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Unread 08-18-2011, 06:05 PM   #1
TankCJ7
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flat towing cj7

Hey guys. I am thinking of making a tow bar for my jeep to tow it to a new off road spot. What does it take to flat tow my jeep? Can i hook the tow bar to my d rings on my bumper? What should i put the tcase and tranny in?

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Unread 08-22-2011, 05:11 PM   #2
dmkx3
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neutral for both, and i bought one from harbor freight for $50 or so. towed my tj behind my 1500 ram. worked ok.
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Unread 08-23-2011, 07:14 PM   #3
MPond
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I currently have an LJ, and flat-tow it all the time. But before that I had a CJ-7, which I also flat-towed regularly.

I'm certain that the LJ is supposed to be in 6th-gear (or Park if an Automatic Trans) when being towed 4-down, with the transfer case in Neutral.

I'm also pretty confident that my CJ was supposed to be in 5th gear when being flat-towed, but I no longer have the maual to refer back to.
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Unread 08-24-2011, 09:31 AM   #4
alecmcmahon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmkx3 View Post
neutral for both, and i bought one from harbor freight for $50 or so. towed my tj behind my 1500 ram. worked ok.
Extremely wrong.


If manual , T-case in Neutral, Transmission in 5th gear.

If Auto, T-case in Neutral, Transmission in Park

But since you have a CJ:
Quote:
1980-86 cj / fsj with the Dana 300 t-case CAN NOT be towed..... UNLESS It has been clocked to a flat position so the oil will contact the output gear and fling oil to lube it's self. (clocked or turned up for more ground clearance)

Read more: http://forums.jpmagazine.com/70/6453...#ixzz1VxdoIuJy
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Unread 08-24-2011, 06:24 PM   #5
TankCJ7
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that blows.
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Unread 08-25-2011, 03:16 AM   #6
MPond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
...But since you have a CJ: 1980-86 cj / fsj with the Dana 300 t-case CAN NOT be towed..... UNLESS It has been clocked to a flat position so the oil will contact the output gear and fling oil to lube it's self. (clocked or turned up for more ground clearance)
I'm very surprised to hear this, as I used to tow my '85 CJ-7 with the stock transfer case all over the place, and never had any issues. Was I just lucky?
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Unread 08-25-2011, 03:47 AM   #7
99_TJ_Wyoming
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If you get the trans / trans part worked out, I have the HF tow bar and it works very well, I also go the Warrior products D-Ring adapters (cheaper at amazon but still ships from Morris 4x4) and they work even better than the original bolt on tow points, I strongly recommend the D-Ring adapter upgrade.
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Unread 02-10-2012, 08:10 AM   #8
Zorty
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Just browsing through some threads to kill some time and came across this one. I don't mean to dig up an older thread, but I figured I'd throw in another good word for the Warrior D-ring adapters. I use them to flat tow my CJ (Auto TF999 in Park and Dana 300 in Neutral. Front hubs open and rear driveshaft taken off) and they work amazing. Kept me from having to put an extra set of mounts and holes in the front JCR bumper I have. Keeps the front much cleaner and simple. Make sure you remember the lights for the jeep/trailer. If you don't go the magnetic route, I was able to tap into the wiring harness and splice in a long trailer connector coming out the front grill (tucked away when not needed) that would run the rear brake and side clearance lights and keep everything legal. Good luck with the tow setup.

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Unread 02-10-2012, 12:38 PM   #9
wilson1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPond View Post
I'm very surprised to hear this, as I used to tow my '85 CJ-7 with the stock transfer case all over the place, and never had any issues. Was I just lucky?
Everyone has towed CJ's flat with no problem. This is one of those theoretical problems that should be a problem, but isn't actually a problem.

Of course, I cut my grass three times with a mower that had zero crankcase oil and used the mower for 10 years afterward. How was I supposed to know the guy I got it from drained the oil in the winter.
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Unread 02-10-2012, 10:09 PM   #10
MPond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
Everyone has towed CJ's flat with no problem. This is one of those theoretical problems that should be a problem, but isn't actually a problem.

Of course, I cut my grass three times with a mower that had zero crankcase oil and used the mower for 10 years afterward. How was I supposed to know the guy I got it from drained the oil in the winter.
I'm glad this thread was revived - I'd wondered about this question.
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Unread 02-18-2012, 07:49 PM   #11
bsutton
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i have a clocked D300 t- case, (not completely flat), and flat tow it with the tcase in neutral and the NV4500 in neutral as well.
the first few times i've towed it, i stopped and checked the tcase to see if it got hot or not, and it did not get hot.- it was warm, though...
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Unread 02-19-2012, 09:38 AM   #12
dmkx3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alecmcmahon View Post
Extremely wrong.


If manual , T-case in Neutral, Transmission in 5th gear.

If Auto, T-case in Neutral, Transmission in Park

But since you have a CJ:
why put thetrans in 5th gear???
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Unread 02-19-2012, 12:24 PM   #13
MPond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmkx3 View Post
why put thetrans in 5th gear???
Because even with the transfer case in Neutral, the viscous fluid can transfer motion to the output side of the transmission, which can cause it to rotate. If it rotates without the engine running to provide lubrication it can do damage to the trans.

Leaving it it gear/park prevents this from happening.
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Unread 02-20-2012, 11:56 AM   #14
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^^^^ with this^^^^
i'm not trying to be a smart a$$, but, i have an NV4500 tranny, which is a huge transmission..could that fluid move those gears that much to cause an issue?- i'm not trying to be ignorant or stupid, just trying to understand...

thanks for your time!
brian
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