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Unread 12-06-2007, 03:51 PM   #16
dooboy2112
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Where did you get those corner brackets?

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Unread 12-09-2007, 10:32 PM   #17
irish44j
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my parents' company uses several of these for light-duty use and has been pretty pleased with them, for the price...
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Unread 12-10-2007, 09:06 PM   #18
lupinsea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dooboy2112
Where did you get those corner brackets?
Got the corner brackets at a local hardware store. If you have a trailer outfit near you you can probably get them there. Otherwise, on-line I've seen them here. You'll need four brackets total with two lefts and two rights.
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Unread 03-26-2008, 09:23 PM   #19
kdavis08
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Corner Brackets

GREAT writeup. I just built one of these trailers and I followed your advice. Thanks!

I can't fine the corner brackets you used for the wood panels. What are they called and where did you find them?

Ken
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Unread 03-27-2008, 02:36 AM   #20
Tony-2
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On those Harbor freight trailers.The tow bar section with out warning can twist and bend causing the trailer lose control. I replaced it with some heavy tubing and a better cross bar. I pretty much replaced and welded most of the frame because it is pretty flimsy and I replace those slipper springs because that's where most of the noise comes from.
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Unread 04-01-2008, 07:00 PM   #21
lupinsea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdavis08 View Post
GREAT writeup. I just built one of these trailers and I followed your advice. Thanks!

I can't fine the corner brackets you used for the wood panels. What are they called and where did you find them?

Ken
There's a link in the post right above yours that goes to Northern Tool. They're right there the page.





Tony-2, I've been watching the trailer as I've been using it these last several months. I can see where there'd be a problem with the toungue but with having it welded I think it helps significantly. Welding the whole trailer as well as much as possible has also definitely been a good idea. You're right, the whole trailer frame is on the flimsy side and welding will definitely help. But then, anyone who sees this trailer in person will probably come to the same conclusions.




As a bit of an update:

I've come to REALLY like this little trailer. So far I've used it to haul:
  • about 20 yards (in about fifteen 1.5 yrd trips) of rototilled sod for disposal
  • made several dump runs with bulky loads
  • hauled rented power equipment with the flat deck (no sides)
  • moved large pieces of furniture
  • picked up various loads of building materials for a remodel project

It has performed flawlessly at each of these tasks. What I've been finding is that except for the sod hauling most loads in the trailer tend to be bulky, not heavy. . . so it's modest load rating is not an issue. And the sod loads were right at the trailer's max weight limit.

Working through the side-panel and hinge design to maintain 48"+ internal clearance REALLY paid off when picking up building materials, especially 4x8 sheets of drywall and plywood.



These modular concrete form panels fit just right in the trailer's
48 3/8" clear-width bed area


Bearings seem to be holding up well. Even on the heaviest sod runs at max weight and 55-60 mph freeway speeds the bearings / hubs were nice and cool. And they've been nice and tights without play when I've checked for looseness in the hub

The extra effort put into the "quick" lock down features also really pays off. Without any tools the trailer can go from folded up and stored to hooked up with side panels installed in 3-5 minutes. Same time to stow the trailer after I'm done using it.


Most of the noise I've noticed comes from:
  • Play in the receiver / hitch with no load on the trailer (it jiggles)
  • the tongue-to-front trailer frame connection
  • My screen-door securing hooks
  • Panels w/ the corner brackets (they clang with some play)

Noises are GREATLY reduce with a load in the trailer.

When empty I use my 48" bungies at the forward and rear tie-down points and run them over the panels to keep tension on the panels. It keeps them from bang on all but the roughest bumps
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Last edited by lupinsea; 04-02-2008 at 11:32 AM..
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Unread 04-08-2008, 02:38 PM   #22
lupinsea
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Some links and formulas were added under the 4) Resources area in the original post to help people figure out how much 'stuff' they can haul in their trailers without exceeding GVWR limits.
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Unread 05-06-2008, 02:07 PM   #23
kizer
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Lupinsea

I never saw this review. Kinda cool. I remember you calling me and asking me about my trailer and if it was worth a beans and I told you to buy a Harbor Freight trailer because they fold up. hahaha, little did I know you'd go all gang busters on it.

Mine is probably at least 10+ years old and I should replace the side boards so things dont fall out.
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Unread 05-08-2008, 07:23 PM   #24
lupinsea
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Yup.... thanks for letting me bug you about all those questions, Kizer. It helped settle my mind on the HF trailer. She's been doing good so far! I keep it folded up against the garage out of the weather under the car port along with the flat sides that are stacked next to it.
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Unread 05-23-2008, 02:36 PM   #25
LaCeS OuT
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Nice. I bought that as my first trailer. I used 4x4s and 2x6s to make a 2 quad trailer. I also changed out the hubs (because they suck) with 2000 lbs hubs from Northern Tool for $40.

Sold it and now I have a 10x5 Belmont trailer and love it.
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Unread 08-05-2008, 02:46 AM   #26
waterboarder
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I am in the process of modifying mine. I am replacing the rear-most member with a real bumper. It's extremely thick c-channel, about 4.5" wide scrap metal. Same kind that I'm using for my real off-road trailer (:

I've cut out ovals for inset Trucklite stop/turn/tail lights in the bumper. Next, I need to take the rear member out and drill bolt holes as necessary to bolt this one into its place. We'll see how it goes. I'll post pictures when I have some progress (:

By the way - the purpose of this mod isn't really to get a new bumper. It's to get rid of the side-mounted tail lights that seem to get easily damaged. I've broken mine several times now. Getting the new bumper is just an extra - a lot of work that I was hoping to avoid, but the existing rear member is just too thin to let me put the lines in.
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Unread 08-05-2008, 11:35 AM   #27
TheGillz
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T-dog, you better step up your writeups! You are definatly being challenged for the title of JK O/C poster boy!
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Unread 08-05-2008, 11:39 AM   #28
waterboarder
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I was just trying to help out others. I guess I can keep my stuff to myself - certainly a lot less effort. Thanks for the heads up.
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Unread 08-05-2008, 02:08 PM   #29
TheGillz
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Seemed a little touchy? I was just flipping you crap. Didn't mean to offend.
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......[]]............/||[]
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Unread 09-29-2008, 10:46 PM   #30
Golfer2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaCeS OuT View Post
Nice. I bought that as my first trailer. I used 4x4s and 2x6s to make a 2 quad trailer. I also changed out the hubs (because they suck) with 2000 lbs hubs from Northern Tool for $40.

Sold it and now I have a 10x5 Belmont trailer and love it.
Do you have any pictures of your old modified trailer?
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