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Old 04-01-2009, 10:32 PM   #1
mickmeister
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Offroad Camping Trailer

Here is the plan I have devised for building the trailer:

Design Goals:
Create an off-road trailer capable of carrying and storing all camping supplies in a neatly configured setup. This will not only simplify the management of camping materials, but it will also expedite the process of leaving and returning, thereby negating any hassles of pre and post checklists.

Design Requirements:
1. Off-road capability to sustain
2. Security boxes for camping supply storage
3. Two drop down, hinged tables for cooking
4. 4 inch lift kit
5. Swivel lantern hanger
6. Enough capacity for one week worth of camping
7. Pull out trays for cooking platforms

Design Specifications:
• Trailer Bed Dimensions: 7’ x 4’ (2 inch square steel tubing)
• Axle and Hubs are rated for 2000 pounds
• 3 Buyer’s Black Toolboxes with locks (18”x18”x48”)
• Bracket to secure two 20# propane tanks
• Bracket to secure 82 quart ice chest
• 1/8" steel sheeting for floor
• 3-15” Radial P205/75 Tires
• Dexter D35 Lead Spring Axle
• 15” Wheel Rims
• 48” side pull out trays for a cooking platform
• Custom commode storage container

Design Summary:
The trailer will be outfitted with a 2” lift off-road package to facilitate either of our jeeps. It will possess three standard toolboxes and one custom storage container, serving the function of camping gear storage. The side pull-out counters will serve the function of a cooking counters. The brackets will secure the propane tanks in the center of the trailer for general use, and the ice chest at the forward of the trailer. The spare tire will be mounted underneath the trailer. The two inch square tubing will be powder coated at a paint shop for long lasting durability.

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Old 04-01-2009, 10:34 PM   #2
mickmeister
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I have finished welding the first three sides of the frame.





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Old 04-02-2009, 01:05 AM   #3
mickmeister
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So now the frame is completely welded!

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Old 04-06-2009, 12:57 AM   #4
mickmeister
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Here are the latest pictures:



























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Old 04-06-2009, 12:59 AM   #5
mickmeister
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So I have gotten the trailer at least on the wheels and have test driven it. My wife followed behind and said it looked perfect on the road. The next thing we are going to do is to clean the steel with a power washer and 409 to free it of dirt and oil to ready it for priming. After that, we will paint it, we think, to match the Jeep's color. After the painting is finished, we will cut out the steel plating to lay the floor and then proceed with attaching the shelving to hold the boxes.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:54 AM   #6
JIMBOX
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I wish you all the luck in the world, but

You're placement of the trailer axle, will INSURE that when done and totally packed, the trailer will have at least 45/75 % of trailer weight on the tongue--UNSAT

It appears that you will overload the rear suspension of your jeep and have dangerous sway problems

Just a thought

JIMBO
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:13 AM   #7
mickmeister
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That is true where it is placed right now, but I have also made the axle variable, meaning that it can be moved up and down the trailer. Right now, I have it all the way to the end.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:23 PM   #8
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why do you have 3 2" receivers?
i like the variable axle thing. ideal weight distribution for different loads.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:51 PM   #9
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I installed three receivers to distribute the weight among them. I realize I did a little bit on an overkill, but too much in that area is better than too little.
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmeister View Post
I installed three receivers to distribute the weight among them. I realize I did a little bit on an overkill, but too much in that area is better than too little.
You could drill holes in the main tounge and use the 3 recievers as a slide also and shorten the whole trailer as well as the axles. Run it longer for lighter loads and on the highway or shorten it up and pull it behind you on the trail where it'll track closer to your Jeep. How thick is your tounge beam also? If it's very thin your going to run into problems with it bending at your first receiver from the length once you get weight on the trailer and start bouncing around. I'm looking forward to seeing this when your finished.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:06 PM   #11
mickmeister
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Everything is 2"x2" tubing. The trailer frame is 3/16" thickness, while the tounge beam is 1/4", and the rest of the tubes are 1/8". The plates holding the axle onto the trailer are 1/4" thick.
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Old 04-06-2009, 11:11 PM   #12
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Another thing I have done for security is where the pintle hitch hook is. I used a 2 inch receiver tube to slide over the tounge tube with a hole for the pin. I realize most people are not going to have a pintle hitch to hook it right up to and take off, but this also lets me remove the hook for added security if we leave our camp site for the day.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:05 AM   #13
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Of course thats a good idea, I have Pintle/Lunette/lock & Roll/Ball hitch setups all interchangeble, but you must use locking hitch pins


Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmeister View Post
Another thing I have done for security is where the pintle hitch hook is. I used a 2 inch receiver tube to slide over the tounge tube with a hole for the pin. I realize most people are not going to have a pintle hitch to hook it right up to and take off, but this also lets me remove the hook for added security if we leave our camp site for the day.
A thief may not have the right hookup to steal your trailer, but will take the hitch instead and then you're in deep caca !!!

I'm also a little leary about the length of your 2" traiker tongue, too much flexing, can disable mild steel 2" square stock--

Good luck

JIMBO
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:46 AM   #14
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I haven't posted in a while because I had gotten tired of it. I am now back on the project and finished putting the primer on it Saturday. Tonight, we are moving the axle up to distribute the weight more evenly and then painting it to match to color of the Jeep. After the paint job, I am taking it to a machine shop for them to use a plasma torch and cut out the holes in the floor plate to drop the floor straight down on it. They can cut those out far faster than I could ever do with a jig saw. After that, we will attach the upper brackets to install the boxes, which will be the last major portion of the project. At that point, the minor stuff will remain such as installing the cooking trays, firewood straps, and such.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:27 PM   #15
mickmeister
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So after another two months, I have finally gotten it back on track. The axles were moved to their optimal position, the floor is now installed, the trailer lights are installed, The license plate holder is installed, the upper brackets are welded together and are ready to be placed onto the trailer. Shew, I am now about 90% finished! I will post new pictures tonight.
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