Bear with me here....

**Dr. Marneaus** · 01-01-2008, 04:45 PM

2005 Dodge Magnum, R/T.

350 HP 390 ft/lbs torque.

Rated towing capacity, 3800 pounds.

Would It be possible to flat tow the jeep, using a tow bar, with this?

I am clueless about towing. All I know is that the jeep weighs less than 3800 pounds and that the magnum can tow up to 3800 pounds.

I figure with a tow bar that things like tounge weight dont really apply?

the only reason I ask is because insted of getting a new jeep, I'll probably be getting the magnum, and keeping my jeep, which doesnt even need towing at the moment, but I'm just curious.

LlamaJeep · 01-01-2008, 07:29 PM

If it weighs less than the towing capacity, than you can tow it. If it's just a flat tow you could probably go above the rating because theres no tongue weight but it's not really recommended.

**NEVERSWEAT** · 01-01-2008, 07:30 PM

Hey DR.
Let me see.. you are talking flat tow as in use a bar connected to the front of the Jeep.. Yes is your answer. The 2008 Towing guide, as you stated, says 3800 lbs. You say your jeep is 3800 lbs. I am thinking if you have worked (modded) your Jeep at all, weights are gonna go up. Here is the age old question. If it is over the 3800 lbs. do you tow or not? This question comes up every day more than once in the RV.net pages.. should I or can I? If you have already weighed the Jeep great..if not, do it. The ratings are 3800 lbs. If you want to stay dead on compliant with what the book states and it's over, well you don't tow. If you are willing to fudge by a couple hunnies do it. What would I do. If it's a few hunnies over I drive it. Here is my mantra... I make sure everything on my truck is good to go to the inth degree. That is the way I roll. The rig will have no problems with a couple H's over. The concern which is considerable is if something happens in the way of an accident. If you are over there is the risk of you getting written up.. the worst case scenario is always the most obvious.. somebody takes a dirt nap.
Not intended to be negative, or scare you. I want you to know minimum concerns and maximum risks. Now here is something passed along by a CHP partner who wheels with me. It may not pertain to you being in NV but if you cross the line there is a remote possibility some CHP with way too much time on their hands could be lurking. Believe me it affects us all who pull, especially heavy. More of these Chippies are learning more about vehicle capabilities as pertaining to CCC, towing limits and GCVWR's. The last one is the maximum combined weight you are allowed driving between your tow vehicle and the object being towed whether it's a trailer, Jeep in tow etc. If you need more PM me.

**Dr. Marneaus** · 01-01-2008, 07:50 PM

I aint worried so much about all the special legal limits yet, just about the vehicles ability. I have no question about the car's drive train being able to handle it, its the same as any hemi powered dodge ram, i am worried about it's suspension and breaking ability.

Obviously with a tow bar there is no real constant load on the suspension, as there is no real tongue weight, but about the cars ability to stop itself, and the weight of the jeep.

The car is rated to tow 3800, but that might be with a trailer that has breaks?

Also, as stated, the curb weight of a wrangler is 3100 pounds. thats 700 less than the cars capacity. However, it's got bumpers and tires and whatnot. 700 pounds of add ons? Prolly not.

Either way, say it is 700 pounds, the car SHOULD be able to handle 3800 just fine, as that is its stated limit.

Seeing as it should be within the car's ability....I guess I just wanna know how one would use a magnum to tow a jeep, especially with the height difference between the two.

**NEVERSWEAT** · 01-01-2008, 08:07 PM

I am liking what your thinking. 3100 lbs. is perfect. I am thinking your rig has two/haul? That also helps with how it pulls, acelerates and decelerates. Yes a trailer with brakes is ideal but not the end all to answers. It most likely would put you over too. The suspension should not come into play as there is no CCC to deal with. Just towing issues
Forgive me if this is already common knowledge. Place rear bumper Dodge to front bumper of Jeep. Lining them up as close to one another as possible will always be your best bet. I am guessing your hitch is a flexable type? It will self adjust through dips and stuff? Do not know what they are called as I do not tow that way...yet. Your receiver itself. You can turn the ball it over and use the it on the other side. Fudging with washers could get you closer yet as long as you have thr threads to tighten it down significantly. I will be watching this thread progress because I too want to learn more about towing behind. I will be doing this behind my fifthwheel in another year or so.

wilson1010 · 01-01-2008, 08:30 PM

Well, the whole issue is braking. That Dodge will drag the Jeep around fine and when you are going down the road you may not even know it is there. Its just when you go to stop that will tell the tale. I flat towed my Jeep for a while with my K2500 Burb and it was absolutely no problem to stop. But thats a bigassed vehicle compared to the Dodge.

I say take it for a spin and see how well it stops. To me thats the only issue you will face.

PS, many states require brakes on anything more than 3000 pounds being towed. The RV guys have endless info on this stuff cause they are always dragging something around behind those RV's.

**Dr. Marneaus** · 01-02-2008, 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilson1010

Well, the whole issue is braking. That Dodge will drag the Jeep around fine and when you are going down the road you may not even know it is there. Its just when you go to stop that will tell the tale. I flat towed my Jeep for a while with my K2500 Burb and it was absolutely no problem to stop. But thats a bigassed vehicle compared to the Dodge.

I say take it for a spin and see how well it stops. To me thats the only issue you will face.

PS, many states require brakes on anything more than 3000 pounds being towed. The RV guys have endless info on this stuff cause they are always dragging something around behind those RV's.

Yeah, my main concern is the braking ability. However, like I said before, unless the magnums with the tow package have some specific brake upgrade, then mine should be able to stop with 3800 pounds behind it.

Min does not have the tow package, but all of that can be picked up for a few hundred bucks.

**Dr. Marneaus** · 01-02-2008, 10:17 AM

so, what type of braking system can be installed in a vehicle being towed 4 down?

wilson1010 · 01-02-2008, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus

so, what type of braking system can be installed in a vehicle being towed 4 down?

I don't think you will need a supplemental system, but trust me, there is a whole world of this stuff out there. The RV guys are like nuts to tow stuff behind their Rv's and its almost always a flat tow. One of my buddies (older than me of course) tows his goddam Caddy behind a diesel pusher.

Don't go out and buy any of this stuff, but the RV sites have a wealth of info on flat towing.

Here's the Apollo by Blue Ox (big in the RV tow bar business):

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-tow-bars-dollies/blue-ox-apollo.htm?source=google&gclid=COuz8ffQ2JACFSciIgo dkFo_Xg

Here's a link for more of this junk: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/13200019.cfm

PeteC · 01-03-2008, 08:50 AM

There are remotely activated braking systems available. I would seriously look into one before towing behind a Magnum.

(I have had 2 Magnums, 05 SXT and 06 RT, never towed behind them)

I have had an 07 Jeep Commander that I did tow behind. It was rated for about 6500# capacity. I tried flat towing my 00 TJ and did not like it. Mostly because of the lack of good braking ability. Towing the TJ on a trailer was a breeze. Electric brakes (w/controller) and regular hitch, 67 mph was good. Add a sway bar and load leveling hitch and I was comfortable at 80 mph (straight stretch, light traffic, a few miles, just to see what it was capable of).

Your Magnum has braking set up for a certain weight. It has a curb weight around 4000#, adding the TJ behind is is almost doubling that weight. I don't know specifics, but I doubt the brakes were designed to safely stop a load twice the weight of the vehicle.

If you read the owners manual of any vehicle out there it will tell you the towing capacity when "PROPERLY EQUIPPED". In the case of my Commander, the 6500# capacity was based on having trailer brakes and a brake controller to activate said brakes. Same as the 08 Dodge Ram I have now. Full capacity available only when properly equipped.

(This is the same on my 38' Class A RV that I tow my Jeep behind. Fortunatly, at 17,500# dry weight my RV tows and stops just fine without any help) My dad runs a Brake Buddy in his KJ when towing behind his RV (a bit smaller than mine).

Some (more nad more every year) states require a supplemental braking system on anything over a certain wieight. This is where the "Brake Buddy" type systems come into play. These systems are usually remotely acivated via a radio signal. I have also heard of electrically connected systems. They sit on the floor and have an actuated arm that operates the brake pedal.

As mentioned above, the RV sites have a lot of insight on this question.

For my personal preference, I would get a remote braking system for the TJ.

And then of course there is the type of tow bar you get as well.

I have a Blue Ox, self alinging, self locking tow bar. It inserts into the hitch.
There are also the A-frame hitches. Cheaper but harder to hook up because the hitch must align with the ball.
Have seen quite a few people kicking the hitches while I just get close and get it done.

**BeachinXJ** · 01-03-2008, 01:19 PM

Personally, based on lots of towing experience, I would never tow something the same weight or more of the tow vehicle. Especially without a trailer with proper brakes. You are just asking for a world of trouble and hurt for the people around you.