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Unread 06-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #1
njsurfmaster
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'00 XJ Overheating - Bad Water Pump

About a year and a half ago I was having problems with no heat in my 2000 XJ. I flushed the entire cooling system and then did the heater core separately both ways. The top heater hose would get hot and the bottom one stayed much cooler at idle. Running the engine at higher rpms for a while would get both hoses hot, but the top one was always hotter. During this time I also replaced the thermostat.

I figured it was a bad heater core since coolant did not appear to be flowing through it. I had the heater core replaced. The heat seemed to work better. This was in the fall of 2010. In the summer of 2011 the radiator got a hole in it so I had to replace it.

It started to overheat a few days ago. My daughter was driving it and when it started overheating and she parked it. Since I've replaced everything else for various reasons (heater core, radiator, hoses, thermostat and coolant) I figured the only thing left was the water pump so I decided to pull it today.

As others on the forum have reported, there was almost nothing left of the impeller. I've replaced many water pumps over the past 30 years or so, but I don't remember seeing anything like this. It's been a while since I've replaced one, and in every case prior, they were replaced due to leaking, so it might be common. Not sure.

Here is a picture of the impeller...



After replacing it, everything is back to normal with my XJ.

To anyone having overheating, heating or cooling issues, make sure you check out the water pump even if it seems to be turning normally.

Sean

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Unread 06-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #2
cactus_jack
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Nice. Hope it didn't get too hot. You've probably got the scary 0331 head. Glad to see you got it back up and running man good luck
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Unread 06-12-2012, 06:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactus_jack View Post
Nice. Hope it didn't get too hot. You've probably got the scary 0331 head. Glad to see you got it back up and running man good luck
Agreed. Thanks for posting the pics. How many miles on that water pump?

Dollar for dollar, there is no better money spent than that spent on the cooling system.

Because the water pump is not expensive, I generally recommend replacing it when you replace the radiator or often vice-versa.

Keep a very close eye on your coolant reservoir. You mentioned an overheat and the 0331 head doesn't fare well with overheats. If you start using coolant and having to add, suspect a cracked cylinder head and diagnose and deal with it quickly to save the engine.

Commit this sentence to memory. "The #1 symptom of a cracked 0331 cylinder head is unexplained coolant loss".
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Unread 06-12-2012, 06:59 PM   #4
njsurfmaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjwalker View Post
Agreed. Thanks for posting the pics. How many miles on that water pump?

Dollar for dollar, there is no better money spent than that spent on the cooling system.

Because the water pump is not expensive, I generally recommend replacing it when you replace the radiator or often vice-versa.

Keep a very close eye on your coolant reservoir. You mentioned an overheat and the 0331 head doesn't fare well with overheats. If you start using coolant and having to add, suspect a cracked cylinder head and diagnose and deal with it quickly to save the engine.

Commit this sentence to memory. "The #1 symptom of a cracked 0331 cylinder head is unexplained coolant loss".
I do have the 0331 head. I'm going to keep a close eye on it.

It was the original water pump with around 120k on it.

During the summer it doesn't get driven more than a few miles a day. In September it will be parked when my daughter goes back to school. Is it worth replacing the head before it causes a problem? If so, I might tackle it in the fall.

Sean
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Unread 06-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #5
bobthecatkiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsurfmaster

I do have the 0331 head. I'm going to keep a close eye on it.

It was the original water pump with around 120k on it.

During the summer it doesn't get driven more than a few miles a day. In September it will be parked when my daughter goes back to school. Is it worth replacing the head before it causes a problem? If so, I might tackle it in the fall.

Sean
I think the general consensus is that most of the 0331 heads have not cracked and therefor it's a very small percent of heads that have cracked.
I on the other hand recommend changing it since about every 2000-01 xj that has been in my junkyard , that I have seen has had a cracked head. to me it just wasn't that much to tackle on such a easy engine to work on, and it gave me the confidence to take it wherever. Its just not worth not noticing and then end up having to replace more then just a head.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 06:02 AM   #6
Kalali
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Replacing the head is not all that difficult but the cost of the material will set you back around $700; $480 for the head and around $220 for all new (quality) parts like hoses, water pump, gaskets, etc. Just did mine last weekend. Got 175K miles from the old head so hard to complain.
Forgot to add that my water pump looked nothing like the picture. Looked almost brand new but I replaced anyway. Easy decision for a $35 part.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 07:52 AM   #7
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I also recommend buying a water pump with a lifetime warranty as well as 2-3 core all metal rad. Since putting both those in my 00 XJ, i have not had an overheating issue since. I also got a stock electric fan that I still have to wire up to a switch so I can use it at will. for now it is in place waiting on me to supply it with power.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 12:21 PM   #8
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So I drove it for about 30 minutes today in mostly highway traffic. Temp stayed right around the 210 mark, maybe just slightly higher. Decided to turn on the AC to make sure it wasn't going to cause any trouble. After 2 or 3 minutes at 55mph, I stopped at a light. Sitting at the light the temp gauge was at 210. While I was watching it, it immediately jumped into the red zone just before the 260 mark. This was not a gradual or even a quick rise in temperature. It was immediate.

I pulled over and let it sit for 3-4 minutes and turned the key but didn't start it. It was still just below 260. I waited 3-4 more minutes and turned the key and now it was back just above 210.

I'm guessing an electrical issue or a problem with the temperature sending unit. I'm going to pick up a spot thermometer to check the temp at the sending unit the next time it happens which only appears to be when you turn on the AC.

I'm really hoping that it's a problem unrelated to the cooling system itself. Either way, I'm glad it did it so I was forced to replace the water pump!

Sean
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Unread 06-13-2012, 12:41 PM   #9
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That same temp spike situation happened to me last summer, except all new cooling components. When I popped the hood I had a small coolant leak spraying at the stat housing gasket from an improperly seated stat, and a disconnected E-fan. after reconnecting the e-fan and restarting only a minute later I expected a gradual decrease in temp but like you it dropped from 260 to 210 after restart.. Maybe it was an air pocket that caused the short-lived spike?
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Unread 06-13-2012, 01:07 PM   #10
njsurfmaster
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Originally Posted by bobbo_xj View Post
That same temp spike situation happened to me last summer, except all new cooling components. When I popped the hood I had a small coolant leak spraying at the stat housing gasket from an improperly seated stat, and a disconnected E-fan. after reconnecting the e-fan and restarting only a minute later I expected a gradual decrease in temp but like you it dropped from 260 to 210 after restart.. Maybe it was an air pocket that caused the short-lived spike?
That's interesting. I have another electrical gremlin that I have not been able to sort out...the rear washer turns on when you turn on the rear wiper and never shuts off. It will just drain all the washer fluid. It wouldn't surprise me if this was an electrical issue.

Sean
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Unread 06-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #11
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Overheating issues continue. Driving in ~40mph traffic for 6-7 miles stop and go in 95+ outside temp, it overheated near the end of the trip.

Decided after some more reading and research that is was possible that I had air in the system from when I replaced the water pump. I added almost a gallon of 50/50 into the thermostat housing. Ran it in the driveway at idle for 20-30 minutes then took it for a quick ride around the block. Got back and let it idle some more in the driveway. After a few minutes the reservoir started filling up. I shut it off and it overflowed out of the reservoir bottle.

Researching this specific issue showed possible bad radiator cap. Don't remember if I replaced it when I put the new radiator in, so I bought a new one. Ran same conditions above (idle, drive, idle) in warmer outside temperature and it did not overheat. Stayed just above 210. As it started to creep up, the e-fan would kick in and it would slowly come back down.

At this point, water pump, thermostat, radiator, upper and lower hoses and heater hoses have all been replaced. Water pump and radiator were necessary based on condition even if they had nothing to do with overheating issues. They couldn't have been helping.

My daughter has been driving it to and from work (less than 2mi round trip) for the past day or so. I'll keep an eye on it. Hopefully the radiator cap helps.

I did pull the oil filler cap and did not see any discoloration of the oil or anything to indicate a crack on the head. Maybe on the next oil change I'll get it tested to find out for sure.

Sean
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Unread 06-26-2012, 08:43 AM   #12
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How about the fan clutch?

My cherokee used to have overheating issues. The fan clutch helped a little but it continued to overheat a bit.

My original water pump impellers were good, but definitely the cause of the overheating.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 08:58 AM   #13
njsurfmaster
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How about the fan clutch?

My cherokee used to have overheating issues. The fan clutch helped a little but it continued to overheat a bit.

My original water pump impellers were good, but definitely the cause of the overheating.
Fan clutch will be next. Another thing that can't hurt.

Sean
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Unread 06-26-2012, 10:52 AM   #14
bobthecatkiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njsurfmaster

Fan clutch will be next. Another thing that can't hurt.

Sean
If your getting a new fan clutch you might as well get the hd one.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 10:58 AM   #15
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An almost instant jump from 210* to 260* points to a weak radiator cap. You didn't mention if you have a new one. Buy a 16 lbs STANT premium cap or a genuine JEEP cap.

A new fan clutch never hurts, they do get old and wear out.

When re-filling the radiator, fill it full with the engine off, start the engine and keep filling as the level drops and air bubbles come out. When the thermostat opens there will be a small surge of coolant, and some over flow from the filler neck. When you see that, put the cap on and fill the reservoir. Monitor the radiator and reservoir levels everyday for about 4-6 days.
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