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Unread 07-10-2008, 12:16 PM   #61
nwm52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texasdog View Post
In this next picture set, you can see how the front/side stabilizer are welded on, how they work, and what their multiple functionalities are. There is one of these on each side, plus the rear bumper will have two, one at each rear corner.

Each of these 4 points serves as a:
a). Jack point (specifically a hi-lift jack point).
b). Stabilizer when parked and disconnected from tow vehicle
c). Awning/tent pole mounting point

The pictures pretty much tell the story of how these work. Each unit consists of the jack point, welded to the frame, an L-shaped mounting unit that slides into the jack point and provides a vertical tube point for the stabilizer tube bar, and the stablizer tube bar itself - which will be "capped" on one end, with a hole drilled through the cap so that a tent pole can slide down there and be supported by the tube.

Having these in place will help keep the trailer level when parked, without needing jack stands. The advantage over "traditional" crank-down stabilizer is that I don't really lose any ground clearance, plus I get the two added benefits of designated jack points and awning/tent pole support points.
Looks like it will weigh more than the Unlimited. Why so much tubing? It would be fine to tow a large tractor or something similar. By the time you’re done building it and loading it up, you will a need 600-hp v8 just to get rolling.

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Unread 07-10-2008, 01:40 PM   #62
waterboarder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puttputt56 View Post
I like most of the design of your off-road trailer but have one real concern about it and that is the tongue of the trailer!! Tongue weight? I am a strong believer in triangulation and believe you will find that the tongue will bend as it is design now(if you have to make a quick stop or swirve out of the way of something). A solid bar may help stop it a little but that will just add more weight to the tongue. You could add triangulation by welding some box tubing to the sides of the trailer and at the point they meet the tongue add another slip box tubing so it just sticks out a short way passed the trailer. Once you add (fill) that front box with supples it is going to be a bear to lift and connect it to the tow vehicle. puttputt56
Well, I specifically wanted a straight tongue - so that when backing up, I can jacknife it, if necessary, without damaging the Jeep. An A-frame type tongue would make that more difficult. That tubing is pretty damn sturdy though - it would take a lot of force to bend that thing.

As for tongue weight - well, that's why it has an adjustable axle. If I find the tongue weight is too much, I can always slide the axle back another notch and see how I like it.
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Unread 07-10-2008, 01:44 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwm52 View Post
Looks like it will weigh more than the Unlimited. Why so much tubing? It would be fine to tow a large tractor or something similar. By the time you’re done building it and loading it up, you will a need 600-hp v8 just to get rolling.
One guy thinks I need more tube, another says too much (:

I know the tubing is a little crazy. It's going to weigh more than i wanted by a fair deal. I'll admit it (: But I wanted something that was going to last - even if it is a bit over built. Current weight estimate when completed, when empty, is maybe 1700 pounds. The Jeep can tow 3500. Even though it is heavy, the cargo capacity of the trailer, with its 3500 pound suspension and beefy frame, will be able to carry a LOT of camping gear.
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Unread 07-10-2008, 08:01 PM   #64
puttputt56
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I understand what you are trying to do with the single tongue box tubing, but you can still add the triangulation by going from the 3rd back cross member (from the front) and running the angle pieces to the front cross brace and at that point add another receiver hitch so it doesn't stick out in your way as the jeep jack knifes. This will cut down on the leverage by about 18" on the tongue. I have seen it happen way to many times that the tongue bends either up or to one side. If you are off-roading and have to jack knife the trailer to get into or out of a location you will be putting alot of stress on that tongue. puttputt56
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Unread 07-10-2008, 08:48 PM   #65
waterboarder
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Well, I'll give it another look. But the way that it is done now - if it turns out that the single-tongue thing is going to be a problem, there is a way to enhance it with a triangular solution that doesn't eliminate my removable tongue feature.

But for my reference - can you diagram me your solution? I'm not quite following you.

Thanks!
td
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Unread 07-10-2008, 11:32 PM   #66
puttputt56
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I tried to reply but it said I had an error so tried again and it still told me that. puttputt56
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Unread 07-11-2008, 12:19 PM   #67
slimtwo
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Thank you for sharing your construction pics & comments. I am thinking about building a trailer for my TJ as well. I was first trying to find an M416 1/4 ton Military trailer or similar only with no luck so far. However resently my son and I were up camping in Holcomb Valley (Big Bear Ca) at the Pine flats camp ground, and a couple of families from hesparia pulled in to camp in a couple of JK's pulling a nice trailer. So being the sociable person I am, I went over to introduce myself and ask about their trailer. It was home built (about 4 x 6 feet) and looked like it would work very well for what I was looking for. And they told me they did it in a couple of weekends at a cost of about $2,000.00. It had a 12 volt battery with a solar charger mounted on the lid and lights. So now I plan on building my own, they said it was not that hard.

Keep up the good work!

Bruce
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Unread 07-11-2008, 04:55 PM   #68
waterboarder
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Hey, thanks (:

Based on my experience - whatever you plan to spend - you will spend more (:

I think if you're able to do it, home-built is the way to go. More time consuming - and possibly more expensive - but you can get something closer to what you want to end up with.
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Unread 07-11-2008, 05:18 PM   #69
ice blue
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Great build, I may have missed it, but how wide is the Axle?
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Unread 07-11-2008, 11:44 PM   #70
slimtwo
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keep the pic's comming, looking forward to seeing it with some skin.

Happy trails!

Bruce
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Unread 07-12-2008, 11:18 PM   #71
waterboarder
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Originally Posted by ice blue View Post
Great build, I may have missed it, but how wide is the Axle?
New axle is 65" hub face to hub face.
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Unread 07-15-2008, 03:50 PM   #72
TheGillz
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I love the stabilizers.

So you are saying that your tongue will always be pinned in both reciever tubes? I just wonder becuase the shots of it behind your jeep show it in just the front one, and it doesn't look like you could jacknife it 90 degrees if the shown bar were in both.

If so then I think you have bare minumum strength going on. As you can see from my trailer, I went with over kill. somewhere in between is probably Ideal, with at least some triangulation. IMO of course.
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Unread 07-15-2008, 07:48 PM   #73
waterboarder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGillz View Post
I love the stabilizers. So you are saying that your tongue will always be pinned in both reciever tubes? I just wonder becuase the shots of it behind your jeep show it in just the front one, and it doesn't look like you could jacknife it 90 degrees if the shown bar were in both.
Well, like I said - that is a temporary tongue (: The real one will be longer - and yes, it will always be pinned in both places, when in use.

That particular tongue was just a piece of scrap I used, so I could tow it out into the street and move the axle frame. It's destined to be cut up. I need two pieces of that tube to use for my rear bumper mount (:
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Unread 07-19-2008, 10:17 PM   #74
waterboarder
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Bumper complete

Well, my bumper is done (except paint prep and painting).

It looks....different. And it is definitely heavy duty. Allow me to explain why. One of the design goals for this trailer is to be able to carry my scooter (or similar machine) on a hitch-mounted rack on the back. Scooter weights about 400 pounds - so that means the rear bumper and everything else connected to this hitch rack must be pretty heavy duty.

This heavy dutieness is met two ways - number of contact points between the hitch rack (to be built) and the bumper is increased from the standard 1 to 3. This eliminates a single point of failure, provides better load distribution from the rack to the bumper and also increases stability. The second feature is how the load is transferred from the bumper to the frame. Each of the three receiver hitches makes contacts with the outer most (first) cross member of the frame. Additionally, the two bumper mounts make contact with the first two cross members AND are bolted to frame attachment points that also make contact with the first two cross members (using 5/8" grade 8 bolts). The overall effect is to increase load distribution throughout the frame and maximize strength.

We believe we have met this goal. We decided to do an informal stress test - using just the center-most receiver tube on the bumper. We inserted a 55" (or so) piece of 2" tubing, about 8" in, and then I stood on the other end of it. Do the math - with my 270 pounds some 45" away from the bumper - that is quite a bit of torque on that thing. Well - then I gently jumped up and down (kinda) to see what it would do. We got some flex in the bumper, but nothing unexpected. The rest of the structure was absolutely solid. Given this test - we are confident that a rack that mounts through all 3 receiver hitches, which will also not stick out nearly so much from the trailer as the tube on our test, will perform well beyond expectations (:

In other news - the bumper is rusty yellow because it is made from some c-channel scrap my buddy had lying around. We cut to size, then welded on some side plates to give it a solid look from the side - and grinded it all down smooth. This is the only piece of scrap metal in the whole trailer (:

Bumper, including the frame mounts that are welded on to the bumper (but not the ones welded on to the frame) comes in right about 50 pounds. If you look at the pictures and see how solid this thing is - you have to feel sorry for anyone that rear ends this thing (:

We're now working on the floor - 1/8" thick aluminum sheet metal. We have cut to length - now we need to cut to width and notch out the sides to fit around the vertical posts and d-rings welded on to the floor. (;

Cheers!
td
bumper_1_web.jpg   bumper_2_web.jpg   bumper_3_web.jpg  
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Unread 07-19-2008, 10:39 PM   #75
Keelentime
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Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product...
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