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Unread 01-17-2009, 08:05 PM   #16
MoparToYou
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I am going to be using this trailer for hauling a total of four ATVs, three motorcycles, a Jeep, and a Dodge Challenger (not all at the same time obviously).

The swiveling D-rings are likely the weakest tie down points on the trailer, because all they have is a 1' square steel backing plate on the bottom side of the trailer, and they are not hooked to the frame cross members at all. There just wasn't anyplace to put them where they would function best, and still be bolted to a frame cross member.

Each row of e-track is bolted to frame cross members in twelve places, and also has another 44 1-1/4" lag bolts holding it to the trailer decking (a total of 112 bolts holding down the e-tracks).

There are also four short sections of D-track that are bolted to the trailer decking, and are adjustable mounting points for a set of Track Star wheel chocks that are used when hauling the motorcycles.

I plan on using the e-track and the swiveling D-rings to tie down the motorcycles and ATVs. The clips for the e-track and the swiveling D-rings themselves are rated at 6,000 lbs. The e-track isn't going anywhere, but even the less impressively mounted swiveling D-rings should be strong enough for the ATVs and motorcycles. I will only use the pockets in the rub rails along the sides of the trailer for tieing down the Jeep and Challenger.

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Unread 01-17-2009, 10:43 PM   #17
Silverton34
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I'm going through the same thing with my new trailer. I really don't want to use the tie down strap hooks into the stake pockets but there is little choice. I thought about D rings in the floor and bolting them to large steel plates or similar under the wood deck. I also thought about a loop of chain or something around the stake pocket so the strap hook had a straight pull. You could just attach the strap hook to the small loop of chain through the stake pocket.

I wish I would have paid the extra money for a steel deck with very solid D rings welded into the floor.
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Unread 01-18-2009, 08:40 AM   #18
wilson1010
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Mopar, you're lucky you got that penetrating oil to work after the Thompsons. That stuff is crap. It has silicone in it which usually blocks the natural protectants or any subsequent treatment from filling up the wood and once its on there its your only choice for life.

I think you've hit on the dilemma of an aluminum trailer with a wood deck. You will be able to tie your rigs down so they won't move around, but in an accident they may not stay with the trailer.

Here's the situation. When you use a yellow ratchet strap, you can't really put much force on the rig. Certainly not enough to tear the D rings out of a deck board. They have a mechanical advantage of about 3:1 to 5:1. So if your a big guy and can get your weight behind it, you might put 750lb of force on the strap. If the ratchet is under your rig you might only be putting 300lb of force on. But once the rig tries to move (like when the trailer stops against a tree) you could have 5000lb of force to content with, or even a lot more. And, your atv's won't be a problem. I say go with what you have installed now.

BTW, you trailer looks real good.





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Last edited by wilson1010; 01-18-2009 at 08:52 AM.. Reason: Forgot I had this cool photo
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Unread 01-18-2009, 02:42 PM   #19
MoparToYou
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Wilson,
look at those pictures of my trailer and you can see where the Thompson's water seal was put on under the e-tracks in the first picture. Notice the size and shape of the end of the treated area at the back end of the right hand e-track. Then look at that same place in the second picture and you can see exactly how much the Thompson's water seal prevented the Penafin from being absorbed. There is an identical shaped area where there has been less penetration by the second water treatment. After seeing that I was real glad I had gone to the extra effort to be very careful to only put the Thompson's water treatment directly where the e-tracks would go, because it would have been much easier to just do the whole trailer with Thompson's, and then try to do it with the Penafin, ... but like you said, that would not have worked. I think the trailer turned out pretty good, all things considered.

That is one crazy picture you posted, and it shows why you need good tie down points. I'll bet the owner of that Dodge pickup was glad it was strapped down tight.

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Unread 01-18-2009, 03:01 PM   #20
wilson1010
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Your trailer looks good and also looks like it will be around a long time.

The owner of that truck did not have an attitude of gratitude. Rather, he was on the way to tell me that he was going to kick my a$$ if I didn't delete the photos. Since he was a repo guy with a bad attitude and a lot of experience with conflict and since I am a pudgy 62 year old with a bad back, I opted for a strategy of pointing out the presence of the police officer nearby and promising him that my friends in the Hamilton County Justice Center would make his stay, however brief, a hellish nightmare. It ended up OK, but I was grateful for the police presence.
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Unread 01-18-2009, 10:37 PM   #21
h2ojeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoparToYou View Post
. The trailer has to be parked outside beside the garage where the water from the eves of the house drips on the trailer, so it gets wet every time it storms, and stays wet most of the winter due to snow melting on the roof and dripping on the trailer. This is the fourth trailer I've owned, and all of the others had the planking start to shrink and warp a small amount, even though they were also made of pressure treated wood.
If it is your forth trailer, I would look for a different parking place or put gutters on the garage. Your pressure treated wood should last a long time. Along with gutters, you also might try parking with the front substantially higher so the trailer and wood would drain. If it is not too difficult, you might consider taking the floor up and make sure each plank is on the trailer with the wood grain (rings of the tree) curving up. That is to say that when you look at the end of each board, the rings from the original tree need to go on the trailer so that the curve is up. Oddly, if the curve is down, the grains in the wood will actually hold moisture like a bowl and rot out sooner. finally, (i learn this the hard way) keep the trailer clean of leaves, mud,etc; anything that will keep the trailer from drying. As to shrink and warp, a lot of that is natural. Having built my own, I cut and fit my with great detail, and warping just has not happened. Good luck.
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Unread 01-19-2009, 11:35 PM   #22
tjTerry
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Any Home deck sealant from home depot except thompsons. I used the same on my redwood deck and then my trailer. that is what is designed for , it works. The stain type that penatrates the wood and also colors it.
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Unread 01-20-2009, 01:11 PM   #23
roger24
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Some products will also make the deck slicker than snot when it's wet, so careful footing is required if you are walking on it while it's wet from the rain or washing it
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Unread 01-25-2009, 09:06 PM   #24
nmd106
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Anyone used TREX decking? That new composite decking?
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Unread 01-26-2009, 06:18 AM   #25
wilson1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmd106 View Post
Anyone used TREX decking? That new composite decking?
I'm guessing that you would need a different joist structure than most trailers have because dimensional lumber would probably have a better shear strength. Having said that, the Trex would be nice to walk on since it has good traction even when wet.
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Unread 03-05-2010, 07:09 PM   #26
jeep4alex
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Howdy folks,
Another use for boiled linseed oil.... I just rubbed some on the factory fender flares of my 06TJ.
They were dull and weathered from winter weather. Looks like brand new
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Unread 03-15-2010, 02:12 PM   #27
Ross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rural-Assault View Post
Your cheapest route would be to coat it good with some spent motor oil. Never tried this method but I've heard of people getting good results from it.

It works but if it get wet it is slippery, feel on my butt yesterday loading one.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:55 PM   #28
Aasen4
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trailer decking wood treatment

Check out permachink from Redmond, Wa,
all natural and the best wood treatments with longevity around.
Had Log Home business for 25 years with family, as well as building furniture, musical instruments and decking trailers. There products are by far the best we've seen and used.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 07:32 PM   #29
plym49
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Another vote for the used motor oil. Plus the additives in the oil keep the critters from deciding to take a bite out of it.

If you park your trailer on a slant, the water from the eaves and melting snow will slide off the side. Place some boards under the wheels on the house side so that the trailer has a good slant away from the house.

Old motor oil can be applied with a sprayer.
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Unread 02-14-2013, 04:14 AM   #30
surfacres
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Hi friend! I suggest you to visit surfacerestoration.com; there you will find TWP-Total Wood Preservative. It resists water penetration, prevents UV cracking, resists mildew & mold, prevents freeze-thaw damage, will not peel or flake and prevents wood from turning gray & weathered.
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