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Unread 05-20-2012, 08:36 PM   #1
jeepkid03
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The 0331 head swap thread

This thread will go over the steps to swap a 0331 head. The swap was done on my buddy's 2000 Cherokee. For detailed instructions, I highly recommend using a factory service manual or Haynes service manual. This thread is an overview of the steps required to swap the head.

Required parts:

-new "beefed up" 0331 head from Clearwater Cylinder or Alabama Cylinder
-headgasket
-valve cover gasket
-exhaust/intake gasket
-new head bolts/studs
-195* thermostat and gasket (recommend buying at dealer)
-Coolant and oil + oil filter
-New spark plugs (optional)

Required Tools:
-razor blades to clean up surfaces
-shoe box + cover to put push rods in order
-loctite thread sealant
-1/2" 12 point deep socket
-3/8" drive torque wrench
-breaker bar
-metric and standard wrench sets/sockets
-PB Blaster or Kroil
-Fuel line quick disconnect tool


The project took 3 days to complete, but about 1 day of that was running around and gathering tools we hadn't bought yet, and flushing out the cooling system. We also took our time and cleaned everything while it was apart.

I highly recommend Kroil, it is available on Amazon, and works much better than PB Blaster. Spray every bolt before removing it. I soaked the manifold bolts overnight as well as the head bolts, and didn't break a single bolt.



I also recommend labeling all of the wires you unplug with tape and a marker, as well as the throttle cables. All of the parts we took off were put in bags and labeled. This made putting everything back on much easier. Taking pictures also helps you remember where things go.



First, we removed the hood for better access to the engine bay, and degreased everything. I also removed the air box. There are three 13mm bolts in the bottom holding it in, as well as a hose clamp on the throttle body.



Next, drain the oil and coolant, and remove the fans as well as the coolant hoses attached to the thermostat housing. Then remove the thermostat housing and thermostat. Use a drain pan since there is likely still coolant in the head.



Next, I removed the belt, belt tensioner pulley, and power steering pump. It is not necessary to remove the belt tensioner pulley, but I did so for better access. The power steering pulley must be removed since it is attached to the intake manifold. Just leave the power steering lines connected and lay the pump to the side.



Next, remove the throttle body. Be sure to label the sensor plugs and throttle cables so you know how they go back together.



Next disconnect the vacuum lines that are attached to the manifold. Be careful with the PCV hose that connects to the rear of the valve cover. It is brittle plastic and I snapped it, resulting in more time needed for a junkyard run.



Next disconnect the fuel rail. You need to first relieve the pressure in the line. Open the gas cap, then press the small pressure relief button on the fuel rail with a screw driver. It looks similar to a tire valve stem and has a black plastic cap over it. Be sure to have rags to collect the fuel that will come out. Then use the special fuel line disconnect tool (can be rented at Autozone) to disconnect the fuel line.



Once the fuel line is disconnected, unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold, unplug the injectors (make sure to label the plugs in order), and pull the fuel rail towards you. It will require some force to pull it out, and make sure you pull from the sides, not the middle, so you won't bend it. It will pop out, and then you can pull it out of the way. There will be some fuel remaining inside the rail, so drain it into a pan. I recommend cleaning off the injectors while you have them out.



Next remove the valve cover. Unscrew all of the bolts and put them in a labeled bag. You might need to tap the valve cover LIGHTLY with a rubber mallet to break it loose. Also remove the coil rail and spark plugs. There are four bolts holding the coil rail to the head. Also remove the 2 bolts holding the A/C compressor bracket to the head at this time.



Now you have exposed the rocker arms and push rods.





Unbolt the rocker arms and put them in a shoebox in the same order they came off of the head. Do the same for the push rods.



Now the head should look like this:





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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-20-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
jeepkid03
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The next step is to remove the manifolds. I highly recommend using ratchet wrenches for this step. They made the job less tedious, and having my friend under the jeep with a flashlight to communicate how close I was to the bolts also helped immensely.



You have to remove them both at the same time, so remove all the bolts then pull the manifolds off of the head together.




Once you have the manifolds off, it is time to unbolt the head. First unbolt the engine ground on the last bolt next to the firewall. When you loosen this head bolt, put a strip of tape under the head of the bolt to keep it out of the block, it won't clear the firewall, and must stay in the head until you remove the head.



Have someone help you remove the head. It is much easier to lift it off the block with two people.






Now remove the parts that were left behind from the old gasket. We used razor blades and a scotch brite pad, and sucked up the pieces with my mom's vacuum. Make sure not to gouge the surface of the block, and it should be smooth before installing the new head.
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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-20-2012, 08:58 PM   #3
alexbl
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just did this on saturday. nice detailed writeup but really no need to disconnect the fuel rail just take the manifold all off as 1 piece. i have also never heard of any1 ever breaking a bold, they are pretty thick, but im sure it was a lil easier to break them loose
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Unread 05-20-2012, 09:26 PM   #4
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Depending where you buy the replacement head, it might not have dowel pins in the head to line up the intake manifold. The Clearwater head did not, so I gently used vise grips to pull the dowel pins out of the old head, and tapped them into the new head. DO NOT clamp the vice grips down hard on the dowel pins, or you will mess up the shape of them and have to work them a little with a file to get the intake manifold to fit over them. You can buy new dowel pins online, or find roll pins at a hardware store that would fit. The head needs two of them.



Also install the studs for the exhaust manifold. There is one on each end of the manifold side of the head.



Place the gasket over the block, there are guide pins to line it up correctly. Then place the head on top of the block. Be sure to insert the last bolt into the head before doing so, and put tape under the head of the bolt so it does not stick out of the head underneath. If you don't do this step first, you won't get the last bolt into the head with it already on the block, since it does not clear the firewall. Having another person help makes it much easier to line up the head. I had my buddy line up the front while I was standing in the engine bay lining up the rear.



Follow the torque sequence in the service manual for the head bolts. Head bolts can be reused once, but I highly recommend getting new ones. They cost $25, and that $25 could save you from needing to pull the head again in case yours have been used twice already. The front bolt on the driver side needs Loctite 592 high temp thread sealer or equivalent, since it goes through the water jacket. I used Permatex red high temp thread sealer from Autozone. Just to clarify, you will need thread SEALER, NOT thread locker. We realized this once we started and had to go to the store once again to buy thread sealer instead.

Reinstall the manifolds. Make sure they are lined up tightly against the head or you will have leaks. If your engine revs high upon first start, this is the sign of an intake manifold leak, and you need to retorque the bolts or check to make sure its seated against the head properly. Luckily we got it right the first time.

The book states to use a torque wrench, but to be honest there is no way you will fit a torque wrench in there. I got them pretty tight by hand and they were fine. Just don't snap the bolts. I don't really trust the torque specs from jeep (25 ft lbs or so) considering manifold bolts becoming loose is a common problem on the 4.0L.



After the manifolds the rest is easy, it is basically reinstall the parts as you took them off.

Reinstall the rocker arms and push rods in the same order you removed them. Make sure and dip them in oil before installing them. They need to be torqued down as well. Make sure the push rods are centered in the lifters before bolting everything down. I also installed the spark plugs and coil rail at this time.




I painted the valve cover while it was off, and reinstalled it. Be careful installing the valve cover. The bolts barely need to be tight, and will snap easily. The head bolts under the valve cover have two studs to help line up the valve cover gasket and keep it in place.



Next install the fuel rail and throttle body. The fuel rail just pops right in like it came out. The quick connect on the fuel line clips back in place.



Install the thermostat housing and thermostat, and plug the sensor back in. I recommend testing your new thermostat in a pot of boiling water before installing it in your jeep. Hook up the coolant hoses that connect to the thermostat housing. You want to clean off the remains of the old housing gasket before installing it.



Hook up all of your vacuum lines, throttle cables, and sensors. Like I said before, labeling everything beforehand really helps!

Also install the fans, power steering pulley, belt, and belt tensioner pulley.



Fill the engine with oil (6 quarts) and coolant (12 quarts) and check for leaks. Install the air box and make sure everything is tightened down.



Cycle the key on and off a few times to prime the fuel system, then start it up! Let the engine idle, and check for leaks and noises. There may be some smoke at first from the penetrating oil burning off of the manifold bolts. Make sure to keep track of the coolant level as the jeep heats up and cools off. Add coolant as needed. Do a shortened oil change interval (1,000 miles or so) for the first change, just to get any crap out.
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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #5
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If there are any questions, post them in this thread or PM me. I'll be glad to help anyone out.
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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-20-2012, 09:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbl View Post
just did this on saturday. nice detailed writeup but really no need to disconnect the fuel rail just take the manifold all off as 1 piece. i have also never heard of any1 ever breaking a bold, they are pretty thick, but im sure it was a lil easier to break them loose
I decided to disconnect the fuel rail and completely remove the intake to give us more room when working. My buddy is in a wheelchair, and removing this stuff allowed him to sit in the engine bay while we worked.

I agree that the bolts didn't really need penetrating oil, but it can't hurt. My other friend snapped an intake bolt on his '98 ZJ and it was a PITA to get out, so I'd rather be on the safe side.
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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-20-2012, 10:25 PM   #7
DerMeister
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Thanks for taking the time to do this. It seems like a pretty simple and easy enough job to do. The only issue is the $500 immediate price tag that follows failure.

I'm sure I'll be using this someday.
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Unread 05-21-2012, 05:57 AM   #8
Jeff9
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Thanks for doing this Josh. I'll be doing this in the next few years and I was kind of nervous about it. Now not so much...looks do-able!
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Unread 05-21-2012, 07:39 AM   #9
jeepkid03
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The head swap isn't hard to do, just time consuming. Take your time and do it right the first time. The hardest part in my opinion is the manifold bolts. They are just tricky to get to. Its definitely do-able by yourself, but having another person to help makes a world of difference.
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My 0331 Head Swap How-To Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/0...hread-1371398/

Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1119997/
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Unread 05-21-2012, 08:39 AM   #10
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+1 good writeup
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Unread 05-21-2012, 10:07 AM   #11
motorsports3
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Good writeup!
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Unread 05-21-2012, 04:53 PM   #12
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I have no clue so thats up front.What is the advantage of a 331 cylinder head and will this work for a 98 4.0 zj?
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Unread 05-21-2012, 08:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman
I have no clue so thats up front.What is the advantage of a 331 cylinder head and will this work for a 98 4.0 zj?
There is not really a advantage, intact most people prefer a older head because they flow better, but 2000-2001 jeeps (and 1999wjs?) have a head cracking issue so replacing the 0331 head with a new beefed up 0331 cast is good preventative maintenance. There's really no need to do the swap on your zj (because it has the older head) but it can be done.......
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Unread 05-23-2012, 02:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthecatkiller View Post
There is not really a advantage, intact most people prefer a older head because they flow better, but 2000-2001 jeeps (and 1999wjs?) have a head cracking issue so replacing the 0331 head with a new beefed up 0331 cast is good preventative maintenance. There's really no need to do the swap on your zj (because it has the older head) but it can be done.......
Sucks to find this out the hard way!

$450 for a new casting head, or dump $250 into rebuilding your old one like I did

Of course I didnt find any of this out until after I took the head in, and now I dont feel like dumping more money into it!

But good lesson to learn, and thanks for the thread jeepkid.
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Unread 05-23-2012, 02:40 PM   #15
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Some people take the head off with the exhaust manifold and intake still on it. I have always done it the way that you have. Do you think it would be easier to remove it with the manifolds on?
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