big rocks.
Why avoid the adjustable track bar with tie rod ends. Im asking because mine has the tie rod style and i am going to put the RC 4.5 inch lift and was going to buy an adjustable TB with the tie rod end since that is whats on mine now. If i buy the one with the bracket, i have a lot of modifying to do.
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post #27 of 39 Old 02-20-2017, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattrowe View Post

Why avoid the adjustable track bar with tie rod ends. Im asking because mine has the tie rod style and i am going to put the RC 4.5 inch lift and was going to buy an adjustable TB with the tie rod end since that is whats on mine now. If i buy the one with the bracket, i have a lot of modifying to do.
They're a hell of a lot weaker. Why would modifying be needed? The double shear kits come with a bracket that mounts up just like factory.

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post #28 of 39 Old 02-21-2017, 05:48 PM
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Not really modifying but i would have to take off the old bracket and hope all the bolt holes line up, and from my previous mechanic jobs, all mounts dont line up perfect. So re-drilling might be necessary. And trying to re-drill or ream out holes under vehicles is not an easy job some times.

Ill call up RC and ask how good there mount is and if it has been tested for compatibility or any complaints of not exact fit.
When I looked at my bracket on mine, it looks twice as big at least for the little flimsy looking one with the track bar.
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post #29 of 39 Old 02-21-2017, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mattrowe View Post
Not really modifying but i would have to take off the old bracket and hope all the bolt holes line up, and from my previous mechanic jobs, all mounts dont line up perfect. So re-drilling might be necessary. And trying to re-drill or ream out holes under vehicles is not an easy job some times.

Ill call up RC and ask how good there mount is and if it has been tested for compatibility or any complaints of not exact fit.
When I looked at my bracket on mine, it looks twice as big at least for the little flimsy looking one with the track bar.
If you want a strong track bar, go Iron Rock Offroad. Their setup is beefy and has a lot of adjustment for build changes available.

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post #30 of 39 Old 02-21-2017, 08:24 PM
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ok, will go look right now, thanks.
I just watched a video from RC adding there 4.5 in x series on a stock jeep and they used a new tie rod end TB, not the one with a new bracket.
Makes me wonder why if the one with a bracket is stronger or better.

Just looked, the replaceable one with bracket definitely looks more like my bracket and it does have more metal for sure.
Even the stock one with the tie rod end is only $20 more and sounds better.
I will give them a call also.
Probably go with Iron Rock.
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