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Unread 06-17-2008, 03:43 PM   #16
waterboarder
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Today's pictures - including mockup of remaining frame

Well, I need to finish up the structural framing. I needed to play with some ideas on how to do things, so I decided to do a mockup in wood for easier visualization. Pictures are attached. Some of the things that came out of this mockup:

1). By implementing removable cross-bars instead of skinned walls between compartments, I can easily turn three separate compartments (main cargo, gas & water, and miscellaneous) into one big cargo compartment. Doing so allows the size of the main cargo compartment to be lengthened by about 30" upon demand. This will be useful if I need to carry larger things (use it more like a utility trailer).

2). This idea requires the "floor" surface for one of the compartments to be removable. Doing the mockup allowed me to ensure that the shelf will be removable through the access door for that compartment. It works. Further, this gave me the idea that the shelf framing and removable cross-bars should all be made of aluminum, for easier handling. This is possible since they are not welded to the trailer anyway.

3). That idea caused me to think - well hell, why not make the removable shelf a build in table that can be accessed upon demand! It can be designed such that the removable cross bars can serve as table legs. I'll do it in such a way that the table can be free-standing, away from the trailer, and also easily mountable to the side of the trailer somewhere too.

Overall, I think the removable shelf / built-in table idea is pretty cool.

4). The mockup as shown allow me to put my 4.5" lights in the body of the trailer, rather than on the bumper. Still not sure if this is the way to go, but it sure seems like it. I'll investigate this further. My main issue is ensuring that someone can't just remove the pop-out lights and have access to the cargo bay. I think that can be solved by just doing a simply enclosure there.

5). That idea has impact on where to put electrical sockets. I may have room in the original location, but they may get moved to the bumper. We'll see.

6). In the process of working on this, I realized that I don't need to make a SCUBA tank rack at all. By welding on some tie-down points along the frame in the main cargo bay, SCUBA tanks can lay flat on the floor and then be secured via ratcheting tie-downs. They can also be used for other cargo in there. Overall, this is a more generic and therefore better solution to the problem.

7). Still need to figure out what to do in terms of a spare tire mount.

8). Developed concept of using thinner-wall steel tubing for certain frame elements and ribbing that only serves as sheet metal skin attachment points (saves weight).

9). Need to check into purchase of metal poles for awning. Need awning mount points on both sides of trailer. Be sure to angle for rain (need un-even polls).

10). Learned that the rear-door ramp idea may not work. May be too long to make easy access to the cargo bay possible.

11). Cross-bars that serve as table legs need to be slightly different sizes, so they can interlock. I can drill multiple holes, so table height is adjustable.

So, good ideas - good visualization - and now I can have a better idea of framing materials and piece sizes needed.

17_june_2008_1_web.jpg   17_june_2008_2_web.jpg   17_june_2008_3_web.jpg   17_june_2008_4_web.jpg  
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Unread 06-18-2008, 11:06 AM   #17
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Texasdog,

Came across this write up and I've really enjoyed it. It’s become a part of my compulsive forum browsing addiction. Thanks!

The project looks great. After reading it I find myself thinking about trailer’s, axles, and the likes during the day…. I’ve seen RV’s that placed the fresh water tank above the axles, my last one had this. Have you thought about utilizing this space on your trailer? It would be a great way to haul plenty of fresh water, or even fuel if you decided to an excursion.

Again, thanks for the write up!
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Unread 06-18-2008, 12:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingreen99 View Post
Texasdog,Came across this write up and I've really enjoyed it. It’s become a part of my compulsive forum browsing addiction. Thanks! The project looks great. After reading it I find myself thinking about trailer’s, axles, and the likes during the day…. I’ve seen RV’s that placed the fresh water tank above the axles, my last one had this. Have you thought about utilizing this space on your trailer? It would be a great way to haul plenty of fresh water, or even fuel if you decided to an excursion.
Hey, thanks (:

Well, I considered having built-in tanks for water and gas and using pumps to get their contents where needed, but I got talked out of it. Built-in tanks are limiting to some degree for a couple of reasons. First - they're non-portable. They are where they are. Jugs on the other hand can be carried around to wherever they're needed. Also, and maybe more importantly, when it comes time to filling up, built-in tanks require the trailer to be near the source. With jugs, you can take them to wherever the source is. Third - you have to carry built-ins whether you need them or not. With jugs, if you don't need them, take them out (:

So, I considered built-in tanks, but not specifically above the axle area, I was going to put them somewhere else. There's only a few inches between the axle and the frame anyway - plus you have to remember that I have an adjustable axle on this trailer. I can move it forward or backward, depending on load. Also, I've designed it so that I can put the axle on in a spring over or spring under configuration. It makes a 5" difference in ground clearance and gives me an option if I am going over some really rough stuff. Putting any kind of tank in that space would have really complicated this.

However, I certainly had the requirement to carry fuel and water as one of my design criteria. I designed the "lower deck" to be just tall enough (19") to fit my gas jugs/cans, and its width of 16.5" is just wide enough to fit the gas jugs/cans. I can fit 5 jugs/cans of gas or water as needed - with the mix being dependent on my purpose. If I need more than I can carry in that designated area, I can always throw a more more in the main cargo area, or someplace else on the trailer. However, that first area is the primary place and will have jugs of something there no matter what (:

Cheers!
td
17_june_2008_5.jpg  
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Unread 06-20-2008, 02:20 AM   #19
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OK - today's pictures are attached. Some of the mockup from above is gone, and replaced with real metal. Found a problem after fitting one of the boxes - it seems the sides are a bit bowed, rather than perfectly straight, so they do not mate up with my perfectly straight posts - well - perfectly. Not sure what to do about it at the moment. Will be a problem for tomorrow or the next day.
19_june_2008_web_1.jpg   19_june_2008_web_2.jpg   19_june_2008_web_3.jpg   19_june_2008_web_4.jpg   19_june_2008_web_5.jpg  

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Unread 06-20-2008, 08:25 AM   #20
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You're killing me, Dog; it looks great.

And stop saying "Jugs"; it reminds me of Raquel Welch.

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Unread 06-20-2008, 09:41 AM   #21
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Would heavy boxes mounted on the top pose a stability issue at all?
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Last edited by FPKites; 06-20-2008 at 09:41 AM.. Reason: edited to actually sound like english :D
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Unread 06-20-2008, 12:20 PM   #22
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I'm guessing that he's going to be mounting something heavier under them.
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Unread 06-20-2008, 01:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
Would heavy boxes mounted on the top pose a stability issue at all?
I hope not.

The ones on the side balance each other out - and relative to the weight of the rest of the steels, they're not that much - as far as I can tell.

I'm not really planning on loading them up with heavy stuff either. One is for tents, sleeping bags, air matts, and that kind of stuff. The one on the other side is cook stove and other cooking stuff. The one in the front is for tools, recover gear, etc. That'll be the heavy one - at least heavier than the other two.


I guess we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck (:

Quote:
And stop saying "Jugs"; it reminds me of Raquel Welch.
Funny you should say - last night I had a strange dream where I was in a building and someone asked me to come into a room and there was a TV show going on - like one of those Oprah, or Sally or other BS talk shows going n and I was asked to comment on a women's breast job. So she showed her huge tits and I said, "Well, I don't want to be offensive or anything - but honestly, those are way too big - they look like some kind of deformity" and the woman cried. Go figure.

Anyway - you might be interested to know that this trailer is designed so that, if you wanted to, you could sleep in it. Take out all the cargo, put in your air mattresses and sleeping bags, and close up the doors from the inside (I'll make them lock from the inside too). You can also sleep on top of it. It has a flat roof, and it's long enough (88") and wide enough (48"). I'm going to try to make some attachment points so that you can throw up a few polls and then throw a tarp over the top to make it somewhat tent-like. Not as fancy as one of those overland tents, but just an option in case the ground is really crappy or something.

Last edited by waterboarder; 06-20-2008 at 06:50 PM..
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Unread 06-20-2008, 01:34 PM   #24
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Makes perfect sense, thanks
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Unread 06-20-2008, 02:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texasdog View Post
Anyway - you might be interested to know that this trailer is designed so that, if you wanted to, you could sleep in it. Take out all the cargo, put in your air mattresses and sleeping bags, and close up the doors from the inside (I'll make them lock from the inside too).
Now, wouldn't the perp who steals the trailer be surprised when he gets it home, opens it, and you pop out with a 357 pointed at him...

I like the tent on top thingie. Look here; new company.
http://anacondacampers.com/
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Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.- Helen Keller
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Unread 06-20-2008, 06:50 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Hilldweller View Post
Now, wouldn't the perp who steals the trailer be surprised when he gets it home, opens it, and you pop out with a 357 pointed at him...
Not only that - I am building a secret escape hatch into the floor, so that if someone locks me in, I can still get out (seriously).
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Unread 06-20-2008, 08:40 PM   #27
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Well, I made what I HOPE is my last trip to Alaska Steel today. At this point, the only major expenses I have left are batteries, some misc. electrical stuff, and anything I do in terms of painting. I'm scared of the painting costs - they may push me up to the $4500 range and I wanted to be at $4000 max. Current list of expenses is below.
trailer_cost.jpg  

Last edited by waterboarder; 06-26-2008 at 03:26 PM..
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Unread 06-24-2008, 05:41 PM   #28
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What gauge is .125? 14ga? also why is one 120" sheet $235.45 and the other $117.73?
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Unread 06-26-2008, 03:23 PM   #29
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What gauge is .125? 14ga? also why is one 120" sheet $235.45 and the other $117.73?
I dunno about gauges. It's an eight inch (:

As for the pricing...hm....let me check my records here. OK, typo on my part. The $117.73 one is 0.063, not 0.125 - so that's why it is cheaper (: Also, that next line is also 0.063 - I have updated the spreadsheet above (:

In other news - finish welding on all structural tubing is complete!!!! I'm now in the price of grinding welds smooth as necessary so the sheet metal lies flat.

Also, yesterday and today I have (or currently am doing) applied POR-15 to the u-bolts, shackle mounts and springs, and painted over that with Rustoleum rattle can (Hammered Copper). I have some POR-15 left over still, so I might do the wheel hubs too. We'll see.

FWIW, the .125 sheet is for the floor and the .063 is for the sides and top.
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Unread 06-26-2008, 09:18 PM   #30
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Tongue tube in place

Trailer now has an adjustable tongue. It got two 2" receiver tubes welded on to the first two main cross-members of the frame. They can be used with a detachable and adjustable 2" tube tongue. This provides the following benefits:

a). Tongue can be removed completely for security purposes (hard to tow a trailer with no tongue, coupler, etc.). Bolt holes for tongue tube can be occupied with standard hitch locks, making it hard for someone to attach their own tongue to the trailer.

b). Tongue can be locked into different positions, depending on one's current situation - highway use, off-road use, storage, on a ferry, or whatever.

c). Different length tongues can be prepared, with each tongue meeting a particular purpose. One practical use of this is for use on a ferry - where the charge depends on overall vehicle length. Using a short tongue, you can reduce your length, this reducing the money you pay for the ferry transport (think Alaska Marine Highway System). When off-roading, maybe you have a particular type of trail that calls or a longer or shorter tongue than you usually use, etc.

Pictures are attached. They show the receiver tube welded on (6" tubes were $22 each), with a sample tongue in place. The sample tongue is just a piece of tubing that we had sitting around - it's not the actual one I intend to use.

Also - had some POR-15 left over, so I put it on the u-bolts and the axle, both of which I will paint tomorrow.
tongue_1.jpg   tongue_2.jpg   tongue_3.jpg  
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