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Unread 11-23-2009, 09:35 PM   #31
roger24
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for straps, I went this route:

LEDTrailerLights.com - Mac's Custom Tiedowns

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Unread 01-03-2010, 09:32 PM   #32
Marctwayne
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We can belly ache about axle or frame all day. Axle strap it, then take a few more straps and put some tension on the frame to account for the suspension travel. If the stupid blond on her cell phone darts around you to be the first in line at the light and you lock it up... It is better to be safe than sorry. 4 points is law 6 is over building it. We like when we here manufacturers say its over built so fallow up on your end!
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[QUOTE=my-jeep-earl;6694423]It does look alot better when the Jeep is "ugly side up" though! :hahaha::teehee:[/QUOTE]
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Unread 01-14-2010, 02:52 PM   #33
PeteC
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One thing that has been missing in most of this debate is the tow rig and trailer.

I have towed my Jeep on a trailer behind quite a few vehicle. With each vehicle comes different challanges.

When using a 2006 Ram 2500 I was able to tow very comfortably with just a tongue on ball hitch (proper rating of course) and the Jeep secured by the axles. Any suspension sway from the Jeep was minimized by the weight of the Truck.

When I towed with a 2007 Jeep Commander (same trailer and Jeep) I tried securing by the axles but the suspension travel from the Jeep was downright scary. And the tongue on ball caused a lot of sag. 62 mph was about top end for this set up. To remedy this, we added a weight distribution hitch, but still had a lot of sway fromt eh Jeep suspension. So, with the type of hook bundle WCoon posted and the factory slots in the frame, I secured the load from the frame. My ratchet straps allow me to compress the suspension far enough so that there is little if any suspension travel under normal driving conditions. The length of the trailer adn the weight distribution hitch allows me to park the Jeep in a position for plenty of space to the corners for tie down. This set up keeps the Jeep very secure and allows very comfortable towing even at 85 mph (got up that high on a clear, dry e-way just once to see how it handled) behind the Commander.

I towed for 2 years behind a Ram reg cab 1500 with that set up with now problems.

I now have a 2010 Ram 1500 quad and intend to continue securing my load the same way.


My point in all of this is you have to set up according to what you have. If you are using a 1-ton duelly to pull a 30 ft goose neck, you will probably never feel the movement of the Jeeps with the axles tied down. At least I know my friends don't, even when one the of Jeeps came loose. (All good, we spotted it and it was re-secured)




A word about the straps though. I tried crossing the straps once and did not realize they came into contact with some metal, not a good thing. One of the rear straps was sliced. I felt the Jeep move and slowed cautiously. I have to replace the strap and learned my lesson. From now on I am very careful to check where my straps go. I also inspect them every time I use them, in fact, I will probably be replacing them this spring.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 05:27 PM   #34
jonwood
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With 3 different trucks with combination of empty canopy and camper and a van and a motorhome and 4 different jeeps I have always gone with chain and binders to the axles with no problems.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 12:13 AM   #35
Nmhancock
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I have a ? involving this issue, im not 100% sure if this is the thread for it, but here it goes.

I trailered my jeep to the badlands in attica from my home in valparaiso (2 hour ride). On the way down did it from the axles and the wind was horrible. Made the truck and trailer sway like a hula dancer...needless to say it was white knuckle for a good portion of highway driving.

upon loading up i decided to try the other method and went to the chassis. I didnt bring it all the way to the bump stops but it was darn close. The ride home was considerably more controllable and only experienced one case of sway and even that was hardly noticeable.

but now my suspension is sagging considerably, approximately 1 inch and i was wondering if the springs will return to their memory, or if anyone else experienced this issue?
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Unread 01-21-2010, 12:59 AM   #36
wilson1010
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First, the sway is caused by the location of the rig on the trailer. You have to experiment a little, but usually too far back the whole thing sways, too far forward the tongue weight pushes the nose of your tow rig up in the air and affects steering - usually. Just find the right place on the trailer and screw down a treated 2x4 in front of your wheels to mark the perfect spot.

Second, you can't bend the springs by tying the rig down to the bump stops or otherwise.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 01:53 AM   #37
Nmhancock
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yeah i noticed that locating the rig a further forward did help the sway, but did not cure it completely. sway was still noticeable from the wind blowing against the side of the rig and the jeep and trailer would begin to twist more than sway. That is the only way i can explain it.

If i cannot effect ride height by the stress of strapping it down, then why am i measuring a 3/4 inch drop in ride height than before i trailered it? My springs are noticeably compressed as well. I purchased the jeep with the lift and it is a 97 so god knows how old they are.

Anyway, just a thought. Don't feel like hijacking this thread
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Unread 01-21-2010, 04:54 AM   #38
wilson1010
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I was thinking about that and I thought we'd see if someone who has more suspension experience than me weighs in. Having said that, I have lifted a couple of jeeps with off the shelf lift kits and sometimes the parts don't seat so well at first. Some of those springs seem to need to be rotated in order to seat well, so it may be that the springs moved around a little. But let's see what others have to say.
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Unread 01-23-2010, 08:12 PM   #39
Marctwayne
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Not likely that your springs where compressed. Nevertheless, age could be a factor and we don't know if we are talking a 2" lift or a monster 8" lift. If you compressed say 5-6" of an 8" lift you may see some sag that wont rebound. There is no need to go to such extreme though. Sag will probably be the lest of you problems. The whole suspension system would, over time, be adversely affected. Alignment, shock life, joints the whole nine yards. strap the frame and hunker it down just enough to make the trailer and Jeep move and bounce together and your good. Leave the wear and tear for the trail, lord knows there will be enough.
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[QUOTE=my-jeep-earl;6694423]It does look alot better when the Jeep is "ugly side up" though! :hahaha::teehee:[/QUOTE]
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Unread 01-25-2010, 05:31 PM   #40
roger24
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scroll down about 15 threads, and there's this one too.....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f104/...railer-739994/
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Unread 02-02-2010, 08:21 AM   #41
YJames90
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I have this front and rear

and chaines ( not pictured ) going from the side of the trailer up over the leaf springs to the other side on the front and rear
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Unread 02-02-2010, 09:15 AM   #42
rivalarrival
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I know it's been mentioned, that crossing the straps/chains is the preferred method, but I'd like to know why. In playing around with linkages, it seems that long, crossed links allow more movement. In the above photo, it would seem that the crossed straps would allow far more "roll" (like an airplane) than straight straps to adjacent corners.

I'm not trying to advocate either method right now, I'd just like to know if there is some reasoning for it... Aside from using up as much of the strap as possible...
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Unread 02-02-2010, 09:48 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivalarrival View Post
I know it's been mentioned, that crossing the straps/chains is the preferred method, but I'd like to know why. In playing around with linkages, it seems that long, crossed links allow more movement. In the above photo, it would seem that the crossed straps would allow far more "roll" (like an airplane) than straight straps to adjacent corners.

I'm not trying to advocate either method right now, I'd just like to know if there is some reasoning for it... Aside from using up as much of the strap as possible...
Great question. I don't like ratchet straps and I don't crisscross them when I use them. So, maybe I should just keep my mouth shut. But, that's no fun so here goes.

The angle on a crossed strap is flatter, or more acute than a strap that is attached directly below the D ring. Therefore, the ratchet can deliver more compression to the spring because each rotation of the ratchet lowers the rig less than if the angle was greater.
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Unread 02-02-2010, 10:02 PM   #44
Marctwayne
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Yeah...
You may find that for some reason or another a crossed pattern is slightly better. I'll leave that to the engineers in the group. What I will say is, do not cross nylon or polyester straps. They rub on each other generating significant heat and basically just destroy each other. More so if you hook to the frame as opposed to the axle. If you want them crossed use chain. The straps are nice, light weight, easy to use. You have to baby them though and they will not last. Straps are for those with more money than patience.
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[QUOTE=my-jeep-earl;6694423]It does look alot better when the Jeep is "ugly side up" though! :hahaha::teehee:[/QUOTE]
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Unread 02-02-2010, 10:26 PM   #45
rivalarrival
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson1010 View Post
Great question. I don't like ratchet straps and I don't crisscross them when I use them. So, maybe I should just keep my mouth shut. But, that's no fun so here goes.

The angle on a crossed strap is flatter, or more acute than a strap that is attached directly below the D ring. Therefore, the ratchet can deliver more compression to the spring because each rotation of the ratchet lowers the rig less than if the angle was greater.
That would seem a valid point for ratchets, but not for chain binders - a 10-year-old girl can lift a Jeep with a chain binder, can't she?
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