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#76 | |
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DelmarvaOffroad.com
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Can't beat the cummins! Go take a look and throw down a $14,000 ish offer and see what happens. I bet with the economy the way it $14,000 may take you home a new truck. And then once you get the truck you can give me the cap
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Michael Ferrari TJ Based Buggy <BUILD THREAD> Team 120 - DOR Racing - Racing for Operation Homefront Thanks to our Sponsors: Delmarva Offroad - F-O-A Shocks - BD Turnkey Engine - Under Cover Fab - Jer-C Transmissions - Quigley Driveshafts Operation Homefront (OHF) provides emergency financial and other assistance to the families of our service members and wounded warriors. Delmarva Offroad You call it rolling, we call it R&D! 443-951-JEEP |
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#77 |
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Registered User
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i emailed him and he will take it down from 16 and change to around 15,500. im trying to get 15,500 with taxes included so 15,500 plus tags n fees. should i be worried since its used with something breaking. i know the cummins are strong as hell but for 15,500 with no warrenty anyone with cummins have issues? this is going to be my DD and tow twice a month or so. anything to look for when test driving other than the torq converting slipping, any noises, long start. it comes with a 3 or 1 month 1,000 mile warrenty.
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#78 | |
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Quote:
The blue books are really just a ballpark anyway...the real question is if you feel that is what the truck is worth. Way too many people ask crazy high prices for their vehicles thinking someone will talk them down 1 or 2k anyway and then they can get what they want for it. Good documentation and less then normal wear and tear could make a truck worth a little more. It looks like a really clean truck to me. The absolute best thing you can do, is find one or two other trucks of similar model year with fairly close mileage (I realize that may not be easy) and test drive them...helps you get a good feel for the truck in general. At 66k though, that truck is just barely broken in. As far as what to look for, check for signs that it's been painted, get a carfax, etc. to make sure it hasn't been wrecked. As far as mechanical breakdowns...hard to predict but you take a risk with any used car that doesn't have a warranty. Usually your gut will tell you something doesn't feel right ...at least mine does anyway. I got burned for a couple thousand a few years back...I learned a little since then...it's always buyer beware and with a used car...your stuck and there is very little you can do even if the person misrepresents the car. If they have maintenance records and can prove the truck was maintained...that is usually a good sign that it was taken care of.
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SOLD2008 WK CRD Limited 4x4 - Jeep Green CRD TURBO SEAL OIL LEAK FIX WK CRD - EGR CLEANING WRITE-UP MY FUEL ECONOMY DATABASE Last edited by no-blue-screen; 12-03-2008 at 09:54 PM.. |
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#79 |
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Registered User
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Here are two things I found:
An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Evaporative (EVAP) Leak Detection Pump, 5.9L engines only. This problem may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. The cost to replace the Leak Detection Pump is estimated at $108.79 for parts and $19.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax. --------------------------- An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the Governor Pressure Sensor (5.9L engines only) with an Automatic Transmission. This problem may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. The cost to replace the Governor Pressure Sensor is estimated at $70.77 for parts and $65.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
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SOLD2008 WK CRD Limited 4x4 - Jeep Green CRD TURBO SEAL OIL LEAK FIX WK CRD - EGR CLEANING WRITE-UP MY FUEL ECONOMY DATABASE |
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#80 |
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thanks for the insight. its about 6 hrs away and the way the truck looks i think it might be worth the trip. looks amazing exterior. he sent me some more interior and exterior pictures the other day which also looked great and in good condition. for 66000 miles its hardly any miles. im looking for a low mileage DD so this looks reallly nice, an the cap is nice. Im going to be financing it to help build my credit so the payments for 15500 should be low. ive driven some 7.3s but no cummins, since its hard to find any low mileage cummins around here. im really looking into this truck just wanna be sure i shouldnt be worrying about the no mileage thing. thats kinda why i want to go with a cummins since you only really need routine oil maintenance and fuel filters and such. I will be plugging it in every night and using anti-gelling additives.
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#81 |
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Registered User
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The only way to know is to check it out...sounds like a cool day-trip anyway
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SOLD2008 WK CRD Limited 4x4 - Jeep Green CRD TURBO SEAL OIL LEAK FIX WK CRD - EGR CLEANING WRITE-UP MY FUEL ECONOMY DATABASE |
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#82 |
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Yeah it does...wanna join ya...know anything bout cummins?
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#83 |
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DelmarvaOffroad.com
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I just bought my 01 a few months ago. On the test drive make sure the trans feels good. We all know that the trans are not the strongest on these trucks.
From my research they are stout, you will be replacing the transmission, lift pump, and injection pump at some point which can get pricey but other than that they are very nice. I bought mine used with 120k miles in Sept and I have over 130k now with alot of it having the trailer behind the truck. I love it and wouldn't go any other route...
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Michael Ferrari TJ Based Buggy <BUILD THREAD> Team 120 - DOR Racing - Racing for Operation Homefront Thanks to our Sponsors: Delmarva Offroad - F-O-A Shocks - BD Turnkey Engine - Under Cover Fab - Jer-C Transmissions - Quigley Driveshafts Operation Homefront (OHF) provides emergency financial and other assistance to the families of our service members and wounded warriors. Delmarva Offroad You call it rolling, we call it R&D! 443-951-JEEP |
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#84 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I'd try and work the price a little lower. Nobody is moving cars right now, new or used. It's a buyers market. I have an 02 and I love it, plan on holding onto it for a long time to come. The 98.5-02 are great tow vehicles and once you get used to the noise they are great drivers too. Modern enough to keep up with the brand-new $40K+ on the interstate, tons of upgrades and they are getting cheap now that the 04.5+ 600 trucks are coming off loan/lease and flooding the market at a bad time to sell vehicles. the cummins does not have an EVAP system, that bulletin you are reading is for the gas trucks. The gov pressure sensor switch usually fails along with the 2nd gear shift soleniod in my experience, neither are hard to change once you get the pan off. If you mod the engine at all, plan on changing the trans out sooner than later. |
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#85 |
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yeah ill check on those parts ive heard about those. ill probably upgrade or put a new lift pump on it when i get it if i do just to hopefully make the injector last longer and im going to try to be gentle with the transmission. but hopin with 66,000 on it those parts will last a couple more years.
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#86 |
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Registered User
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Let us know if you get it. I BOMBed (Better off modified baby) a 1997 12V and now have an 06 that I am in the process of putting back into the 500hp/1000lb-ft. The trannies do need work if you are going to do any sort of modifications, but you can run up to about 450hp with an upgraded converter, and some valvebody work. Not a huge deal (although the cost for a triple disk convertor can run upwards of 1k-1.5k). Preventative, no hp making modifications are the most important and should be the first thing you do. These include gauges and some form of aftermarket lift pump. Most people run a FASS system but there are a couple others out there that are pretty decent. For gauges, the make doesn't really matter, but make sure you have an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge, especially if towing. Keeping yourself under 1200* will greatly prolong the life of your turbo and your truck. I would also get a tranny temp and fuel pressure if you get a 24V. The VP44 is cooled by fuel and modifications or a heavy foot pulling up a long hill can starve the pump and cause it to overheat.
I could go on and on, but I figure I will wait to you buy it and then we can chat. I love the 5.9 and contrary to some beliefs the 6.7 isn't all that bad. My brother has one of those and after his first DPF was replaced under warranty he hasn't had any issues. My preference would be a 1998 12V extended cab, I (this is all personal) would skip the 24V and go straight for a common rail truck (money permitting). Just my .02
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1977 CJ7 4 inch suspension lift, 35 X 12.50 mud rovers. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, FASS 150, SMARTY, full set of gauges. |
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#87 |
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Registered User
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yeah well im trying to keep low payements since im going to be buying a condo or something soon i want to keep the 10,000 in my bank for a downpayment. yeah ill let you know im going to look at it tomorrow. I was going to get the edge and juice for power later on but for now for the guages n turbo timer. then get a new lift pump, change the fluids of course, and then probably the fass system. From there probably exhaust either mbrp or banks then an intake system then Ill be done probably. Anyone install a FASS or even the BD system I saw? are they difficuly? with 66,000 miles I want to keep it for awhile if I get it
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2005 Unlimited Rubicon Hard N Soft Tops, Clayton Long Arm on RE Coils, Warn Bumper/Tire Carrier, Warn Winch N Bumper, Currie Steering, JKS Quicker Disconnects, JKS Front Trac Bar, Bilsteins, CO2 System..Yada Yada Yada |
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#88 |
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Registered User
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The edge is nice, but I think the smarty is better. The benefit to the Edge is you can get the attitude monitor with it. If you are going to have gauges then you don't really need the attitude. The smarty is made by MADs and is Dodge focused only. I think you get better performance out of something dedicated to a specific brand then a general which ever model you have we have a part for.
FASS is pretty simple. I would do that first, especially if you get a 24V. Fuel pressure to the VP44 is critical to long term life of the pump. Turbo timer is not that important, just convienent. If you have an EGT gauge, then you can wait for the truck to reach a suitable temp for shut down. It doesn't take as long as you think. I ease the truck into the driveway, get out, check the mailbox and most times the truck is back to about 350* so I shut it down. What you are really trying to avoid is shutting the truck down with anything over 400*. It really doesn't take that long. So, long story short I would save the money on the turbo timer.
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1977 CJ7 4 inch suspension lift, 35 X 12.50 mud rovers. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, FASS 150, SMARTY, full set of gauges. |
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#89 |
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I installed my FASS a little over a year ago when I lost my VP44, it's pretty straightforward just follow the included instructions. The only advice I can give is while you're priming the system, have someone pressurize the tank using an air nozzle with a rag wrapped around it over the filler neck. When I installed mine I was doing it by myself priming the pump with the key, it took over an hour to get fuel to the IP. When I changed the fuel filter and water seperator a couple weeks ago my dad pressurized the tank with a rag and an air nozzle and it took less than one pump prime cycle to bleed all the air out.
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#90 |
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Registered User
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if the converters slipping a cummins will run forever if built and maintained the right way. i have roughly 86k on my 05. most say she is just getting broke in. i replaced the tranny at 70k with a built goerends tranny for $6k- ill never have a tranny problem with that truck as long as i have it pretty much. installed a fass 150 pusher pump, supplies the cp3 with plenty of fuel when i romp on her. i had the truck up to the 450hp/850tq(had the smarty, smarty jr, and quad xzt thus far) range but demodded it. now as she sits- stock with a 5" turbo back exhaust, gauges, FASS and a built tranny. still has plenty of go and i know she could pull whatever i put behind her..
any dodge auto in a diesel will need replacing- i hear the new 6 speed autos are sweet. the 48re/47re are fine stock. but i have heard of stock trucks slipping a converter, hell a boosted launch or two will snap an input shaft and really put you out a few thousand for a tranny. in the 2nd gens like mferraris- like he said do a lift pump upgrade like an airdog or a fass. those things are notorious for having stock pumps take dumps at some of the worse times. other than that- keep up on maintenance and you will get 500k out of the truck. most say the truck will fall apart before the motor does in these things. they are fun- one of the main reasons i bought mine, plus it was so plush and comfortable compared to my tj so i had to upgrade. good luck!
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07 WK Laredo 4.7 QT II - BA sound - 6k HID fogs/lows - Daystar 2" BB - Bilstein HDs - Addco Rear - SRT front - 2" Bwoody links - 255/75 GY Silent Armors - 1/4" wheel spacers - Black JK Moabs - SC Flashpaq - Fastman TB - 22" Magnaflow - Tinted tails |
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