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Bilstein Shock Upgrade Kits, Jeep JK TJ XJ Wranglers and CJK Vent Covers - NalinMFGRCV Axles at CCOR

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Unread 12-22-2012, 04:53 PM   #1
HanksRide
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Trailer Build, Newbie At This

I am starting with a trailer I purchased in 1998 for $150.00 to haul my 4-wheeler ATV around for deer hunting. This was long before I got into jeeps. The trailer served me well for several years but I later bought a bigger trailer to haul two 4 wheelers and this one has been sitting in the elements every since. The trailer always pulled great but was covered with plywood for a deck and sides. All of that has rotted away over the years. So now it is just the frame, axle and tires (dry rotted, but still has air in them).

As it sit earlier today.





As it sits now after I stripped it down a bit.


This was original configuration.


But I think I can rotate the axle up into this configuration and get the approx needed hight to matchup to my YJ.



Spring Packs that were on it. I plan on re-using them. Does anyone see a problem with that.



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Unread 12-22-2012, 05:02 PM   #2
HanksRide
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Ok, now that I got the first pics uploaded I guess I will explain my plan for this thing.

I want a trailer that I can use to pull behind the YJ but probably will not be taking it on rough trails to much. I want it to be fully enclosed with a removable top. I would be taking the top off at times to haul my 4-wheeler for hunting. Other times I would leave the top on there to haul luggage for road trips with the jeep etc.. I am not looking to make a camping trailer out of it. Just something simple for those two things. I do have a good tent that I would probably haul if I do want to take it camping, so the enclosed trailer would work great for that, hunting supplies and tent etc.

I was thinking of going back all wooden bed and sides with either treated wood or well painted pine tongue and groove wood. I would like the top to be a hard top of some kind that raises from the side on shocks but is still easy to remove completely when i wanted to.


Questions: Will the frame I have shape up enough to be a good solid trailer. The metal is rusted and pitted in places but still seems to have plenty of strength to it. Would I need to get it sand blasted or is there a better way to get the rust beat down and ready for paint??

I could wire wheel it and probably get most in pretty good shape but I would be afraid I wouldn't be able to get in the tight places to good and this would allow for future rusting.

Would POR15 be the best thing to use on the frame once I get the rust removed?
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HanksRide
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95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch
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Unread 12-24-2012, 04:32 AM   #3
Baitis
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2004 WJ 
 
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Location: Essex, Maryland
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I wouldn't haul anything of value on that trailer - camping gear is about the only weight I'd put on it. A 4-wheeler with gear needs a good tube/box frame trailer. There's structure behind the axles so the trailer will collapse as you try to drive on. The axle looks okay if it's sealed at the ends - they corrode from the inside out. The springs are $30 a side to replace and the set you have may have cracks or just be worn out. You can really inspect the springs without removing the bands and taking them apart. The lower axle position is better for loading/unloading and lower cg. I assume you're using a bumper hitch and can't change the drop at the Jeep. There are adjustable couplings (about 8" of adjustability) that can be welded to the trailer frame. Blasting would be the easiest way to clean the frame and then coat with bedliner to seal it. Replace the wheel bearings too. Easternmarine has tons of trailer parts and fair prices; I use them for my boat and motorcycle trailers and service has been great.
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Unread 12-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #4
HanksRide
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baitis
I wouldn't haul anything of value on that trailer - camping gear is about the only weight I'd put on it. A 4-wheeler with gear needs a good tube/box frame trailer. There's structure behind the axles so the trailer will collapse as you try to drive on. The axle looks okay if it's sealed at the ends - they corrode from the inside out. The springs are $30 a side to replace and the set you have may have cracks or just be worn out. You can really inspect the springs without removing the bands and taking them apart. The lower axle position is better for loading/unloading and lower cg. I assume you're using a bumper hitch and can't change the drop at the Jeep. There are adjustable couplings (about 8" of adjustability) that can be welded to the trailer frame. Blasting would be the easiest way to clean the frame and then coat with bedliner to seal it. Replace the wheel bearings too. Easternmarine has tons of trailer parts and fair prices; I use them for my boat and motorcycle trailers and service has been great.
I used this trailer a few years back and hauled my 4-wheeler for hundreds of miles over several deer seasons and never had an issue with it. I replaced the wheel bearings toward the end of the time I was using it. I also used it on my place to haul loads of wet creek gravel and would pick the whole trailer up with my tractor to dump it. I will prob add a couple support pieces to the rear section. I too think it looks a little weak in that area but collapse I don't think will happen. Springs are fine, surface rust is all I really have to deal with. I took a wire wheel to the frame and have removed most of it already.

As for height, I want it to pull level and I have a 2" receiver in my rear bumper but don't want to use a step down for clearance reasons if I do get off road with it. I will putt 33" tires on it to match the jeep.
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HanksRide
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95yj 4.0L, 4" RC Lift, 8.8, Aussie Locker, Posi-Lok, Rock Sliders, 1" Booms, 33 X 12.50's, Rhino Lining, KC Day Lighters, Rock Bumpers, LED Dash Lights, XRC10 Winch
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Unread 01-02-2013, 02:33 PM   #5
BigKen2
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Hank,
I do not have access to a sand blaster so I have been using Auspho?? (spelling) and under the name of GEMS from paint supplier. The first time I saw this stuff was offshore drilling back in the early '80's and it works great. It may come under a different name but it is phosphoric acid solution. Just follow the directions and use proper protective equipment. I just used this on an old trailer that I reconditioned. It forms a protective layer. Back on the drilling rig that was all they used before applying top coating. I too hunt and use my trailers for ATV's and what not. I would not hesitate to use that one as a project. If you or someone you know can weld I would weld a top rail around the sides and front at least as high as the center of your 4 wheeler tires to give additional strength and keep your 4 wheeler on the trailer.
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